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Everything posted by kwakatak

  1. It's kind of an old thread but your comments have sort of answered my concerns to their longevity. I tried an Epi Masterbilt EF-500RA out in 2005 (basically a rosewood/sitka OM with a dark sunburst bound with abalone and with a V-shaped neck profile) and I was impressed with the tone but wondered how it would age. Lightly built guitars don't tend to live long - especially in hot and dry climates like LV regardless if the have laminated back and sides or solid like the Masterbilts had. FWIW on the day I tried the MasterbiltEF-500RA I A/B'd it with a Larrivee D-09. Admittedly it was apples to oranges but eventually I went with a Larrivee OM-03R which like the EF-500RA is an OM but with Larrivee's symmetrical and unscalloped bracing. It took some time for it to open up but I'm glad I waited. If I'd pulled the trigger on the Epi it would have imploded by now but my Larrivee took some knocks and shrugged them off.
  2. Good to know, Mike. I liked the HD-28V. I like the HD-35 more only because the v shaped neck takes a little getting used to. The tone is much more “in your face” too. The 35 is more of a mellow strummer with a bass that “blooms” whereas the 28V is a bit of a cannon.
  3. It's 14 years since the OP posted this. Since then the HD-28 has been reimagined and the HD-28V has been discontinued. The current iteration of the HD-28 now has forward shifted bracing with a performance neck profile IIRC. The old "V" (for Vintage) version had a modified V neck profile and sounded completely different from the ordinary HD-28 prior to 2018 because the bracing was not forward shifted them. IIRC the current reimagined HD-28 also has a Torrified sitka soundboard - which also bumps up the price.
  4. When this thread started I only had one kid and was still changing diapers. Since then I've learned to keep my guitars in their cases and tune then all down a half step so that all the dogs in the neighborhood don't lose their minds because I'm straining my voice and being all pitchy.
  5. ...just as I'm crawling out of my hole. These are certainly trying times.
  6. Thanks. That was a long time ago, but I still play it every so often. The top - and tone - on that Larrivee has also darkened considerably. I need to make an updated recording before I get my post Corona haircut.
  7. Personally, I don’t think of this as a “poor man’s” neck reset at all. You still have to steam off the fretboard extension and bridge. You’re also risking the finish around the neck joint if you’re not careful and/or using the wrong tool for the job. That’s a lot of work. The only difference is that you don’t have to pull the 14th fret and work with the geometry of any sort of mortise/tenon or dovetail joint - which actually make aligning the neck less ambiguous IMO. To me, a true “poor man’s reset” is applying heat to the neck block and shifting it inside the body and regluing it - which brings along its own problems.
  8. I haven't recorded and posted anything to my YouTube channel in the longest time but here's a blast from the past when I was doing the local open mic over a decade ago. LOL - Corona has brought the mop back.
  9. You know how to get reverb on the cheap? Play in the bathroom. At least you know that it's full of you know what!
  10. Anything with “Tone” in its name is a gimmick AFAIC. Effects on an acoustic guitar is downright heresy in my book.
  11. I have one laying around here. Somebody gave it to me. They’re a one trick pony.
  12. The Texans have a tongue in groove bolt on neck joint similar to what you'd find on a solid body electric. The internal block is HUGE and there's no glue involved. I took the neck off and it weighs a ton. I could use it to play field hockey. I have a feeling if I fixed this guitar it would still sound like what it is: an overbuilt but underdesigned laminate.
  13. To be honest, I need a lot more practice at building though the two MJ bodies I made would likely make for a good solids body for a 12 string. I imagine that the bracing would have to be at least 5/8” tall with no scalloping whatsoever and a double truss rod. FWIW I already have a 12 string but it’s unplayable; several years ago I was gifted with an Epiphone Texan FT-160N whose neck block came unglued from the inside of the body, leaving the neck cantilevered into the soundhole and deforming the laminated top. The bridge (which has a floating adjustable saddle) also pulled up. I’m sure if I suited up the neck block with epoxy and some additional side braces I could get the neck angle back.
  14. Yeah, sorry about that. It kind of disqualifies the Taylor out of the gate. I included it because I actually tried the 254ce DLX, the 150e and the 458e and felt their action and neck profiles were very comfortable. I would actually like to try the Yamaha. Guild is pretty much the standard so I’m not surprised that it gets the recommendations it has.
  15. A couple of years ago I was intrigued by the 254ce DLX but that model seems to have been discontinued. Now I see that the 254ce is back without gloss and hardshell case. Personally, I don't need the CE and feel that a case and gloss finish are bigger selling points than the "bells and whistles" of a cutaway and pickup. It's caused me to look elsewhere and these 2 other models came up. I haven't included any other models or brands because these are all rosewood and "somewhat" wood.
