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Takamine apprecation thread!


KATMAN

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I went to a music store to buy a nice $1200 Larrivee. It was nice looking,but I wasn't really into it. I've tried several,Martins,Taylors,Waldens(they seem to be a bang for the buck IMO). Then I played a Takamine GS 430 SC plugged into a small Fishman acoustic amp,and Whoa! It had tone galore. I love the the guitar just melts into my hands,fits me like a glove.And the best thing is I paid a whopping $300. Anybody got a Takamine they like?:thu:

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I have played a few I love, and a few I did not care for. The only problem I have with Taks is that I can not remember one model number from the next. I played one I fell in love with that had a list price of $1100 or so, and I could not even guess what the model was now. My wife looked at the price, took the guitar out of my hands, and made me try something else. Then there was a $800 guitar that just did not feel or sound right to me at all, again I do not know which. Then I tried one that was about $350 - $400 that seemed great. I want to say that was an AN10, but I am not certain of that. Just too confusing trying to buy a Tak.

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Not all Takamines are created equal,that's for sure. A friend of mine got one, an "E" series,I don't like it all. It's too light,too tinny sounding unplugged for a $600 guitar. Mine is a solid wood guitar,cedar top and magogany back and sides. It sounds as good unplugged as it does plugged in. I guess they're lke any other models,some good ones,some not so good.

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My 1970s F-360 is pretty good once I got it set up right and learned how to take care of it. When I was trying out Fender DG acoustic and later on Taylor 300 and 400 series guitars, I found that I actually liked the Tak's tone better. That's good for me because that kept me from making a potential $200 mistake - or even $1500 in the case of the Taylor.

 

 

OTOH, it doesn't hold a candle to Martins and Larrivees at the $600 and above mark with regards to fit and tone.

 

BTW - with regards to the newer G series Taks (or 'EG' if they're acoustic-electric) I found that my late-model F series was better somehow in a way that I can't quite explain. I'm wondering if it's because mine was made in the main factory in Japan and the newer ones are made in Korea or Singapore? I tried a Japanese-made AN-10C with the cedar top and the neck felt just like my own guitar - only with that sweet cedar tone (and smell!)

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Originally posted by carguy

I have an EG 530SSC. Solid spruce top, solid sapele back and laminated sides, dreadnought acoustic-electric cutaway. $500.00 including the case.

Great guitar!

 

You got to like those solid tops! Mine took awhile to get used to,after playing a all laminated one. I like the feel of the neck,and I love the satin finish. This is my first all wood guitar and hopefully I can get another one next year or so.

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i have a 10 year old en10c which has now been discontinued...ive always wanted this model because i heard a local fingerstyle musician using one here and i never heard a guitar sound so sweet fat and full ..incedible bass and chiming treble...part of the reason it sounded that way was because of his right hand technique but i fell in love with the sound of it..i was at him for years to sell it to me but he wanted way to much for it then he moved away...i managed to pick up another one though...its a bit beat up the finish is quite worn under the sound hole its got its fair share of dings but the electrics are perfect i dont think ive played an acoustic thats set up better and its sounds great...i know there are better sounding acoustics out there but i paid 500 euros for the guitar and youd have to pay a hell of a lot more than that to find something better

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  • 7 years later...
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rschultz33@cox.net wrote:

 

 

I have a 1973 Tak F-400 12 string. Anyone know what it's worth?  It needs some work, and I trying to figure out if I should spend the money.  Thanks

 

Even tho this is another zombie thread, I'm going to guess that your question is legitimate and I'll try to comment.   I have a 1980 Martin 12 string that I knew needed some typical work - I paid $800 for it a few years ago.  I put a little over 600 into it - it is now in almost perfect playing condition.  I would say that it would fetch somewhere around 1500 to maybe 2K.

So lets work backwards on your Tak.   In perfect playable condition it is probably worth half what the Martin was - lets say 800 to a grand.    Here are the items of work that a 70"s guitar usually needs and approximate costs.

Neck reset - will include a new saddle and nut - $3-400.   This is a given

Frets - 15 per to replace, 150 to replace all.  If they only need crowing about 50.

Cracks, structural issues - 25 to 100

Your Tak probably doesn't have an adjustable truss rod.  If the relief is really bad it can be fixed (compression fretting or pulling the frets and planing) but it isn't worth it.

Bridge, bellied lower bout - say 50 bucks to pull the bridge and reglue.

You can see how easy it will be to put 5 or 600 bucks into it.   If you are doing that to sell I would say it isn't worth it, if you have attachment to the guitar it might be.    I'll also add that if it is like many Japanese guitars of that era that had their necks glued on with a glue that doesn't release with heat and moisture, then a neck reset is very difficult and the guitar is probably not worth much at all (consider it a slide axe).   Good luck with it - why don't you start a new thread and we can follow the progress.

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FYI the F-400 won't even have a solid top unless there's an S at the end of the model number. Unless it's one's only guitar or has sentimental value and is in otherwise good shape a neck reset might cost more than the value of the guitar.

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