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6down1togo

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About 6down1togo

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    Elgin, Illinois

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  1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pc-Adjustable-6-String-Luthier-Archtop-Jazz-Guitar-Floating-Bridge-Rosewood/263482714208?epid=748841161&hash=item3d58cb2860:g:4VwAAOSwMAxaer1j
  2. These are cheap and look period correct. Saddles are moveable for intonation and string spacing. You can file a groove once you have the desired spacing.
  3. You can file new grooves in the saddles where you want them.
  4. I don't see why you couldn't just install a modern jazz bridge like this one. You have a tune-o-matic on a wood base so you don't have to drill the guitar's top. You would have to sand the bottom of the wood base flat but that's easy with a belt dander or just a sheet of sandpaper laid on a flat surface. This way you don't have to drill the guitar for posts. Slide the bridge up and down for rough intonation on both E strings and the fine tune with the saddle screws.
  5. Here is the finished headstock. I need to stain match the trussrod access bevel but am waiting to spray a couple more light coats of lacquer to seal off the endgrain inside so it doesn't go too dark. I walk the neck out to my deck, spray a light coat and then bring it back inside to dry. I added some character lines to the veneer with my Varathane stain pens to better batch the body too. I have 7 builds I have been working on and off for quite a while. I work on them when I feel like it and leave them sit when I don't. 2 are semi-complete just needing some final solder connections and one is a completed body w. set neck waiting to be assembled. Here's a pick of parts cabinet. Inside pick shows "kitted" bags of complete hardware and electronics for each project and also a pick of the 4 current projects. Why not start and finish one at a time you ask? Yeah, I know … crazy. Honestly, I complete the woodwork and finishing in my garage before the weather turns, leaving me these winter projects to assemble, wire and setup.
  6. I picked up a Strat body routed for 2 P90's a while back and finally sourced some parts and started work on it. Progress has been slow as my IBM ("Peter Frampton's disease") has been kicking my ass and allowing me fewer "good days" when I feel like doing anything. The body has a Chechen top and Cherry back. I left it au' naturale and did a Watco Danish oil finish on it. I was a bit undecided on a neck but wound up going with a rosewood over mahogany neck thinking P90's and mahogany necks always worked for Gibsons w P90's so why not here? The neck pictured in the first mockup pic is ebony over maple. It didn't make the cut and will be used on another project. The P90's have faux rosewood covers and I have rosewood knobs and tuners keys that will go on it.. I decided to veneer the headstock face with Chechen also. I stain-matched the neck to the Cherry back of the guitar and put a couple light coats of lacquer on the neck to make glue removal from the veneering process easier. I was kind of hacked that the body had some chip-outs around the pickup routes (see the first pic), but after working with the Chechen veneer, I can commiserate with the builder. Chechen is rock hard but splits and chips like crazy. Here is the plain headstock as I drilled out the tuner holes to accept the locking tuners. Being a master of "Ghetto Luthiery", I used a step drill (which is essentially a reamer) and drilled from both front and back partway through. I then used my Dremel to remove the remaining "step" inside the tuner holes with an appropriately sized abrasive stone tip. No drama, no chips or splits. I cut a piece of Chechen veneer about 1/4" oversize for the headstock face, steamed the veneer lightly with my Black and Decker steam iron while wrapping it around an aerosol can to shape for the cove of the headstock. I applied wood-glue to both surfaces, aligned the veneer at the edge of the fretboard, pressed the caul into place and applied small C clamps to hold everything overnight. IIn the true sporot of "Ghetto Luthiery". I padded the back of the headstock with a paint stir stick I got with my kitchen paint. lol You can see the block with the radiused end (caul) that I made to clamp the veneer to follow the cove of the fretboard to headstock face. Ghetto Luthiery Alert! Steaming veneer for neck cove contour I trimmed the excess veneer off with an Exacto knife, sanded the edges flush with a Dremel and drum sanding attachment followed by finish sanding. As you can see in the pic below, I had a small sliver of veneer chip away while sanding. I trimmed the split straight with an Exacto knife and glued a small scrap of veneer in with CA. Note that I left a convenient "tab" to hold the veneer in place while the CA set up instead of gluing my fingers to the headstock face. lol. More progress pics to follow!
  7. I've used a couple of those for years. They are not lacquer-safe. If you leave your lacquered guitars unmoved for a month or more, the finish will be affected. I was able to wet sand and buff the marks off my ES-335 but my Les Paul Custom's body binding discolored from the foam.
  8. Seller is WISENUTPOO. That should tell you something.
  9. [QUOTE=Freeman Keller;n32539927] [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":32539930}[/ATTACH] [/QUOT Whoa! Are you holding out on us? This looks a like a build!
  10. Yes, you can also sit on a freshly painted park bench marked "wet paint" as long as you never look back. The easiest way I have found for hanging it up is a slacks style hanger from the dry cleaners.. Pull the hanger ends out of the cardboard tube, insert them in two tuner holes and hang 'em high". Another way is to create a makeshift stand supporting the guitar face down supported in the pickup routes. Spray can lids inserted in the pickup routes works fine for humbucker guitars. A Strat style can be supported by two screws each in two of the pickup cavities acting as "feet". On a bolt neck, one pair of feet can be screws into the neck holes. You apply the finish to the front, lay it down and then finish the neck, sides and back.
