daddymack

6 hours ago, zzach said:

I do got a guitar and amp 

Great! What guitar and amp do you have?

Way Huge makes good stuff....

Depending on a pedal to get your 'tone' is a time-worn practice for beginners. Eventually, as your tastes and knowledge expand, you wind up a with a lot of pedals [ask me how I know....😉].

A 'complete idiot' would not ask for help, so you are well over that bar.....lack of experience and specific knowledge is not a problem...it is a challenge.

Have you tried out any superstrats in person?

Reading 'a list' [although a lot would depend on who made that list] is a good starting point, but you need to get hands-on experience to know what guitar will feel right for you.

Do you have friends who have superstrats?  Is there a store that carries a selection near you?

I will not offer a specific opinion as to model, as, frankly, I am not a superstrat kind of guy...but from the list I would likely go with an Ibanez as your starter.

I will suggest you not spend too much on the guitar, as you are also going to need an amp, pedals, cables...

I think you should get a guitar first, and then an amp...the pickups won't do much for you otherwise.😉

yeah, but do I need that mandolin?

"Estimated sale prices range from 300 pounds ($375) for an electric-acoustic mandolin to 500,000 pounds ($625,000) for a 1959 Gibson Les Paul Standard with a cherry red sunburst finish. A 1983 Les Paul that Knopfler played on Dire Straits’ chart-topping 1985 album “Brothers in Arms” and onstage that year at Live Aid has an estimated price of 10,000 to 15,00[sic] pounds."

3 hours ago, waayne coons said:

Does any one know how to trace the serial number on an Ovation Guitar to find out the year  it was made, and history of it !

Thanks Wayne 

That depends on the model and where and when it was made. See my post above yours, where I was informed by Ovation as to why it is hard to do [thanks to Fender].  Also there is a link to the best known serial checker in my Nov 13th post.

Loud is not the arbiter of what makes a good amp...that said, I had a Marshall Super Lead 100W [modded and biased hot] head with the 1960A slant top cab that was the loudest amp I ever owned. I could not stand in front of it indoors over 3.5, which is why I used it mainly for outdoor gigs. Finally just decided it was 5 times more amp than I needed, plus I had my first kid on the way, so I let that beast go [for a lot more than I got it for, too!].

I would guess though, that the Marshall Major, at 200W, would have been a little louder....but I have only read about them, never seen one or heard one, to my knowledge.

6 hours ago, badpenguin said:

I am a HUGE Roland fan. (Owning 3 of their amps.) The JC120 probably the cleanest sounding amp on the planet. Takes pedals quite well, though it's distortion circuit leaves much to be desired.

Again with Roland, the modern Blues Cubes are quite good, and affordable. baby modeling amps

Carvin made some decent SS amps, all following in the Fender tone mode.

And like DM has said, the Yamaha THR series of amps. From 5 watts, to 100 watts, all types of tones can be achieved.

 

Funny that you led off with the JC-120. I agree, except for the size and weight ; the JC-50 sounds exactly the same* , can keep up with a jazz drummer, and weighs about 1/3 less [40 lbs vs 62 lbs] than the 120, and it is easier to tote. Sadly, they no longer make that model, or the JC-90, 77,...plus you can find used JC-50s for around $300, but a new 120 will run around $1200-1300.

In that same vein, the old Polytone 'Mini-Brute' was a great SS amp in the ancient days....the original ones, not the 'II' version.

*although you lose the full stereo effect with the 1x12 cab, the other lighter option is the JC-40, which is a 2x10. The drawback is the power level is just on the light side unless you work with a well controlled drummer. The 40 weighs about half of a 120[~34 vs ~62] and they run about $700 new.

There are good solid state amps, and great ones [but they do not come cheap].

Quilter [I own an original Aviator*..and have gigged with it] would be my first choice of SS amplifiers. It is not a modeler, just a solid sounding amp with nice natural sounding overdrive.

Some folks like the Boss Katanas; personally I found them a bit harsh sounding with P90s...YMMV.

Yamaha THR series amps get great reviews, I have not tried one.

Kemper seems to be ruling the roost for SS modelers these days...but they are uber pricey....

I would steer clear of the Line 6 modelers. I have had the unfortunate experience of having to use one at a jam a few years ago and felt it was trying to be too many things, and doing none of them well...again, IMHO, YMMV...and will shortly be responsible for selling off an Amplifi 75 for a deceased old friend.[I doubt we will get a c-note for it, in perfect condition.]

There are also a huge number of 'Class D' 'amp in a box'/pedalboard amps, many with cabinet simulators.** 

*I am not a big fan of SS guitar amps, and I bought it on a whim [read: dirt cheap], not functioning, but I was able to ascertain the issue and repair it with minimal cost and time. I had to buy a speaker capable of handling the 200W rating, and their footswitch, but other than that, I enjoy it when I use it...it sits in my living room/studio, and is ready to hit the door for a gig when needed.

** I had one briefly [I don't even remember the manufacturer] that I won in a contest several years ago, but found it to lack 'definition' at low volumes, and it got 'mushy' when the guitar was cranked up, so I traded it [plus some of the other pedals I'd won in the same contest, and didn't care for] in for a Martin 12 string...and never looked back.

13 hours ago, kwakatak said:

Don’t worry, DM. This one will be fine. There are bound to be visual warts but the structure is good and that’s all that matters. 

You know I'm still watching build #3 closely...

oh, and the part I 'didn't get' was the Enterprise 'D' model on the next shelf down....

j/k...

you say this #4 is going to be a Kay-style 'concert'? Please do not nail the pickguard on...really, they made some real 'cannons' with the 'concert' models...but then they used metal tacks to attach the pickguard....was glue more expensive?   It just ruins the aesthetic for me. Which is sad because I almost bought one years ago that had a pickguard with a 'clean' Kay logo [most get worn away], but the tacks were rusted and had discolored the white plastic.

