Members RoadRanger Posted April 12, 2011 Members Share Posted April 12, 2011 Any recommendations for a good monitor amp for my SM12Vs?If you could get the other sub now I'd get a GX-5 for the two subs and two tops and move the GX-3 to monitor duty. The problem is that with two subs on one channel the GX-5 puts a reasonable 350w into each but with only one it puts 500w into it which is pushing your luck . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tim_7string Posted April 12, 2011 Author Members Share Posted April 12, 2011 Okay, cool. I was planning to do that very thing: move the GX-3 to monitors, buy a GX-5 to run the two tops/two subs. Just wasn't sure if the GX-3 would still be better for that task and a different type of power amp would be better for the monitors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted April 12, 2011 Members Share Posted April 12, 2011 Just be a little careful with a GX-5 and 115V's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Unalaska Posted April 12, 2011 Members Share Posted April 12, 2011 With a GX5 using the crossover I'd have no problem with the 8 ohm output into 1 box of either sub or top. Yeah 500w is a little high but still, it's ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted April 12, 2011 Members Share Posted April 12, 2011 The PV118 subs which are rated 200w/400w program actually has a 300w driver (same as the Yamaha sub?) and really wake up at 500w - but I realize that I'm taking a chance with them and don't care that they could have a short life. Dunno about the Yamaha's but Peavey stuff seems to be conservative rated. I even have two pair of first edition PR10's which have a 100w rating on the label but have 200wrms LF drivers . They get pretty stoopid loud at 500w too but I really like to run them at 250-300w for safety - which is where those Yamaha tops should probably be powered if you want them to last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tim_7string Posted April 12, 2011 Author Members Share Posted April 12, 2011 The PV118 subs which are rated 200w/400w program actually has a 300w driver (same as the Yamaha sub?) and really wake up at 500w - but I realize that I'm taking a chance with them and don't care that they could have a short life. Dunno about the Yamaha's but Peavey stuff seems to be conservative rated. I even have two pair of first edition PR10's which have a 100w rating on the label but have 200wrms LF drivers . They get pretty stoopid loud at 500w too but I really like to run them at 250-300w for safety - which is where those Yamaha tops should probably be powered if you want them to last. Yeah, I definitely want the S115vs to last. From QSC's website, it says that it will power 700 watts through 4 ohms, so that means 350w per top and 350w per sub. Good for the subs, but not so good for the tops? Maybe I'd be better off just buying another GX-3 instead. I'd rather be conservative and safe than try to risk a blowout, especially with how much all of this is personally costing me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Rezrover Posted April 12, 2011 Members Share Posted April 12, 2011 Just get an IPR-1600, 7.125lbs, 300 watts at 8 ?'s, crossover for each channel, blue lights... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted April 12, 2011 Members Share Posted April 12, 2011 The GX-5 is ok, just don't pound it into the limiters. Just a little flashing of the limit LEDs is ok but no more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members badhabit Posted April 14, 2011 Members Share Posted April 14, 2011 Yeah, I definitely want the S115vs to last. From QSC's website, it says that it will power 700 watts through 4 ohms, so that means 350w per top and 350w per sub.Good for the subs, but not so good for the tops?Maybe I'd be better off just buying another GX-3 instead. I'd rather be conservative and safe than try to risk a blowout, especially with how much all of this is personally costing me. I think with caution, many speakers can handle the occasional peaks. I'm using a CrownXs1200 to power my FOH, and it's more power than I need or should probably use, as it's giving each cab 550 watts. However, I keep the gain down on the amp and watch my levels. I also run the low cut filter on my subs at 40 Hz. Something to consider is either getting an electronic crossover that has a 40 Hz low cut filter, or a 31 band equalizer that has similar, a low cut filter. It will tighten up the performance of your subs, as you won't be asking them or the amp to reproduce those really low sub freq. that are typically mush anyway. And remember to engage your mixer's HPF on all the channels that do not need to be in the subs, to reduce subwoofer rumble, like the vocal mics, guitar, drum mics except the kick of course and perhaps the floor tom. I do not HPF the bass guitar, the kick drum, the floor tom or the keys. Both the keys and bass guitar run direct. By using the channel strip HPF's, it will greatly reduce rumble in your subs. I could go into aux feeding the subs but that's probably not needed with your set-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tim_7string Posted April 16, 2011 Author Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 I think with caution, many speakers can handle the occasional peaks. I'm using a CrownXs1200 to power my FOH, and it's more power than I need or should probably use, as it's giving each cab 550 watts. However, I keep the gain down on the amp and watch my levels. I also run the low cut filter on my subs at 40 Hz. Something to consider is either getting an electronic crossover that has a 40 Hz low cut filter, or a 31 band equalizer that has similar, a low cut filter. It will tighten up the performance of your subs, as you won't be asking them or the amp to reproduce those really low sub freq. that are typically mush anyway. And remember to engage your mixer's HPF on all the channels that do not need to be in the subs, to reduce subwoofer rumble, like the vocal mics, guitar, drum mics except the kick of course and perhaps the floor tom. I do not HPF the bass guitar, the kick drum, the floor tom or the keys. Both the keys and bass guitar run direct. By using the channel strip HPF's, it will greatly reduce rumble in your subs. I could go into aux feeding the subs but that's probably not needed with your set-up. Unfortunately, I do not have HPF buttons on my particular powered mixer. Sounds like a great feature, though. I'll look into getting one that has that whenever I can afford to upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted April 16, 2011 Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 Is it time for the monthly "the amp's gain control doesn't reduce the maximum power output" rant again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members modulusman Posted April 16, 2011 Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 Behringer amps sound really good when the gain Knob is all the way down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members frankiefeedback Posted April 16, 2011 Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 The lack of a HPF was a bionehead move for the GX series. I agree, and have passed my comments onto those who have the power to impliment change... if they so choose to do so. It would be great to have a HPF even if it were at say a fixed one at maybe 40hZ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted April 16, 2011 Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 It would be great to have a HPF even if it were at say a fixed one at maybe 40hZ. Agreed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members badhabit Posted April 16, 2011 Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 Is it time for the monthly "the amp's gain control doesn't reduce the maximum power output" rant again? Hi RoadRanger, I must have skipped out on the last discussion about this. Please explain to me what the front control/s do. Crown states this in their description. "The front-panel controls shall be a power switch and a gray rotary level control (one per channel)." Crown is calling it a level control. How is that different from a gain control? I'm here to learn. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jlb Posted April 16, 2011 Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 This is a good read. It may help you. http://rane.com/note135.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted April 16, 2011 Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 This is a good read. It may help you.http://rane.com/note135.html"First, let's establish that power amplifier "level/volume/gain" controls are input sensitivity controls. (no matter how they are calibrated.) They are not power controls. They have absolutely nothing to do with output power. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted April 16, 2011 Members Share Posted April 16, 2011 Crown is calling it a level control. How is that different from a gain control? I'm here to learn. Thanks. The level control sets the amount of drive level required to achieve full rated power. If you turn it down 3dB and then increase the micxer by 2dB you are at exactly the same place power-wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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