Phil O'Keefe Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 I was discussing some acoustic issues / questions with someone on another forum here at HC and they mentioned this stuff I've never heard of before. http://www.supressproducts.com/products/index.htm There's no test data on their site that I saw, so I'm going to give 'em a call and see if I can find out more tomorrow. Anyone ever heard of / used this stuff? Comments? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Lee Knight Posted February 14, 2006 Moderators Share Posted February 14, 2006 That looks interesting, and no, I haven't heard anything about it. I've always wondered though, what percentage of sound transmission is due to structural vibration. I would think you'd still need to take great pains in isolating your structure from your room. I used a layer of 5/8' and layer of 1/2" on each side of my walls double wall construction. Separate sills, resilient channel, sheetrock resting on cork and rubber and the gaps filled with caulk, etc. The only sound that gets out is the kick vibrating through the slab. My 8' ceiling limited any floating floor options. Still, I guess if someone were looking to isolate a bedroom for instance, and had little room to work with it could be interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GZsound Posted February 14, 2006 Members Share Posted February 14, 2006 I agree. I am trying to find the sound specs on standard sheet rock. I would think a multiple layer system of sound board covered with sheet rock would work better than simply adding one dense layer to an existing wall. The change in density would seem to work better. Also, they show their product simply attached to an existing wall with sheet rock screws. That is a direct transfer of sound through the two layers. I also built my floating walls with staggered studs, resilient channel and two layers of 5/8" sheetrock on each side. Each layer sealed and taped before adding the next. It makes for eight inch thick walls.. but boy they sure work well. For covering outer existing walls, I put a layer of sound board, then three quarter inch furring strips, resilient channel and two layers of 5/8" sheet rock. I stuffed the cavety with pink insulation. That wall is ten inches thick and dead quiet. I have a full drum kit and bass amp just inside that wall and my neighbor who lives twenty feet away, has never heard us rehearse, until I open the outer doors. From everything I have read, it is a change in density that gives the greatest isolation. A sheetrock/soundboard/sheetrock sandwich on an existing wall ..glued, NOT screwed would seem to be a much better system. Even a sheetrock/acoustic vinyl/sheetrock wall would be better... I think. How spendy is that stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members The Chinese Posted February 15, 2006 Members Share Posted February 15, 2006 I've used this before, which seems very similar- http://www.quietsolution.com/Products/Construction___Building/QuietRock/quietrock.html They claim this stuff has a minimum STC of 51dB!!!! It's fire rated and also THX approved (not that big of a deal actually...). Keep in ind that that that STC rating is for a complete wall... Here's the rub- It's the seams that kill you in an installation. I always recommend using a vinyl sound barrier- http://www.acousticsfirst.com/vinyl.htm if you used both, you're in the mix, Big-Time. -Todd A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Lee Knight Posted February 15, 2006 Moderators Share Posted February 15, 2006 Originally posted by The Chinese Here's the rub- It's the seams that kill you in an installation. I always recommend using a vinyl sound barrier- Or you stagger your seams on a dual layer, one vertical, one horizontal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GZsound Posted February 15, 2006 Members Share Posted February 15, 2006 Exactly.. One layer up, one layer down. And I still cannot see how placing a layer of this product over the top of an existing wall and mounting it with sheet rock screws into existing studs could provide that much sound isolation. The solid connection between the wall and the studs would transmit low frequencies straight through the wall.. I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members The Chinese Posted February 15, 2006 Members Share Posted February 15, 2006 Originally posted by Lee Knight Or you stagger your seams on a dual layer, one vertical, one horizontal. Yes, this is a good install technique as well, I would still use vinyl and add that technique, then you're looking at a killer wall. -Todd A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members The Chinese Posted February 15, 2006 Members Share Posted February 15, 2006 Originally posted by GZsound Exactly.. One layer up, one layer down.And I still cannot see how placing a layer of this product over the top of an existing wall and mounting it with sheet rock screws into existing studs could provide that much sound isolation. The solid connection between the wall and the studs would transmit low frequencies straight through the wall.. I think. You don't use screws to install vinyl, you use glue. It's similar to the soundboard install you werre talking about above, but vinyl is more effective than soundboard, uses less space, and is easier to cut to fit. You basically make a sandwich. -Todd A. Edit: Or were you referring to the Drywall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted February 15, 2006 Author Share Posted February 15, 2006 I think he was talking about the drywall, and not the limp-mass vinyl. I used Auralex Sheetblok on a couple of walls in our studio and it seems to have worked as advertised. As Todd said, you glue it instead of nailing or screwing it in place. I've had a few online disagreements with some folks over the multi-layer / different density material approach, but it has never let me down. Isolate it from the structure with res. channel and / or ASC Walldamp (great stuff BTW ) and definitely alternate the orientation of each layer of material - first layer vertical, next layer horizontal, next layer vertical, etc. and you caulk / mud all the seams, you should have a fairly high STC wall when you're done. If it's isolated on neoprene (Auralex U-Boats work well), and if you use either staggered studs on a 2X6 base, or double walls along with the multi-material layering, that's even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted February 15, 2006 Author Share Posted February 15, 2006 BTW, here's a site that gives you a chart of different STC's for walls utilizing different construction approaches: http://soundproofing.org/infopages/soundwalls.