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NGD....Douglas Hawker W/ review


pimphat22

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They ARE inlays fellas. It's just that there was no laquer or sealer on them so the stain was coming of a bit. In fact... the entire fretboard seems like it was raw when i got it. I've had no probs since spraying it with the Deft though.

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indeed. people jump to some strange conclusions.

its just dye. many ebony fretboards will do the same thing when new. clean it up with lemon oil over the course of a few days and the bleeding should stop. a coat of tung oil would do even better.

the deft sealer is probably ideal, but isnt going to be necessary for buyers of this guitar.

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I wish i could. i have no means here to record. But i will say that my buddy just came over and we cranked it up and it sounds really good. He was blown away actually. I'm really impressed with the pickups.

 

 

The real thing I was looking at was how dark-sounding of a guitar is it? How bright is the bridge pickup?

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So they are made of the same wood as the fretboard, with a dye that comes off? What's the point then?? They might as well be painted on...




ok.. one more time:

the inlays are dyed, much like an ebony fretboard. the dye will bleed when new, much like an ebony fretboard. once cleaned the dye will stop bleeding and be fine, much like an ebony fretboard.

the OP chose to seal the board, which is a great idea, but should not be necessary.

the POINT of putting real inlays instead of stickers is that they wont wear off. dont confuse bleading with the black wearing off. the inlay pieces should be dyed through. note that im just assuing they are maple based on look, but they might be ebony or somethign else, im not sure.

good? :)

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ok.. one more time:


the inlays are dyed, much like an ebony fretboard. the dye will bleed when new, much like an ebony fretboard. once cleaned the dye will stop bleeding and be fine, much like an ebony fretboard.


the OP chose to seal the board, which is a great idea, but should not be necessary.


the POINT of putting real inlays instead of stickers is that they wont wear off. dont confuse bleading with the black wearing off. the inlay pieces should be dyed through. note that im just assuing they are maple based on look, but they might be ebony or somethign else, im not sure.


good?
:)



Gotcha! Thanks :thu:

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I kinda doubt they're maple, I've worked with dying maple before and it is quite resistant to it. It just doesn't want to absorb anything, it's a very closed pore wood.

 

But I guess with enough black dye it would work, but I think it would be easier and cheaper to use something else.

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I kinda doubt they're maple, I've worked with dying maple before and it is quite resistant to it. It just doesn't want to absorb anything, it's a very closed pore wood.


But I guess with enough black dye it would work, but I think it would be easier and cheaper to use something else.

 

 

its a different type of process. if you ever see that "designer" through dyed veneer that comes in red and blue and whatnot, its usually maple.

 

again though, it could be anything, it is dyed wood though for sure.

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The real thing I was looking at was how dark-sounding of a guitar is it? How bright is the bridge pickup?

 

 

I would say it's rather bright compard to a Gibson lp studio as well as my Greco lp custom. But not harsh at all. The bridge pup sounds like an EMG 81well, maybe less bite than the active but tonaly it's pretty close. The neck sounds great for bluesy type leads but gets a little too gritty for really clean stuff.

 

On another note: It's pretty heavy. not killer heavy but it's up there. Listed as 10lbs but mine may be more. I dont mind it though. i've been playing LPs for so long now it just feels natural. You strat type players may hate the weight though.

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its a different type of process. if you ever see that "designer" through dyed veneer that comes in red and blue and whatnot, its usually maple.


again though, it could be anything, it is dyed wood though for sure.



I was probably oversimplifying anyway, there's various kinds of maple and not all of them will take dye and stain the same.

I still think it would probably be cheaper to find a dark hardwood and cut it to shape and install it than it would be to cut maple and put it through a separate staining process before installing it. But who knows really. :idk:

I really like that guitar though, it's a very cool shape. It's hard to come up with new shapes these days that aren't too radical but are still different, and I think this is a good one. :thu:

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I got a headache reading your review. I'm glad you were able to fix everything, but I could never get along with a guitar like that (sorry, I'm just being an honest snob).

 

It would bug me forever knowing how cheaply made that guitar is, and I'd stick it in the closet while saying to myself, "What was I thinking."

 

On the other hand, for someone who is clever and resourceful, yourself for example, you are correct. It might make a perfect second guitar once you fix the niggles. Still, I think I would have looked at one of those OLP's.

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I would say it's rather bright compard to a Gibson lp studio as well as my Greco lp custom. But not harsh at all. The bridge pup sounds like an EMG 81well, maybe less bite than the active but tonaly it's pretty close. The neck sounds great for bluesy type leads but gets a little too gritty for really clean stuff.


On another note: It's pretty heavy. not killer heavy but it's up there. Listed as 10lbs but mine may be more. I dont mind it though. i've been playing LPs for so long now it just feels natural. You strat type players may hate the weight though.

 

 

Cool, thanks!

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I got a headache reading your review. I'm glad you were able to fix everything, but I could never get along with a guitar like that (sorry, I'm just being an honest snob).


It would bug me forever knowing how cheaply made that guitar is, and I'd stick it in the closet while saying to myself, "What was I thinking."


On the other hand, for someone who is clever and resourceful, yourself for example, you are correct. It might make a perfect second guitar once you fix the niggles. Still, I think I would have looked at one of those OLP's.

 

 

whats cheaply made about it? i mean, obviously its a cheap guitar, but...

 

just curious how you define that.

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Thanks for the info about the inlay issue. It seems awfully easy to take car of though.

For any of you SX/Douglas/Agile fans, I'm having a real hard time deciding between the Hawker, and the SX GG1 CUS.

http://www.rondomusic.com/gg1cusbk.html

It's quite a hard decision, but the SX seems better for the money because of all the extra specs. (Gold Hardware, Extremely Beautiful Finish, Pickguard) However, the Douglas Hawker possesses better tuners and maybe pickups. If anyone owns an SSX GG1 Model or even another SX Dual Humbucker Model, (To my knowledge most of them contain the same type of pickups) how are the pickups? I know the EMG HZ's aren't the best for clean tone, but I have my Spin-off Strat for that.

The pickups will probably be the deciding factor, although it'd be a hassle for me to change the tuners of the SX.

Douglas Hawker or SX GG1 CUS?

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For any of you SX/Douglas/Agile fans, I'm having a real hard time deciding between the Hawker, and the SX GG1 CUS.




If anyone owns an SSX GG1 Model or even another SX Dual Humbucker Model, (To my knowledge most of them contain the same type of pickups) how are the pickups? I know the EMG HZ's aren't the best for clean tone, but I have my Spin-off Strat for that.


The pickups will probably be the deciding factor, although it'd be a hassle for me to change the tuners of the SX.


Douglas Hawker or SX GG1 CUS?

 

 

I used to have a GG1 STD Mahogany (traded it to dcindc) and I kept my GG1 LTD2. The SX pups in those bodies are spanky. Sorry, that's really my best description of them. I cannot help you with the sound of the Hawker, but my advice is to make your decision based more on feel. If you don't like chunky necks, get the Hawker. You can always change the pups, and I bet that both sets of pups are serviceable.

 

Changing tuners isn't a big deal either, but the main problem with the SX tuners is simply that they bind, until they get broken in. None of mine have been the cause of tuning issues, usually it's the nut.

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