But I know you were not going to go there...sorry, I just got 'triggered' for a moment....😉

check reverb.com and e-Bay.

6 hours ago, kwakatak said:

Yup. I'm looking for the 1000 grit pad. The 100 done me wrong.

meh, what's a zero between friends....

I don't know why you would use a power sander on the purfling at all, unless it isn't properly seated.

Okay...I kind of get it, but...we won't hear much about this project until 6 months from now? [not that the thread will fall too far]

Thanks for the update...looking good!

As to the bleed-through? Meh, razorblade, X-Acto...it'll clean up.

I'd really like, at some point, to see the entire instrument....not finished, but the neck on the body,the pickguard*... just to see if I was right about the pickguard bringing 'cohesion' to the overall look....but not today, I know you are busy....

*don't hate me, but I was thinking a while back that a clear lucite pickguard, shaped the same way and painted black on the underside, might look cool....meh, just ignore me, I'm an inveterate kibbitzer...

23 hours ago, zzach said:

thank you for letting me know I am new to guitar so this dose help me.

 

You are welcome, zzach.

Poke around HC, there is a wealth of information already here, and there are experienced players here who may be able to help you.

On 10/6/2023 at 8:22 AM, Emunki said:

Was also told it needed to warm up before playing...after a few months of warmups the left channel was fine, but the overdrive channel started scratching out

when switched on.  The last time I "let it warm up" neither channel came on.  However - and this wasn't due to anger - I tapped the top of the amp and heard

the old familar 'scratchy' sound, both channels put out the same noise.  Plugged in a guitar and got intermittent licks in on both channels before signal loss.

Fuse is good, Sovtecs all shine with no fluctuation.  did some research but found nothing other than a techie in Poland that said it was usually a master pot.

This little amp is superior when it comes to the old marshall sound, and the two channel set up gives it options most amps don't have.  This unit has been

around for a while, and is quite popular - for good reason.  I would think by now someone has come up with the ultimate fix?

Well, an 'ultimate fix' is a beautiful idea, but when dealing with electronics, component failure is always a concern.  Having repaired amps for quite a while, my first question was: were these two Denver 'shops' certified Marshall repair shops, and...did both shops tell you to warm up the amp?

11 hours ago, DeepEnd said:

Congratulations. Happy New Guitar Day.  As for how the quality is possible, it largely has to do with labor costs in Asia.

and possibly child labor...but, hey, it's a guitar, right?

2 hours ago, zzach said:

this make me look poor but I don't have a large budget for gear so this is the stuff I'm looking at now. 

Marshall DSL1HR 1-watt Tube Head 449.99

Marshall MX112R 80-watt 1x12" Extension Cabinet 399.99

is this good and what is ti good for. 

I'm not even buying now.

Yes, sure, it is 'good', if all you intend to do is practice in your bedroom. That head is a great recording amp, using the 'emulation' output. 

It really depends on what you are going to do with the amp/cab. There isn't enough 'ooomph' in a 1W head to gig with a drummer. And, frankly, for the amount of money you are looking to spend, there are many better options.

If you are just going to noodle in your bedroom, for much less outlay, and, since you seem to prefer Marshalls, you could get a DSL5CR. Still not enough power to gig without mic-ing the cab, but a much more versatile set up for home practice. It offers the same '10%' power option, and the same 'emulation' out circuit for recording.

If you are willing to buy used, you could get a Marshall 5W combo for about $300. You could also get a used Marshall DSL20CR, for less than the head/cab you are looking at.  The 20W combo is definitely a gig-worthy amp, and can keep up with most drummers.

I got an answer from Ovation!

"The import model instruments do not have a specific date-coded serial number.  We used to keep both digital and written serial number records, but when Fender, who owned Ovation from 2006 to 2014, sold the brand they lost/destroyed all of those, and other, records.  Consequently, we no longer have a way do identify the exact year of manufacture for import models made before 2008 or 2009"

This actually is, sadly, believable...

49 minutes ago, DannyDayz33 said:

https://reverb.com/ca/item/963817-fender-custom-shop-60-s-all-rosewood-stratocaster-cc-2014

Look at it frin the front, that's all 1 piece

Those pics are too dark to tell anything from-er, frin

Most solid state 'practice amps' and 'beginner amps' fall into that category... a few right off the top of my head:

Peavey Rage

Line 6 Spider

Gorilla GG-20

I'm sure some people look fondly on these, but they are not good amps.

I've also never been fond of the old Gibson Lab series; yes, I know BB King endorsed them back in the day, but every one I ever played through sounded brittle and harsh with single coils, and muddy and mushy with humbuckers. YMMV

On 3/9/2023 at 2:50 PM, CC Hassell said:

I have an Ovation 12-String, Model 1866 with no visible serial on the oval sticker inside the guitar. I am at a loss. Any ideas?

the serial number should be on a different sticker closer to the neck...at least mine is....

I have yet to see a complete model by model up to date Serial number decoder. 

Has anyone tried contacting Ovation?

https://www.ovationguitars.com/en/contact

Okay, Ovation advises the curious to go here: http://www.ovationtribute.com/Date your Ovation.html

Unfortunately serial numbers only go up to 2013....

I have submitted a query to their customer support team...but I am not holding my breath.

There seems to be no information on the Chinese-built Celebrities anywhere.

Why are you certain there is no separate fretboard or no stripe?

I did find the G&L page on their 'Bi-cut' method, but the neck is still two pieces, and no mention of a fretboard.

https://glguitars.com/non-compression-truss-rod/

Short of boring a hole the length of the neck from the 'heel', I don't see another way to do this, and to keep a drill that length from 'wandering' is a engineering feat I would be interested in watching.