  11. Initially, he thought the guitar was in amazing condition. He mentioned a few string buzzes (there were none unless he is a ham fisted player) which he would take care of. He sad he might contact George Gruhn and see what it is really worth. I replied "Good luck with that." Then he came back claiming every fretted note on every string was off key and the guitar wouldn't stay in tune. I had put new strings on it before shipping, but did not adjust the intonation. I told him that for a guy who claims a collection of 174 guitars and obviously have a tuner, you should be able to perform an intonation adjustment. I gave him a quick how-to but followed up quickly to advise he should not touch anything and just file an eBay claim since that is where this is headed. I advised that I would video the unboxing and myself playing a tune for eBay customer service on what you claim is an unplayable guitar so they may determine whether you get a full or partial refund (less the return shipping). He shifts gears again and wants to take the guitar to "his guy" and claims repairs could be in the range of $100-$150 and possibly more (claims it needs a new fretboard because the frets are not accurate. I told him he is expecting a lot from a guitar from Sears and should just send it back before he does any damage or alters anything and no I will not split the cost with you. He says he is being more than fair by requesting only half the repair cost. You and I know how that works. His buddy writes a phony work order and he pockets the cash in compensation for a guitr I can only assume he thinks or was told he paid too much for. I sent him 1 final email that said "Send it back at your expense or take your chances with an eBay claim. Do not touch any thing on the guitar if you intend to send it back." He decided to keep the guitar and basically says I am a jerk.
  12. It doesn't matter what you state. I always select the return policy of "Seller Does Not Accept Returns" and that carries no weight. PayPal allows a buyer to claim an item was misrepresented without proof for up to 180 days after the sale and eBay/PayPal always side with the buyer regardless of the lack of proof. I sold a guitar neck to some clown in Rochester NY with shipping included. When I provided a USPS tracking# he went ballistic about it is going to take 2 weeks, the post office loses every package, they handle the boxes with meat hooks … yada yada yada. I told him I wished there was more that I could do and if the item did not arrive within the guaranteed delivery day window, he could send it back. He sent me a message (through eBay no less) saying "... screw you, I am just going to claim it is damaged and make you take it back." It arrived on time and he filed a PayPal claim that the box was damaged (a brown shipping box) and eBay/PayPal made me issue a full refund including return shipping. I filed an abuse of return policy counter-claim, providing his email as proof of return policy abuse and advised the shipping carton had no bearing on the item I shipped. eBay/PayPal says not our problem, the box was damaged case closed. To add insult to injury, eBay allowed the buyer to provide my only negative feedback saying I was unethical and a liar. They then removed my feedback on the buyer in which I said simply " Problem buyer, abuses return policy".
  13. Against my better judgement, I put a Sears Effector guitar up for sale on eBay. There is a glut of these (all beaters) on Reverb and I couldn't sell mine at the premium price its mint condition commanded.. A guy who claims to be a collector w. 100+ guitars bought it and immediately asked if it was truly a collectible guitar. That was the first red flag the deal was going to fall apart. I responded that they were more a curiosity that a true collectible guitar but were desirable to those who place a value on nostalgia or owned one as a kid. I told him they weren't great guitars by any stretch but the built-in-effects were fun to fool around with and it is rare to find one like this in near-new condition with OHSC, The buyer receives the guitar and comments on its unbelievable condition but immediately begins nitpicking that is has a little string buzz but he'll set it up and "make it play like buttah". Yes he used those exact words. I received the following from him this AM which is ebayspeak for "I am having buyer's remorse now because I didn't due my homework to find out that catalog guitars of this type and era aren't so great so you should take the fall as a seller." You just can't sell on ebay anymore because the buyer is always right and eBay will back them. After all that has been said, I have continued to tune the guitar, expecting it to hold tuning, and it will not. New strings should help, but the "intonation" is off, such that the Guitar will not play in tune in all positions. This may not be easily fixed !? So, if you would care to have the guitar back, I could pack it up and ship it back to you. I'm sorry, but I don't encounter this problem very often. I can invest $100 To $150 and possibly solve the problem. Carroll G.
  14. String/Fret buzz on high frets = too much neck relief. Mid neck action will be higher than first and 12th frets. Fret buzz and high action at high and low frets = too little relief or possible back-bow to the neck. Capo the strings on the 2nd fret (or use a nylon zip tie of you have no capo), depress the 3rd and or 4th string at the 17th fret and check string to fret clearance at the 10th fret, adjust the rod to get about .005" -.006". Viewed from the front of the headstock, rotating the truss rod clockwise (tightening) will increase the relief (gap), counter-clockwise rotation (loosening) will decrease the relief. You only need around 1/4 turn to accomplish this adjustment. Overtightening can snap the trussrod and then you have wall art instead of a guitar.
  15. Stratosphere was just running a sale on WD Fender licensed necks for $89 ea.
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