New bridge for MIM Strat

[Snake]

I'm upgrading my MIM Strat. I got a good deal on Warmoth neck and I'm going to get some Grover locking mini tuners and new pots/switch. But I need help with the bridge. It's an old MIM ('94-'95 I think) and I don't know what the quality of the parts were back then. I was thinking about going with a locking Wilkinson or Fender bridge, but I really don't use the trem that much so tone is more important to me. Any suggestions for a good replacement trem?

[Snake]

Would THIS be an upgrade over the stock MIM trem?

[double rocker]

those are supposedly good and fit without mods. i would get it.

[rog951]

Upgrading a MIM's trem is one of the best mods you can make to improve its tone and sustain. Just be sure to check the spacing of the six fulcrum screws on the replacement. The MIM strats have a different spacing than their USA-made counterparts (metric?). All I know is I bought a replacement trem for my MIM and ended up having to plug and re-drill the six screw holes. A pain in my ass but well worth it when I was done. A drop-in would've been great!

[Snake]

Cool. What about a trem with a steel block vs. brass block? Does one effect tone/sustain more than the other?

[MojoFilter]

Yes. Most people consider Brass to add a level of harshness to an already treble-heavy guitar. I would avoid the brass block altogether.

 

I can't vouch for the quality of these parts, as far as construction as durability, since I've never bought from that company. However, I will vouch for Callaham's stuff. His replacement blocks and trem parts make a noticeable difference...

[ryanjgallagher]

I've been looking to upgrade my MIM tele bridge forever. I even called Fender and they told me there aren't any bridges that would fit. I guess strats are a bit different though.

[docjeffrey]

 

I've been looking to upgrade my MIM tele bridge forever. I even called Fender and they told me there aren't any bridges that would fit. I guess strats are a bit different though.

 

 

I replaced the bridge on my wife's Classic Series 50's Strat with a Fender USA version and it was a direct replacement.

 

I also replaced the hardtail bridge on my MIM Tele Thinline with a USA version and it had a slightly different string spacing but the screws were identical.

[asdfjkl semi]

 

I replaced the bridge on my wife's Classic Series 50's Strat with a Fender USA version and it was a direct replacement. I also replaced the hardtail bridge on my MIM Tele Thinline with a USA version and it had a slightly different string spacing but the screws were identical.

 

 

The classic series have different hole spacings than the standard series (MIM). I believe the classics, reissues, MIJ, and MIA 6-screw bridges are all the same.

 

The squires and regular MIM have their own spacing.

[warriorpoet]

 

I've been looking to upgrade my MIM tele bridge forever. I even called Fender and they told me there aren't any bridges that would fit. I guess strats are a bit different though.

 

Callaham Strat replacement is phenominal, if the quality of their other parts is anything to go by.

[asdfjkl semi]

... for Strats, that is. I don't know much about Teles.

[warriorpoet]

The classic series have different hole spacings than the standard series (MIM). I believe the classics, reissues, MIJ, and MIA 6-screw bridges are all the same. The squires and regular MIM have their own spacing.

Add the MIM artist series to that as well.

[chriscoleman]

 

Would THIS be an upgrade over the stock MIM trem?

 

 

I bought that exact trem last week to drop into my '93 MIM strat (everything is upgraded except the body and bridge). The trem came in a padded envelope and the trem arm was a bit tarnished. Annoying but no biggie.

 

I haven't installed it yet, but just comparing the trem screw spacing over the stock trem looks a teeny tiny bit off - but close enough to drop in and try without modding first. If it doesn't move freely enough, I'll take it off and plug/re-drill.

 

By its weight and construction alone, I expect it will make a difference in tone and sustain - whether or not I *like* the difference will be the deal breaker.

[double rocker]

 

I bought that exact trem last week to drop into my '93 MIM strat (everything is upgraded except the body and bridge). The trem came in a padded envelope and the trem arm was a bit tarnished. Annoying but no biggie. I haven't installed it yet, but just comparing the trem screw spacing over the stock trem looks a teeny tiny bit off - but close enough to drop in and try without modding first. If it doesn't move freely enough, I'll take it off and plug/re-drill. By its weight and construction alone, I expect it will make a difference in tone and sustain - whether or not I *like* the difference will be the deal breaker.

