Members rakester Posted March 2, 2010 Members Share Posted March 2, 2010 I am planning to buy a neck from Warmoth for a build I am doing. However I do not fancy paying the hefty price tag of having them do the finishing on it. Also I want the wood to feel as raw as possible without having it lacquered all up I was wondered what kind of finish I could use that is easy to apply and seals the wood on the neck? Would simply using something like tru-oil work? The only issue I have with oils is that Warmoth does not seem to back there warranty if a neck has just been oiled. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jds22 Posted March 2, 2010 Members Share Posted March 2, 2010 I've used a satin or matte tung oil on 3 Carvin necks. Feels great, just like bare wood. Not sure how durable it is or how it might affect Warmoth's warranty. It's also pretty much idiot proof to apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Prages Posted March 2, 2010 Members Share Posted March 2, 2010 Lots of people use tru-oil. I didn't put any finish at all on either of my Warmoth maple necks...warranty be damned. Both of them have been extremely stable...hardly ever even need seasonal adjustments. I've had one of them for 8 years and the other for 7, and haven't had any trouble at all out of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rakester Posted March 2, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 2, 2010 Thanks for the input guys @jds22 - Sounds perfect then @Prages - Cool, screw the warranty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted March 2, 2010 Members Share Posted March 2, 2010 If I'm not mistaken Warmoth recognizes Tru-oil as a hardening, therefore warrrantable finish. Having said that, Tru-Oil is awesome. I used it on my Warmoth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mmkco Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Does tru oil "Yellow" over time or does it just stay looking like the natural color of the wood? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaleH Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Got this Tru-0il at Wall Mart. It's what I'm going to use. Aerosol But you can rub it in by hand. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=773053&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=649 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaleH Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Does tru oil "Yellow" over time or does it just stay looking like the natural color of the wood? This stuff I got says it does not yellow or crack. It is tinted though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaleH Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 This may be helpfull.http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=15094 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Citizen_Insane Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Tru-Oil. I've used it on 2 necks and it feel great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarstar81 Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Yes, Tru Oil is a hard finish that satisfies the warranty! And it feels great. I say do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members EADGBE Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 I like pure tung oil myself. Just be careful with the oil soaked rags as they can spontaneously combust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rakester Posted March 3, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Thanks for the fantastic responses guys Tru oil it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted March 3, 2010 Moderators Share Posted March 3, 2010 If I'm not mistaken Warmoth recognizes Tru-oil as a hardening, therefore warrrantable finish.Having said that, Tru-Oil is awesome. I used it on my Warmoth Yes, Warmoth recognise Tru-oil as a hard finish and is hence warrantable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted March 3, 2010 Moderators Share Posted March 3, 2010 Thanks for the fantastic responses guys Tru oil it is As you're in the Uk and Tru-oil isn't always easily available, London Gunstock Oil is a great alternative http://www.napieruk.com/stockcare.html#care1 Sorry, there's quite a few Ebay instances http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Birchwood-Casey-TRU-OIL-Wood-Stock-Refinisher-3oz_W0QQitemZ360186204935QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET?hash=item53dcc55307 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted March 3, 2010 Moderators Share Posted March 3, 2010 Does tru oil "Yellow" over time or does it just stay looking like the natural color of the wood? It's changes the tone of the wood on application slightly, but does change with age also, underneath the pickguard on my Strat ( 3 years old) it is very noticeable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bigconig Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Yeah tru oil is fantastic. I am terrible at applying finishes, but my 3 Warmoths turned out great. It does yellow with age too. My Strat is a little over a year old- and my tele I just did a couple weeks ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members phreddy Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 I like pure tung oil myself. Just be careful with the oil soaked rags as they can spontaneously combust. +1 on that. I almost burnt the house down. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mutant_guitar Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Yeah tru oil is fantastic. I am terrible at applying finishes, but my 3 Warmoths turned out great. It does yellow with age too. My Strat is a little over a year old- and my tele I just did a couple weeks ago http://www.pbase.com/bigconig/image/121916136/large.jpg is that neck stained? or is that just what the aged TO looks like? either way, I like that color *edit wow, i just found this poking around google. http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?p=378046&sid=73bcceeb926c2b45e4f8a15143ca497f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 As I mentioned I am a tru-oil user and fan. I tried using it on a fretboard as well, but it is very difficult to control from damming up on the frets so I use it everywhere except the fretboard. Curious, what do you use on the fretboard when you tru-oil the rest of the neck? I would assume shellac and / or spray lacquer ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bigconig Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 I've always tru oiled everything. I just use lots of light coats, hitting with 0000 steel wool between. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members pekelnik Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 I ordered a neck from musikraft instead of warmoth. They already put shellac on (which can be used as a base for tru oil) and with shellac they honor the warranty. Also you can buy with less hassle and they have more options. Prices are about the same unless you want a very basic warmoth config. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarcapo Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 Tru-oil is a "drying oil" The components are kind of secret but my guess is that it's got shellac and linseed oil in there plus some hardeners. A traditional finish that's been around for hundreds of years would be French polishing with straight shellac and a drying oil like linseed oil or walnut oil. Basically you go down to Home Depot and buy a pure shellac in a can like Zinser's Seal Coat. You rub it on with a rag and maybe lubricate the rag with a few drops of walnut or linseed oil to keep the rag from sticking. The oil rises to the surface and you can wipe it down in a few hours with a dry rag to remove the excess oil. What oil doesn't rise to the surface incorporates into the finish. If you want to build up more finish you just repeat the process. The advantage of this finish over something like tru-oil is that it's harder and can build up more without being soft over time. It's a more traditional finish associated with antiques and musical instruments pre-1930's and the advent of spray finishing. All Martin and Gibson guitars were finished this way up until spray nitro came along in the late 1920's. Here's the back of a mahogany guitar I French polished recently. It's great stuff because it can act like a sanding sealer, filler, and finish all in one. By using one material for everything, you can a purer optical quality and it hardens uniformly over time. It ages without the brittle decay of nitro and without the old plastic look of poly. It feels great like a piece of hardwood polished from use in the hand. I love shellac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaleH Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 You can use this product to tint the neck before you tru oil. Or Stew Mac amber vintage dye. https://www.woodessence.com/ColorFX-Dye-Concentrates-C12.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted March 3, 2010 Members Share Posted March 3, 2010 I prefer minwas satin wipe on poly. To me it feels like a bare neck and it does honor the Whoremouth warranty. It yellows a bit over time. BTW I got better service & a great neck @ USACG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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