daddymack

This comes up often...

You probably already know that the Model D was discontinued.

Have you tried contacting National?

at the bottom of the page is a contact us button....https://www.nationalguitars.com/tech

6 hours ago, Misha said:

I think it's not too bad for a budget guitar !! 😄

And yes, a top like this would be so cool!! 😛

oui, c'est tres jolie!

that should have been the front!!!

Fine....or coarse?

22 hours ago, DeepEnd said:

Yeah, I should've known better. On closer examination you're right. Apparently you're expected to power it with a phone charger? The input is rated 2a @ 5v so 10 Watts for best operation? AFAIK most chargers don't put out that much power so beyond "cheapo," just not a good idea.
I ended up buying one of these. With any luck he'll like it and if he doesn't it's returnable.

I have a couple of Donner mini pedals that work fine...that looks pretty good for $30! USB out, plus 12V and 18V...if he doesn't like it, he probably should not be involved with your daughter!😉

Very

gotta ask what that set you back...I know what the 'real ones' cost....[just as I was gonna post....]

I have been debating picking one of those Les Trems up...then I started worrying I would like it, and I'd have to put it on all my stop tails...so I have not done it...yet.

Thanks for letting us know, Misha!

I have heard good things about A&L guitars, but I have never seen one. Good hunting!

5 hours ago, badpenguin said:

You're right, it's probably on a circuit board. But NOT the big on/off switch I bet. I am sure there's room to drill and add a switch.

probably right through the 'C' in VIBRACLONE...but ksl doesn't wanna drill, baby, drill....so

I thought my 2-unit suggestion was simple and elegant....wrong, sure, but it does solve the primary issue....within the stated parameters.😉

17 hours ago, badpenguin said:

As DM said, an extension of that switch would be the best answer without modifying the housing. But it's going to break. He knows it, I know it, you know it, it will break with the first time you hit it a bit too hard, or you tap it sideways.

Drill the box, add a push/push DPDT switch, and lose some % of the value of the pedal when you go to sell it.  It's not like modifying a 57 Paul with a Floyd.

The issue with that approach is, of course, if that slide switch is mounted to the internal PCB, or attached somehow to the box, but my money is on the PCB, which makes the modification just a tad more PITA than just adding a new hole/switch...height clearance, etc....

ksl, Just buy a second unit and keep one set on chorale and the other on tremolo....

13 hours ago, DeepEnd said:

It ships with a cord that goes from a 2 prong standard plug to a USB plug. That appears to be what powers it. Not something I've seen up to now but who knows? Right now it looks doable but I'm still open to suggestions.

Deep, take a closer look at the cable on the left...definitely a USB/USB...I honestly don't think anyone would make a USB to a dual prong AC...USB is not designed to carry AC current.

So you could certainly use that USB with the charger converter from a cell phone...but the fact that they do not show [or apparently offer] an AC/DC converter is pretty 'el-cheapo'....

due to the location of the slide switch, I doubt there is much one could find that could extend it's height and girth with enough stability that would not run into the two knobs.

I would think one could 'craft' something that would extend below the switch...still, that would have to be either superglued to the switch, or the extension would have to be mechanically 'pinned' to the original switch tip, maybe a small set screw....or two

I see a 3d printer in your future, Kenny....

you need their app...Are we somehow better than google?

I seriously doubt the bridge pins are the cause of your issue...but the fact that the bridge is raising off the body means you need to have it re-glued. Will that solve the problem? Maybe not, but it is the first step. Once the bridge is solid, then re-do the truss rod.

Yeah, without knowing what pedals and how many, I would go with bp's first choice....Power Supply For Guitar Effect Pedals 10 Isolated Outputs 9V 12V 18V | eBay

you can buy it for me if you don't want to 'risk it' for him....

thread closed...I win...BWAHAHAHAHAHA!

7 hours ago, ksl said:

an olde, long gone Fender PS400,,  it had a pair of 6550, & a par of 6L6's & tons of other tubes,,,, it weighed just shy of a ton.... left my house once or twice then dumped it.... No regrets but it was certainly unique🥵🥵

You actually played through that? You are a brave man!

