In the shop

[meandi]

Wow! That's beautiful. Is that a brass pedestal in the photo? It's only by biting off more than we (think we) can chew that we ever really learn something. I would love to see this idea become reality.

 

 

Yes it is beautiful.

I'm unsure as to what the pedestal material is.

I'm going to build my version of it, that's what the prototype work is all about.

I've already successfully built the body once on my first build, so just a matter of sorting out the specifics of the neck mount.

[MahaloVision]

There was a lot of discussion on the Parker archtops over at the MIMF. Might want to check the archives there.

[meandi]

There was a lot of discussion on the Parker archtops over at the MIMF. Might want to check the archives there.

I read most of that.
On the "small company luthiers" page over at TGP, they had quite a discussion on it a year or so back, as well.

I found some vids online where Parker was talking about it...It's a very light guitar...his sides/top/backs are considerably thinner than what Benedetto specs on the one I built...Parker has taken a different approach on his top bracing to compensate for the lighter pannels.
I haven't been able to find many specifics on the bracing other than this picture.



It's an X brace configuration & stylishly done, but there were some additional features That I read about that I can't recall at this time.

Parallel bracing is also used in archtops & is the configuration used in my build.


According to Benedetto...
X bracing requires that the top be carved thicker to carry string loads without buckling & will have a softer mellow sound.
Parallel bracing allows the top to be carved thinner & produces a louder voice with greater projection.
Both are laid out so that the braces pass directly under the contact area of the bridge feet for maximum sound transferrence from the bridge to the top.

So, Parker says he's building his stuff lighter & using X bracing, while Benedetto recomends that X braced tops should be built slightly heavier...this tweaks my intrigue meter into the red, wanting to know the specifics of the engineering involved.

[MahaloVision]

 

So, Parker says he's building his stuff lighter & using X bracing, when Benedetto recomends that X braced tops should be built slightly heavier...this tweaks my intrigue meter into the red, wanting to know the specifice of the engineering involved.

 

 

Yes, it is an interesting question. From the picture, it appears that he's completely forgoing the lap joint which is where a lot of the strength in an X brace comes from. Usually these are tight as possible in a dry fit. Do you know if he's sandwiching some graphite in those? With the big hole right in the middle of the X, I'd be tempted to throw that in there.

 

The splay of the braces looks pretty normal with the lower ends running under the bridge feet.

[meandi]

Yes, it is an interesting question. From the picture, it appears that he's completely forgoing the lap joint which is where a lot of the strength in an X brace comes from. Usually these are tight as possible in a dry fit. Do you know if he's sandwiching some graphite in those? With the big hole right in the middle of the X, I'd be tempted to throw that in there. The splay of the braces looks pretty normal with the lower ends running under the bridge feet.

 

 

I haven't read of any composites in the bracing.

I have read that the neck/pedestal has a carbon fiber core like a truss system that is fitted into the neck wood.

Obviously, he's not leaking too many details, wanting to maintain his upper hand in this type construction.

I've scoured the web looking for construction shots & found nothing.

 

I have pondered the possibility that he's off-setting his lighter top by merely adding strategic mass to the bracing.

Which raises the question in my mind reguarding the dynamic between lighter top/heavier braces...could be merely trading tit for tat.

I don't know...would like to know.

[meandi]

From out of the past.
I really like doing this stuff!

[meandi]

Becoming this.

[atrox]

Here is how far I got on my new body today. still have to round edges and carve the contours.

[thick_mike]

From out of the past. I really like doing this stuff!

That was the part of my first build that I was most nervous about. I really enjoyed it though. Do you use the rasp to remove all of the wood? I used a spokeshave for the rough shaping, I love taking those little curls off the neck. I had to remind myself that I had to stop before I went the whole way through!

[meandi]

Here is how far I got on my new body today. still have to round edges and carve the contours.

Looking good!
Are you going to stain it black or leave it natural?

[meandi]

That was the part of my first build that I was most nervous about. I really enjoyed it though. Do you use the rasp to remove all of the wood? I used a spokeshave for the rough shaping, I love taking those little curls off the neck. I had to remind myself that I had to stop before I went the whole way through!

I use this farriers rasp, that's left from when I had horses, for the bulk of the work on neck shaping.
It removes a lot of material in a hurry, yet is very controlable.
The smaller half round shown above I use for working the radius into the neck heel & headstock.

[Jkater]

I'm finishing the body of my parts-tele this week before putting my new bg pups in. I have ordered an "oil and wax" mixture from a reputable german supplier of guitar parts, etc. so it's supposed to work. No clue myself really. Just hope it will turn out good. Has anyone heard of this mix of oil and wax for guitar bodies? Here's the tele getting gutted:

[atrox]

Looking good! Are you going to stain it black or leave it natural?

 

 

natural. i want it that guitar to have the same look, just a different body

[lachupakabra361]

had a friend come over today. he said his guitar wouldnt stay in tune so i told him to bring it on over.

( the wood on the fingerboard and headstock!)
i looked it over, an other than being dirty i couldnt find anything wrong with it.
Other than this of course:











his reply, " oh yeah, it started doing that a while ago... could that be why the action seemed to be getting higher?"
Guitarists!!! and this guy is no noob either. gah.
anyway, i took the string tension off of it and said i would fix it. however, ive never done something like this before! i know i can tackle it, but most of my repairs are on solid bodys. i know guys like meandi do this kind of repair while they're waiting for their toast to pop up but i dont! any tips? i have Dan Erlewines guitar repair book (paper goldmine!) which i will be studying indepth before i tackle this. oh here is a pic of the inside under the bridge. anything look wrong in there?