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted February 15, 2006 Author Share Posted February 15, 2006 And another one, with graphics this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GZsound Posted February 16, 2006 Members Share Posted February 16, 2006 Originally posted by The Chinese You don't use screws to install vinyl, you use glue.It's similar to the soundboard install you werre talking about above, but vinyl is more effective than soundboard, uses less space, and is easier to cut to fit. You basically make a sandwich.-Todd A.Edit:Or were you referring to the Drywall? Yes.. I was referring to the mechanical bond created when you screw the supress product to a sheetrock wall. The sheet rock screws themselves will transmit sound directly into the stud...which will transmit it through the outer wall. I agree with Phil, the wall needs to be de-coupled, not coupled, in order to not transmit vibrations from one layer to the next. I believe that is why high density vinyl would work well also. It is another mass that would not resonate sandwiched between other material that would not resonate. I looked into high density vinyl but it was way too expensive for my needs. Good old staggered studs and resiliant channel worked very well for me at reasonable cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tcornishmn Posted February 23, 2006 Members Share Posted February 23, 2006 I've done a lot of research on this stuff. I'm still waiting for the full technical info on the suppress stuff, but I know more about their competitor Quiet Solutions and their product Quiet Rock. The bottom line: I'm almost convinced. I'm waiting on the Suppress band specific info, but I'm about to make a purchase. Here are the details on the Quiet Rock: Overall STC of 50-53 or so. Like every other product, it does better at blocking higher frequencies than lower ones, but even as low as 125Hz it is blocking 33dB. This is based on a pre-existing 2X4 wall with r12 insulation and 1/2" drywall on each side, adding Quiet Rock to the inside. This is very similar in performance to an Auralex wall with resilient channel, sheetblock, and 2 layers of drywall. It is also much easier to install than the Auralex stuff - no demo required, just screw it over the existing drywall and caulk and seal with metal tape. Cost is astronomical - over $100US per 4'X8' sheet, but that actually is cheaper than Auralex wall with mineral fiber and sheetblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted February 25, 2006 Author Share Posted February 25, 2006 $110 per sheet? Ouch! But then again, if it works as advertised... Thanks for the good post tcornishmn, and welcome to the forums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PhilBelanger Posted February 26, 2006 Members Share Posted February 26, 2006 To reduce the sound from my "music room". I used 4 layers of 5/8 drywall, insulating products in the ceiling (blown in), resilient channels, sonopan sheets. I can crank my Marshall and they can't hear it upstairs, it's nothing short of a miracle. It will not stop bass completely but my kids can sleep on the second floor. I also doubles as a home theater room so I can crank the volume on movies and they will sometime hear a rumble here and there... I quite happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tcornishmn Posted March 2, 2006 Members Share Posted March 2, 2006 By the way Phil, it's good to talk to you again. I remember you from about 5 years ago and the Yamaha AW4416 Yahoo group. TJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GZsound Posted March 2, 2006 Members Share Posted March 2, 2006 hoo boy. At a hundred bucks a sheet, that gets real expensive real fast. I guess if you have a small room inside a home you need to soundproof, this would work better than making the walls much thicker by adding multiple layers of sheetrock, resiliant channel, etc. But I figure for the approximately $2,100 (for a ten by twelve standard bedroom) it would cost, I would hang resiliant channel and put up two layers of sheetrock. But that's just me and I'm famous for being cheap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Robman2 Posted March 9, 2008 Members Share Posted March 9, 2008 Phil, Where does onebuy it? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mickeydean Posted March 9, 2008 Members Share Posted March 9, 2008 my whole house has it. when i fart only my neighbors can hear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Dan Bailey Posted March 13, 2008 Members Share Posted March 13, 2008 We are in the process of building a church. Good acoustics is a priority. I am thinking of a using supress or some other kind of acoustical drywall to absorb the sound to make for better acoustics inside the sanctuary. Not necessarily for sound proofing. I've been in churches with a lot of hard flat surfaces, and the acoustics are horrible. Can anyone help me with information about this?? The main question I'm trying to answer, is this stuff only for soundproofing or will it also help with the sound distortion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted March 14, 2008 Author Share Posted March 14, 2008 We are in the process of building a church. Good acoustics is a priority. I am thinking of a using supress or some other kind of acoustical drywall to absorb the sound to make for better acoustics inside the sanctuary. Not necessarily for sound proofing. I've been in churches with a lot of hard flat surfaces, and the acoustics are horrible. Can anyone help me with information about this?? The main question I'm trying to answer, is this stuff only for soundproofing or will it also help with the sound distortion? Again, I am not sure what, if any, acoustical absorption characteristics it has. I'd contact the manufacturer and ask them... but my suspicion is that it is intended as a sound proofing product, not as a product for acoustical absorption. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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