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Proel FLASH15SA Sub not powering on


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Hi,

 

I bought Proel FLASH15SA (powered sub) January. Our worship team tried to set it up today, but it wouldn't power on. The power chord is plugged in, but the LED won't even turn on when I switch on.

 

I opened up to look at the circuit board, but nothing seems to be burned.

 

Please help!

 

John

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Curious, why do you think looking at the circuit board is going to tell you anything or that you can fix it yourself? What it may do is void your warranty.

 

So, if you are sure the power cord is fully plugged in (yes, double-check), it's time to call your dealer and arrange for warranty service if you haven't voided your warranty already.

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No breaker or fuse for the unit?

Dookietwo

 

 

Most of the OCP on the newer powered speakers is internal and when it fails it's best NOT to replace it to prevent more damage form happening. The do not fail unless something is very wrong.

 

All of my new products do it this way. One less thing for the customer (or a well intentioned friend) to screw up.

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So, if you are sure the power cord is fully plugged in (yes, double-check).

 

 

Just took in a DBX 166xl because the IEC input connector on the unit was loose and thus intermittent. With 2800 watts going to my FOH the unit would turn on and off by itself... can you say POPPPPP. Scared the living _____ out of me. I was worried about my ears and my wallet.

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So, what exactly should I do?


Should I try to figure out the warranty of The DJ House? Or should I try to go to a local music store to get it fixed?


Thanks.

 

 

Contact your dealer. Provided they are a legitimate rep, they should be able to help you. Failing that, contact the manufacturer.

 

After sale support is where the rubber really meets the road when it comes to reputable products/dealers.

 

Also, report back with your results. We'd like to hear.

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Contact your dealer. Provided they are a legitimate rep, they should be able to help you. Failing that, contact the manufacturer.


After sale support is where the rubber really meets the road when it comes to reputable products/dealers.


Also, report back with your results. We'd like to hear.

yep, those arew the obvious things to do.

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Check Number 14.

Could have been an incoming voltage spike that took it out or low voltage input drawing too many amps. Your home has breakers for the same reason. You may put a new one in and everything from then on is fine. If the replacement goes bad then the unit of course has a problem. You'll never know until you try. Send the unit for a costly repair and there they put a new one in and send it back charging you big $$ that may not be needed?

 

http://www.velvetsystems.com/Proel.Flash.15SA.350W.Subwoofer.cfm

 

I'd try the fuse first to be sure the problem is in the sub and not from the voltage coming in or even in rough handling. If its a glass fuse they do break from time to time in transport.

 

Dookietwo

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The pain in dealing with Proel is that they moved their HQ from Florida to California, and their IT folks don't have their PC's up and running yet. I've had a bad Flash 15SA sitting here for 2 months. It came in damaged and they sent me another one promptly. I'm still sitting on the bad one. Christ I'd like to get this thing out of here.

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Check Number 14.

Could have been an incoming voltage spike that took it out or low voltage input drawing too many amps. Your home has breakers for the same reason. You may put a new one in and everything from then on is fine. If the replacement goes bad then the unit of course has a problem. You'll never know until you try. Send the unit for a costly repair and there they put a new one in and send it back charging you big $$ that may not be needed?




I'd try the fuse first to be sure the problem is in the sub and not from the voltage coming in or even in rough handling. If its a glass fuse they do break from time to time in transport.


Dookietwo

 

 

Would this void my warranty?

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Would this void my warranty?

 

 

If the problem came from the line voltage going to the sub then the breaker (hopefully) did its job and protected the amp.

 

If there was a problem with the amp/speaker then the warranty should cover the problem. It takes quite a failure to cause a mains breaker to go bad. ( Shorted transformer windings come to mind ) The damage is done if it is internal.

 

The breaker may not even be blown. It could be something else. Check it with a multi meter. If the fuse is blown replace it with one with the exact same voltage/type. 120/240 slow blow or fast blow as an example.

 

The breaker is a user serviceable part. """ 14. FUSE holder Here is placed the mains protection fuse. Please follow the instructions on page 4 of this manual to replace it."""" They would not have put it there if they didn't want the owner to replace it. Read page 4 of the manual to replace it.