  16. There's nothing to report other than some housekeeping. I don't suggest anybody here buy some French PED so I'm reported it. In the meantime, I've been sanding and filling gaps and body with a mixture of sawdust and thin CA glue. I've also been truing up the blank for the alternate neck. In doing so, I've been looking at my first build closely. The neck itself is VERY heavy but otherwise stable. I've been refraining from going at it with a spokeshave; I still don't know how to use one properly. I also noticed that the neck angle is off after 7 years so I need to address that. I've never thought it of as being 100% "done." The French polish has held up very well and the bridge has stayed firm so that's a good sign. I'll be experimenting with medium gauge Elixir Nanowebs on it. I'll get my Triscuits and wine out in celebration once that's accomplished. BTW, #3 is also moving forward somewhat. The back is I've been working on making a bending form and outside mold for an OM based off my Larrivee and my sides are waiting to be bent - something that I'm not equipped to do. I was hoping to make a Fox bender but even the blanket and steel slats are a bit pricey. My wife is working from home and likely won't be funding that since she witnessed USPS dropping off boxes from StewMac and RC Tonewoods so I'm probably going to have to put this aside and finally lay the porcelain time in her bathroom retreat and have a contractor come and put French doors on her adopted home office.
  17. I’d definitely look for a used one on your side of the pond. Depreciation and duties - not to mention the greater potential for damage in shipping from handling and the elements definitely make buying new unpalatable. There are plenty of cork sniffers and soundhole buffers abound who impulse buy because they “gotta have it” only to find that what they wanted was just the thrill of the hunt and are employing a “catch and release” protocol that ends of costing them money. Fortunately, you don’t sound like one of those types - which means that as a buyer you have a certain advantage.
  18. Yes, but which version of the D-28? It’s hard to keep track with all the different versions over the years. I think going with the current reimagined is your best bet but I can’t get on board with the trend with these VTS soundboards that are supposedly pre-aged to behave like a played-in guitar. Part of the joy of owning a guitar is “breaking it in.”
  19. The D-28 has been around for 89 years, though in different configurations. I don't see them going anywhere. As for value, if that's your motivation then there's the D-40,41,45. If you just want a D-28 though and they cost a lot and you're outside the US, well I'm sorry but it is what it is given the state of duties and tariffs.
  20. Ok. Yeah, I think that as soon as you get your hands to work you should learn to tweak things. Most drivers don’t know how to change the oil on their cars though.
  21. I assume that you're unfamiliar with the KISS protocol? When I quit taking lessons the first two times about 35-40 years ago most of my teachers dogmatically followed the Mel Bay method and had me playing Polly Wolly Doodle, Taylor guitars was an upstart and most people were raving about their Ovations and Gibsons. My final teacher was actually a certified psychologist and tossed the text books aside and didn't suggest I buy a better guitar; he actually talked to me and asked me what I wanted to play. Personally I think that care and maintenance of an instrument - and a healthy understanding of how it actually works - are things that are lacking in the advanced beginner level of guitar lessons. It amazes me how many "experienced" players can't change strings or even pull out the bridge pins properly. I'd stress learning those, trying different picks, experimenting with strings, having the instrument set up by a professional that - maybe even showing them how to use a capo - before even breathing a word about upgrading to somebody just starting out. Even bad guitars can be made to play or sound good to the player. Lord knows I ruined many instruments and blamed them for a time for my lack of progress in my decade of guitar lessons with 3 different teachers. It turned out the biggest obstacle was between my ears, not in my hands.
  22. To quote Rosanne Rosanna Danna, "It's always something!" The neck angle is set and the fretboard surface is flat but but the headstock is slightly too thin and twisted. I'm hoping that the addition of a back plate will somehow at least partly correct the issue. I also have the nut slot cut and a heel cap ready to install. I need to rout the truss rod channel slightly deeper though. If it all comes to naught, I have another blank all ready to go.
  23. Oh, I understand. I learned on a $35 piece of crap. I still have it, but it’s wall art now; the neck and top are toast. If the OP has actually played these two guitars already and could go either way then given the information he’s supplied I still say get the Seagull. They are not bad guitars. I’m sure he’ll stumble across a Taylor and fall in love later on but I’m not going to tell him “shift your focus from learning to play and start shopping around.” That’s counterintuitive IMO.
  24. Smh. It was a simple question: choice A or choice B. Don’t complicate things, guys.
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