 

 

let us know when you install it. i was going to go with a wilkinson, but "lowbrow" said he got a couple of those and they were really excellent.

[_pete_]

 

Callaham Strat replacement is phenominal, if the quality of their other parts is anything to go by.

 

 

I did the Callaham Mexican bridge upgrade (block, screws, saddle screws) on my old MIM Strat and it was a huge improvement.

[Snake]

 

I did the Callaham Mexican bridge upgrade (block, screws, saddle screws) on my old MIM Strat and it was a huge improvement.

 

Hmmm. Well, I replaced the saddles a long time ago with Graph Tech String Savers and the base plate I'm assuming is fine, so maybe I should just replace the block with a Callaham steel block. You think that alone would make a noticeable difference in tone and sustain?

[rockmaster1964]

I thought it made a huge difference in mine.

[lowbrow]

I really like the two I've installed. Definite improvement in tuning stability and sustain. I'm not sure how much the brass block would effect brightness, both guitars I've got them in have humbuckers in the bridge. The overall material and build quality is excellent, and they are in fact a drop in replacement for a Mexican Standard strat. One of the little details I appreciate about them is the saddles....the screws no longer dig into my hand when muting.

[warriorpoet]

Hmmm. Well, I replaced the saddles a long time ago with Graph Tech String Savers and the base plate I'm assuming is fine, so maybe I should just replace the block with a Callaham steel block. You think that alone would make a noticeable difference in tone and sustain?

I'm sure it would affect the tone, but the Callaham is likely much smoother in operation. I imiagine it returns to pitch better than a MIM std. unit as well, which you'll not experience without a new baseplate.

[Breed]

My 1993 MIM Strat is a Roland Ready. Does anybody know if that is just a lower end MIM with the Roland parts added? I'm guessing it is because the string spacing is different than on my MIJ Strats. The high E string doesn't even go over the pole piece on the neck pickup.

Should a Callaham or one of the other trem bridges mentioned be a drop-in for this and do the new bridges give a little bit more string spacing so the strings actually go over the pole pieces??

[Breed]

Bump for info/advice. Here's a photo of what I'm talking about. I've done no work to this guitar at all, it is stock. Notice how the strings line up with the bridge pickup OK then get steadily worse with the middle and neck ones (black arrows), especially the neck pickup. Also, look how the strings line up on the neck (white arrows). The 6th string is fine but the 1st string is back from edge pretty far.

The more I read about the various drop in replacement tremolos, the more it looks like they will do the exact same thing, they are just made of better material.

So, do I need to plug the mounting holes and redrill it for a MIA or MIA replacement type tremolo to fix this? WILL doing that fix this?

I also added a pic of the serail # in case that'll help someone figure out if this is an oddball model or a regular MIM with Roland parts added. Thanks to anybody who can help!

 

[warriorpoet]

You need to loosen up the neck, yank it into place and tighten the screws. The many wonders of Leo Fender's bolt-on design...

[Breed]

Thanks, warriorpoet

That is so obvious I never even thought of it! Too bad there isn't an embarrassed smiley because I'd be using it now.

Anyway, I tried that and it moved some but not enough to fix it. It looks like I have to fill the screw holes in and redrill it with the neck postioned correctly, which is no big deal at all. I am so relieved that it is such a minor issue and easy fix.

You rule!

[warriorpoet]

Thanks, warriorpoet That is so obvious I never even thought of it! Too bad there isn't an embarrassed smiley because I'd be using it now. Anyway, I tried that and it moved some but not enough to fix it. It looks like I have to fill the screw holes in and redrill it with the neck postioned correctly, which is no big deal at all. I am so relieved that it is such a minor issue and easy fix. You rule!

Thanks, but it took a long time for me to figure that one out myself

 

Another trick: set the trem springs to slightly uneven tension so the side where the string is closest to the edge of the fretboard is tighter than the side furthest away. That should move it another 1/32" or so.

 

Did you loosen the strings when you had the neck screws loose? If not, slack the strings almost all the way, reset it, then tighten the screws. There's a surprising amount of movment available in those Fender neck joints if you're motivated enough.

[chriscoleman]

 

It just looks to me like all the saddles are cocked toward the lower strings. If you loosen all the strings and give the Low E saddle a good push down toward the higher strings, it'll straighten things out.