Thanks!

[lachupakabra361]

Uke update!
Sorry for the pic heavy post but i finally got some work done on this thing!
taped off the top where the fingerboard and nut will go like so:



next i rigged this up to place the bridge so it can also be taped off.


Closeups:



After everything was taped up i primed the headstock and the top.


finally i decided to oil the bridge and fretboard. i used a teak oil finish. brushed it on, let it sit and then wiped off the excess.
Before:


After:


Sorry once again for the heavy post! just wanted to show what ive been up to:wave:

[Doctor49]

however, ive never done something like this before! i know i can tackle it, but most of my repairs are on solid bodys. i know guys like meandi do this kind of repair while they're waiting for their toast to pop up but i dont! any tips? i have Dan Erlewines guitar repair book (paper goldmine!) which i will be studying indepth before i tackle this. oh here is a pic of the inside under the bridge. anything look wrong in there? Thanks!

me too!
I am staring at my 60s flat-top with exactly the same problem.
No idea what to do or where to start so I am letting it settle into a tropical humidity after 50 years in UK.

I will watch to see if you get advice!!!!! and let you know if I do!

[lachupakabra361]

me too! I am staring at my 60s flat-top with exactly the same problem. No idea what to do or where to start so I am letting it settle into a tropical humidity after 50 years in UK. I will watch to see if you get advice!!!!! and let you know if I do!

Ouch.. sounds like a plan! one nice thing about living in a humid environment is whenever anyone posts a thread about the best way to humidify your guitars in the winter you can just go ahahahahahahahaa.....haha..ha... i remember when i had to put on a jacket to go outside for months on end....

[Doctor49]

What's a jacket??

Oh - its what you wipe the sweat off guitars with!

[meandi]

I'm finishing the body of my parts-tele this week before putting my new bg pups in. I have ordered an "oil and wax" mixture from a reputable german supplier of guitar parts, etc. so it's supposed to work. No clue myself really. Just hope it will turn out good. Has anyone heard of this mix of oil and wax for guitar bodies? Here's the tele getting gutted:

What's the brand name of the product?
I'm a big fan of natural & oil finished guitars & this has tweaked my interest.
Keep us informed on the progress/results please!

[meandi]

natural. i want it that guitar to have the same look, just a different body

 

 

Thats going to look great!

I find the darker lines along the centerline quite attractive on that piece of wood.

[reachjkh]

Looks like a lot of fun going on in the shop this week.

[reachjkh]

You know. After GD's blacktop is done, and you get on to your archtop, you're going to need a side project for when you need to clear your head. I nominate this one. You really could knock this one out with relative ease compared to when you started it. Someone should really be shredding on this thing.

[meandi]

had a friend come over today. he said his guitar wouldnt stay in tune so i told him to bring it on over. his reply, " oh yeah, it started doing that a while ago... could that be why the action seemed to be getting higher?" Guitarists!!! and this guy is no noob either. gah. anyway, i took the string tension off of it and said i would fix it. however, ive never done something like this before! i know i can tackle it, but most of my repairs are on solid bodys. i know guys like meandi do this kind of repair while they're waiting for their toast to pop up but i dont! any tips? i have Dan Erlewines guitar repair book (paper goldmine!) which i will be studying indepth before i tackle this. oh here is a pic of the inside under the bridge. anything look wrong in there? Thanks!

What did you use for the inside body shot?

The main thing you're looking for in there is any obvious glue fail/separation of the bracing from the top.

These pics came from this thread, which may give you more visual info.

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?t=2636879

I've got this little travel iron that heats to about 400 deg.


I removed the handle so I could get it inside the body for removing the bridge plate on this particular guitar.
Wrapped some foil around a couple of shim sticks to reflect the heat away from the finish while heating the bridge to soften the glue for removal.


Use a thin flexable blade to separate the bridge from the body.
The one I use was a cake iceing spreader.
Don't force it, you can feel when the glue has softened.


Sometimes they come off a little cleaner than this, sometimes not.
If any large splinters separate with the bridge, It's a good idea to use a little more heat & peel them off for replacement in the top.
Glue is not at it's best when It's asked to fill voids.
Main thing is that the bridge bottom & the top need to be cleaned up back to raw wood for best adhesion.


I use snug fitting drill bits as locater pins to keep the bridge in place while clamping.
Do a dry fit to get your clamping arrangement worked out & check the string lay along the neck.
Couple of pieces of tape give you another visual reference for precise placement of the bridge.


The clamping caul springs down for pressure on the center & transfers down pressure out to the ends.
Once you've got the bridge securely clamped in place, pull the locater pins before the glue sets...otherwise you're in for some serious "fun" later trying to get them out.


Hope this helps...have fun.

[meandi]

You know. After GD's blacktop is done, and you get on to your archtop, you're going to need a side project for when you need to clear your head. I nominate this one. You really could knock this one out with relative ease compared to when you started it. Someone should really be shredding on this thing.

Would look good on you!

[newbuilder]

It does suit him! I have been looking at that thread recently...have you ever thought about selling ebooks or some tutorial style luthier training books? Your so good and detailed with your builds and repairs:idk: