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About 6down1togo

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  1. You can also get a tune-o-matic style bridge that drops right on the wood base. They brighten/focus the tone a bit. They sell for less than $20 on eBay and include both the bridge and the base. Throw the base out and use yours since it fits the contour of your top. They come with small bushings that slip over the tuner posts so the bridge doesn't rock on the smaller posts. I've bought this one Tune-o-matic style jazz bridge and installed on vintage Japanese hollowbodies. The difference was like and night and day on those.
  2. Good move passing on that LP Copy. I am a big fan of Ibanez guitars, they build some really nice guitars that last. When you do a string change, just replace one string at a time and you'll never have the mess with the bridge. If you want to clean/treat the fretboard and have to remove all the strings, run a piece of blue painter's tape on the body along the backside of the bridge and at both ends to positively locate the bridge. You can tape the bridge down but if you bump it, it will move. With location outlined on the body by the tape, you can't miss.
  3. Replace the pickup covers and the rest of the parts. Paint looks like paint and plating them yourself accomplishes nothing as the plating won't stick to corrosion. It's not so easy as pouring some solution in a jar, connecting a couple wires to a battery and dropping the parts in the solution as some people like to think. Unless you are able to remove all the corrosion and can re-plate with a base metal first to fill all pitting from the corrosion and mirror polish before plating, you're just wasting your time.
  4. If a set neck, maybe but no more than $100. If a bolt neck, pass.
  5. Old post I know, but here's an interesting tidbit. While the Epiphone tops are a thin figured maple veneer laminated to a plain maple cap" on the Les Paul models, Samick actually used a photoflame veneer on some of their Avion models. There were multiple Avion models with varying specs, so the further up the model ladder you went, you went from a photoflame top to a flamed maple top. I remember looking at some lower line Avion models which had beautiful flamed tops, almost too nice for the price. The dealer had two of the same model and finish hanging next to each other and the tops were identical. I remarked that "Trees don't make identical twins do they?" and the dealer said "Nature had nothing to do with those tops, they are photo-engraved." Sure enough, when you held the top to the light, the figure was dead flat and didn't shift with the light like real flamed maple does." A number of years later there was a glut of odd-colored Samick Avions being blown out on Musicians Friend, Music 123 and eBay with hideous looking flame tops that had taken on an odd green/red hue. Apparently, this was due to some reaction within the photofilm, almost like a photograph that was improperly fixed (chemical reaction neutralized) during processing. I had the misfortune of attempting to touch up a photoflame top on a King branded Stratocaster that I detailed in a prior post. I had mistaken the photofilm for a maple venner and attempted a tinted lacquer drop fill of a tiny ding that was oddly white in color below the surface. It turned into a crater as the lacquer melted the photofilm away with each successive attempt until it dawned on me that I was working with a photofilm top, hence the white color of the photofilm base.
  6. Contemporary or made in the '70's, it's a $100 guitar. Why research it? Just enjoy it for what it is, a Strat copy.
  7. Well, another plan shot to hell. I ordered a set of abalone fret marker overlays thinking I could trim them to cover the tribal inlays and leave a pearl surround. They looked really nice but unfortunately were too narrow to work. There was no way the seller was going to measure every one and report back given they were only $4.00. I ordered a $9.00 set of block inlay stickers from another seller in white pearl, There was no abalone available. I had to trim the height on one and one was slightly narrow so I used a stain pen to hide the edges of the inlay under the sticker. I could have trimmed them all to fit just inside the existing inlays but I'm tired of fooling with this project and just want to sell it and move on. What a great little guitar though, plays and sounds like a champ. The abalone. Some would have fit, some not. The pearl block overlays. I did some bends and the strings don't catch the edges at all as they have a slight bevel to them. They are made from a metal foil and once they're down, there's no peeling back up and repositioning. .:
  8. GilmourD, I don't know what the heck I was measuring but I just looked at it again and the WD neck heel was 1" and so are my Fenders. I need to start wearing my reading glasses when I do this stuff. lol The neck pocket was an 1/8" shallow and that was the problem. I was sitting here thinking about it and remembered that my normal 1-3/4" neck screws weren't long enough and I had gone to 2" screws on the initial assembly and the light just went on! The neck pocket was the issue. I just got my measurements twisted up. I take back everything I said about WD. lol.
  9. Yeah, it's only been 13 years since posted. I am guessing the OP may have figured this one out by now.
  10. The heel measured 1" thick and the pocket 5/8" deep. My Fender guitars (USA Dlx and '57 AVRI) have 7/8" thick heels and 5/8" deep neck pockets. I removed 3/32" from the pocket and 1/32" off the neck heel to put the fingerboard back at the correct height above the deck. I could have taken the full 1/8" from the pocket but I was swearing at the WD Logo and decided to "erase it". Here is a before and after:
  11. In the never-ending project that this guitar has become, I have decided the neck just sits too high off the body. I have jacked up the saddles with longer height screws and shimmed the neck to decrease the neck angle and I still don't have it playing the way it should. I measured the neck pocket depth and it was 1/2" (was) 5/8" as it should be. The most likely culprit is the Fender Licensed neck by WD. WD is well known as an acronym for "Wrong Dimensions" and this neck is no exception. The thickness of the heel makes the neck sit up out of the body too high to allow good playabilty. No matter how high I set the saddles and action or angle the neck, it would always fret out somewhere on the neck. My bad. Neck was correct, neck pocket was not I started by sanding off the neck heel as far as I could go. It didn't amount to much, but there it is. With my router sitting at a buddy's house and me avoiding a 2.5 hour round trip to retrieve it, I did what anyone possessing a Dremel and a Master's Degree in "Ghetto Luthiery" would do … I ground the pocket out free-hand with my Dremel. I did use a square and Vernier Calipers to check my progress to compensate for the ghetto technique. It took about 15 minutes and a light kiss with piece of sandpaper afterwards. Here is the result … This time it will play right. Since I was better motivated, I added magnetic catches for the covers and a cool serialized neck plate.
  12. Here's the body and neck for the next one. Mahogany body with an awesome ribbon figure on the back and a Curupay/Walnut neck I had bought for another project that I didn't like it with. I think the reddish fingerboard looks good with the Tortoise guard. I sprayed a couple coats of "Midas Touch" over the Walnut neck to warm up the color a bit too. It was more brownish gray in color than I expected and I learned the amber tint can do wonders on walnut to warm it up. Got some vintage tuners and a set of Fender Custom Blackguard pickups to go in it. The "spot" in the middle of the back is a reflection of my overhead lighting.
  13. No, I built this one for me. I don't really see a neck angle issue but the allen screws in the saddles are very short and are nearly fully extended with action at about 1/16" which is too low I am going to get screws with an additional 1/8" length and that should do it. Before I do this though, I am going to throw in a 0.020" shim at the front of the neck pocket and see if it just needs a little less neck angle. If that does the trick, I'll pull the neck off and taper the heel slightly. Should be an easy fix either way. I am anxious to play this thing.
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