Members thom Posted February 28, 2014 Members Share Posted February 28, 2014 Sorry if it's too OT, the other forums are even slower than this one, so here goes.I'm totally aware that this has been discussed a million times on the introwebs, but I'm curious if any of you mafhakkas have a first hand hand experiences with this...So let's say I've got my eye on a cheapo bass that only comes in a fugly color...What if I'd lightly sand it down, like really really lightly, just to give that poly finish some tooth for the new spray paint to hold on to...? Would that approach work? I'm not even going for a perfect factory-like paint job, I'll be more than happy if the original finish is covered up, even if it's with a somewhat rough, diy looking new finish.So should I expect the paint to easily chip or peel, or anything else that would give the bass a goofy look? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MesaMonster Posted February 28, 2014 Members Share Posted February 28, 2014 You should be fine. Use steelwool. Then go with some of that rock looking finish. Be like from the Flintstones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members travisbrowning Posted March 1, 2014 Members Share Posted March 1, 2014 I would use something a little heavier than steel wool, but yeah it should be fine. Try your best to sand down past most of the poly clear, it's not too tough, depending on the color of the current finish it might change the look of the paint your spraying over with a little, but it shouldn't be a huge deal. I would also spray a few coats of nitro clear over it after you do the color coats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hangwire Posted March 1, 2014 Members Share Posted March 1, 2014 If you can only do Home Depot or Lowe 's for the supplies, get a sandpaper sampler pack so you can go over it with a rougher grade then a finer grade to make sure it's even . Pay attention to the spray paint directions with overlapping coats and distance from guitar to spray to minimize running drips via a few light coats. Then a few coats of "deft" nitro over to to seal and protect and finish the job. If you have a garage string the body up Saturday morning after sanding and follow time dry directions and you will be done late sunday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hangwire Posted March 1, 2014 Members Share Posted March 1, 2014 ... If you do a Metallic spray like when I did a copper, those generally can't take a top coat of nitro as it already has shiney stuff mixed in FYI You can see how it looks with the SG Jr I did here:https://m.facebook.com/MaKEguitarsAndrew?id=421356081312150&refsrc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&_rdr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members travisbrowning Posted March 1, 2014 Members Share Posted March 1, 2014 hangwire wrote:... If you do a Metallic spray like when I did a copper, those generally can't take a top coat of nitro as it already has shiney stuff mixed in FYI You can see how it looks with the SG Jr I did here: https://m.facebook.com/MaKEguitarsAndrew?id=421356081312150&refsrc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&_rdr I'm pretty sure you can still spray a clear coat over metallic finishes. Or at least I've done it haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hangwire Posted March 2, 2014 Members Share Posted March 2, 2014 It got really cloudy and water spotty looking in the copper- I sanded it and did another coat of paint to get it looking good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 I've got a Squier Bass VI here with a polyurethane finish that I'm thinking about spraying nitro over. I'd rather not have to sand it if I can avoid it, so I may just try using B-I-N shellac primer straight over the existing finish as-is. Shellac sticks to anything, and it works great as a primer for nitrocellulose lacquer - that's what I used under the lacquer on my sea foam green Musicmaster / Duo Sonic. I can't guarantee it will work because I've never tried it. Proceed at your own risk. With sanding added, what I described will work great. I'd start with 220 to knock the gloss off, and then proceed to 400 and 600 grit to smooth it a bit, then prime and paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members thom Posted March 3, 2014 Author Members Share Posted March 3, 2014 ^Interesting...You sure shellac would stick to unsanded poly?? First time I hear/read about that, and to be honest, it seems a little too good to be true. I'll google around for some sort of confirmation, but for now I'lll take your word for it:)I'm not trying it out yet though, don't have time anyway. Edit: Still have to see it to believe it, but according to several different sources online...You seem to be right after all Phil. I stand corrected:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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