 

Note: Try replacing the fuse just once. If it blows again then of course the problem was with the sub and it needs service.

 

I've blown breakers in power amps before that was caused by low voltage and not by a problem with the power amp.

 

Call Proel if your worried but I would never go to the expense of sending a unit out without first checking/replacing the mains fuse.

 

Dookietwo

 

EDIT: From the manual.

 

CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE PROTECTION FUSE, ACCESSIBLE OUTWARD, ONLY

WITH THE APPARATUS SWITCHED OFF AND DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAINS LINE

OUTLET.

 

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If the problem came from the line voltage going to the sub then the breaker (hopefully) did its job and protected the amp.

 

If there was a problem with the amp/speaker then the warranty should cover the problem. It takes quite a failure to cause a mains breaker to go bad. ( Shorted transformer windings come to mind ) The damage is done if it is internal.

 

The breaker may not even be blown. It could be something else. Check it with a multi meter. If the fuse is blown replace it with one with the exact same voltage/type. 120/240 slow blow or fast blow as an example.

 

The breaker is a user serviceable part. """ 14. FUSE holder Here is placed the mains protection fuse. Please follow the instructions on page 4 of this manual to replace it."""" They would not have put it there if they didn't want the owner to replace it. Read page 4 of the manual to replace it.

 

Note: Try replacing the fuse just once. If it blows again then of course the problem was with the sub and it needs service.

 

I've blown breakers in power amps before that was caused by low voltage and not by a problem with the power amp.

 

Call Proel if your worried but I would never go to the expense of sending a unit out without first checking/replacing the mains fuse.

 

Dookietwo

 

EDIT: From the manual.

 

CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE PROTECTION FUSE, ACCESSIBLE OUTWARD, ONLY

WITH THE APPARATUS SWITCHED OFF AND DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAINS LINE

OUTLET.

 

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Even though it says "user-accessible," I have no clue how to access the fuse. How do I open the 14 Fuse Holder?


Sorry if I'm asking a stupid question.

 

 

They all are a little bit different. Unplug the cord and see if it has a plastic cover just below where the cord plugs in that needs to be popped off with a screw driver. Some have a small slot that needs to be turned. Should be pretty simple when you get the sub in front of you.

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Hey everyone,

 

The fuse was the problem. There was an extra fuse inside of the fuse compartment. After replacing it, I plugged it in again, and it started powering on again!

 

Now, what I am concerned about is the fact that the fuse did burn out. I have no idea what I've done to burn it out. How do I prevent this from happening?

 

Thank you all.

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Hey everyone,


The fuse was the problem. There was an extra fuse inside of the fuse compartment. After replacing it, I plugged it in again, and it started powering on again!


Now, what I am concerned about is the fact that the fuse did burn out. I have no idea what I've done to burn it out. How do I prevent this from happening?


Thank you all.

 

 

I read your reply a few times and I need to clarify.

 

1. You put the new fuse in and it works fine now?

2. You put the new fuse in and the new one burned out?

 

If 1. now its time to be sure everything is ok with the sub.

Play some recorded music at a low volume and make sure you don't hear some rubbing or scraping from the speaker. A sub alone without the tops running doens't sound great but listen for again rubbing or scraping sounds. A blown speaker could have caused the amps breaker to blow trying to drive a shorted speaker.

Next use the subwoofer as you normally would and make sure the signal/limit light is are not on red. ( No. 10 signal / clip light ) Green is ok. Flashing a lot or stead on RED on this light is not ok. If you ran it with the signal light with the red light steady on , it may have drawn enought current to blow the fuse.

 

Make sure the back of the sub has enough room for the heat sinks to work.

 

Next check the voltage at your venue. Make sure its not too low. Above 105 volts or more is better. Monitor the voltage at the gig. It may start out fine but as the band plays it may drop. This means you need to find a different place to get current for the shows. Or have more circuits put in. Monitor the voltage where the sub is plugged in.

 

Of course if its No. 2 then you need to return it for service.

 

Dookietwo

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