I have seen one, never heard it working.; around 450W, class AB, the head weighed about 90 lbs, IIRC; one thing I remember from the guy who was rebuilding it, it has to run 6550A tubes...anything else dies a swift and painful death. I don't know if he ever actually used it, but the tube complement cost more than he paid for the head when he got it. Definitely a monster...those, were, I believe, originally designed for bass [as was the Marshall Major 200W]. 

17 minutes ago, badpenguin said:

Get off my lawn!!!!

you call that a lawn?

1 hour ago, Hoot Owl said:

I almost left this place multiple times due to harsh moderation in Political Party. Anton doesn't run it like that. He's fair and friendly. By comparison, the old days were like a Southern Baptist convention.

Political Party wasn't/isn't even visible to non-members, so why was there a desire to sanitize it in every conceivable way?

When I first came to HC I was blown away by the rank humor. It was so entertaining, in a smart way. That's what I miss here. The crowd was younger back then.

we were younger then....

The right stuff? Well, sure, tung oil works, but requires days of drying/curing between coats and periodic maintenance. I would suggest Tru-oil.

On 11/26/2023 at 10:36 AM, zzach said:

how do you know 

 

I have been through lots of pedals over the past 50+ years...and I still have a bunch.... none of which 'define' my sound, but 'enhance' it.

7 hours ago, mohowski said:

Once again I am the winner!

Unfortunately, that is not the truth...

Thread closed....I win.

26 minutes ago, zzach said:

not a good set up but (want to change it ) it a Squier Strat and a practice amp not good setup but its what its worth 

We all started off with not such great gear...so don't worry about that.

Unfortunately, J Mascisc p-ups won't go on your strat without some serious modification. since they are Jazzmaster-style.

You also might probably be better off, if you really want that Dino Jr sound, to get a J. Mascis Squier Jazzmaster....

Just walk away.

You have no contract.

You have no obligation, especially after five years.

I was in a similar situation several years ago with a side project. We were working the bassist's originals for over a year, did several 'charity gigs', a birthday party, a Xmas show. I brought in a couple of originals of my own. When I suggested we start playing 'showcases', the bassist balked...I walked. To be fair, I had my regular band at the time, and was doing side gigs for other people, but I was 'invested' in the originals band enough that when the primary writer didn't have enough faith in what we were doing, then it was pointless.

Make certain you file a copyright on your original materials!!!

6 hours ago, GhostDrummer said:

Looking to replace my Daughter's Hagstrom P25M. Hagstrom tells me that their Seafarer 11 is the replacement but do not have the older specs to compare.

Does anyone happen to have these specs?

@Panhandler, I know you had one some years back. You link no longer works. I am hopeful that you retained the page.

Cheers!

GD©

What specs specifically are you looking for?

You have the P25M in hand, and the specs for the Seafarer are available....

That is a 3/4 Parlor, solid cedar top, laminated mahogany back and sides, right?

The Seafarer II is a solid spruce top...but I don't know if they make a 3/4....

Is there something 'magical' about the Hagstrom, that you want to keep with that brand?

On 11/18/2023 at 8:18 AM, kwakatak said:

That's the Enterprise, no bloody A, B, C, or D. I put that kit together when I was 15. I can't bear to throw it away even though it's fallen apart. I'm a second generation pack rat.

As for the Kay, it's got one of those adjustable bridges that I hate. This one is going to be more Martin-esque. I'm splitting the billets for bracing myself and making sure that the lap joint on the main X brace is tighter than it was on the 000 build - and still only be 1/4" thick (as opposed to 5/16" if it were a dreadnought. It's going to be about an inch smaller at the lower bout than that too. FWIW I haven't stuck a pick guard on either of my finished builds. I don't want there to be a tan line.

I stand corrected, and that was the best response on the Enterprise, Mr. Scott....

I'm still chuckling about 'tan line' [that is an old Kay 000-18, btw]