Members hendrix91 Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 Hello, I have been saving up for a beautiful mini maton (diesel) 6 string which will hopefully be my first acoustic. [ATTACH]340007[/ATTACH] But I had a thought, if I had the 12 string model, would I be able to take off 6 strings if I wished and (after adjusting the neck tension) Have it play exactly the same as the 6 string model? - would the strings be the same distance apart and stuff? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Neal Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 No, the string spacing would be different, the 12 is probably braced different, so the sound may suffer. The width at the nut is probably very different... It can be done in a pinch, but certain things will be traded off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hendrix91 Posted November 10, 2011 Author Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 OK! sticking with the 6 string. loving the immigration waltz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members solitaire Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 I'm pretty sure a .013 set on a previous 12-string would drive it very well, actually. As Neal said you'd have to cut a new nut and possibly even cut the saddle for it to better correspond to the nut and over all spacing along the neck. The feel of the guitar will be more vintage or even classical with the wider fretboard, but then that varies from maker to maker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members garthman Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 . . . But I had a thought, if I had the 12 string model, would I be able to take off 6 strings if I wished and (after adjusting the neck tension) Have it play exactly the same as the 6 string model? - would the strings be the same distance apart and stuff? Thanks It works OK. You can take off the octave strings leaving the normal main set. The remaining strings will be a little off centre - the distance between the 6th string and the edge of the fretboard will be a little greater than the distance between the 1st and fretboard edge. Also, because the fretboard of a 12 string is wider than a 6 string (standard 12er is 48mm), the strings will be slightly wider apart from each other. But your fingers will soon get used to both of these things. Some people say that the 6 strings will not "drive" the top because a 12 string guitar is more strongly braced - I think any difference (if any) is minimal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Neal Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 OK! sticking with the 6 string. loving the immigration waltz Thanks for the nod! I certainly wouldn't want to try taking any strings off that particular 12er . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members C70man Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 Leo Kottke doesn't have any problems making a 12 sound great....I know of at least two other 12 string to 6 string conversions that sound great....both Gibsons though....The neck and nut difference is massive, but if you can get your hands on an older Guild 12, I believe some were 1-11-13/16. Certainly the bracing is different on a 12....it has to be to carry the stress....but I have seen some of the bracing lightened up under the bridge by a luthier or even a tailpiece incorporating a standard bridge or floating bridge. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 Here are the problems with a 12 to 6 conversion 1) the neck is wider, you'll have to get used to it2) the strings will be shifted to the treble side. If you thumb fret the bass you might not be able to reach it as well. Ideally you should make a new nut3) the strings will be shifted at the bridge. Depending on the guitar it may have either the primaries closest to the saddle or the octaves. Ideally it will be the primaries, that give a better break angle.4) depending on the guitar the bracing might be the same as a sixer (Martins) or different (Taylor, Guilds). Depending on strings and tunings a twelve might have about 50 percent more top tension that a sixer (not twice), depending on the strings you use you will probably have about 60 percent of the tension - slightly lower volume5) most 12's use something like 0.010 to 0.047. If you go to six string lights or mediums (which you should) the nut slots will probably be too small. Simple to inlarge them, harder to make them smaller if you want to go back6) you might have slight intonation issues - might have to tweak the saddle break points7) witout strings in six of the tuners they might rattle As someone who loves 12 strings (I have three of them) I recommend buying one and playing it as a twelve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kiowa1 Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 I agree with Freeman that a new nut would be the best way to go. I have tried this alteration from 12 to 6 on several different occasions and it will work in a pinch, but I can almost guarantee you will find it uncomfortable and cumbersome to play. 12-strings make good 12-strings. And that's about it. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Opa John Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 I could be wrong, but I got the impression the OP was thinking of buying a 12 string, instead of a 6 string, in the hopes of being able to use the 12 as a 12-string OR a 6-string by removing the octave strings when desired. In other words. ONE guitar to use for both purposes. But, like I said.......I could be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kiowa1 Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 I could be wrong, but I got the impression the OP was thinking of buying a 12 string, instead of a 6 string, in the hopes of being able to use the 12 as a 12-string OR a 6-string by removing the octave strings when desired. In other words. ONE guitar to use for both purposes. But, like I said.......I could be wrong. You're right. That's what we're talking about, best as I can determine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members fastblueheeler Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 You are correct sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members katopp Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 Wouldn't.I love my 12's, like FK I own three of those critters, but a proper 6-2-12 conversion will render it useless for using it as a 12 later.Get a 12, but keep it as a 12, maybe D-tuned, but keep it as a 12. Good 6's can be bought used for a song and a dance, especially used, but good 12's are less abundant and it's always nice to have a lap piano around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted November 10, 2011 Members Share Posted November 10, 2011 I could be wrong, but I got the impression the OP was thinking of buying a 12 string, instead of a 6 string, in the hopes of being able to use the 12 as a 12-string OR a 6-string by removing the octave strings when desired. In other words. ONE guitar to use for both purposes. But, like I said.......I could be wrong. That was my understanding too. What I was trying to point out was the compromises and how he would correct them. Most of the time when I see people playing a 12 strung six it is because they never really bonded with the 12, or it was a cheap one that was hard to play. I have always argued that they are two different critters - built differently, strung differently, tuned differently, and often played differently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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