I hate asking, but I need a peculiar rig and need some advice...

[ec437]

 

 

 

 

Fixed...

[ezweave]

Fixed...

 

 

+1

[Crescent Seven]

I'm not too into buying "for now" gear.

For now, buy that combo amp. When you get a car, buy a 4x10 cab and bring that to gigs as well. That 700rb combo will power an extension cab nicely. Six 10's sound awesome. Or a 1x15. Or whatever.

If you buy an SVT head and an 8x10 and try hauling it on a subway, the first thing you'll say to yourself is "I'll do this for now, until I can sell it and get something smaller and lighter.":D You'll say the same thing with an SVT 4x10, they weigh almost as much as the 8x10's do.

Plus, when you roll up on a club with that GK combo, the soundman will actually consider putting you in the FOH mix. Drag in the SVT fridge and he'll laugh at the thought of it.

I dunno, get what works best. I'm just trying to steer you in a direction that compliments your lifestyle as much as your musical style. Go crank one of those combos up at GC, you'll see that it's not a wimpy little bitch.
C7

[Crescent Seven]

So handling isn't an "it will blow up issue" as much as it is an "it will sound like crap" issue. It will only blow if your amp happens to generate more power than the speaker can handle, which will blow the speaker (that is the only way speakers "blow"). There is a matter of resonance frequency, but that doesn't really destroy the speaker (on the V30 its right around 75 Hz, a place that guitarists can easily get to).

 

 

The frequencies which produce the highest level of current, and therefore heat in the coil, are the sub-60hz frequencies. If you're riding the low E and the volume is up high enough, you're going to heat up those voice coils, nevermind any mechanical damage from over-excursion.

C7

[WynnD]

First of all, TELL YOUR GUITARIST TO TURN DOWN! He doesn't need more than 20 watts to give you headaches and hearing loss.

 

I play both bass and keys. I just use a bass amp with speakers that reach 5000 htz. (Many already do that.) Last night we gigged in a small club with very little setup space. I used a 120 watt Hartke kickback 12 and played one song on bass through it. It was large enough and I always use it for rehearsal. (Easiest to carry.) I have a 350 watt Hartke that I use for larger gigs and outdoors. (Two cabinets a 4-10 and single 15)

 

By the way we play old R&B and Rock. We're not a low volume country band. Many people don't realize how little wattage they need to be loud enough without chasing away clients.

 

I once ran an outdoor event for an ecology group off of solar panels. They told me that the panels were rated a total of 800 watts. There was a battery in the system, but I was told it wasn't drawing anything. The Pa and groups amps were all off the grid, it was 107 db 70 feet from the band. The speakers used are efficient but that was less than I expected.

 

My current three way system pushes 1000 watts to the audience. It should be drawing as much as 2000 watts or nearly 17 amps. When you add the 400 watts for the monitors, I should be tripping the 15 amp circuit breakers on that single power strip. It's never happened. (And would be most likely to occur outdoors.)

[philthygeezer]

 

http://www.traynoramps.com/products.asp?type=9&cat=57&id=340

 

They make a few other KB amps with multiple input channels as well. They work fine for bass too.

[isaac42]

 

 

I don't want to go too far into "your ignorance is showing" territory, but we're already there. I'll try to be gentle.

 

Just because a driver has decent output well into the bass range at one watt (or less) does not mean that it can handle bass frequencies at any appreciable power or volume. You posted a frequency response graph, which is nice, but what is the Xmax? Xmech? It is quite possible that the driver shown will bottom out when the bass is driven through it at sufficient volume to be heard, resulting in driver damage.

 

Yes, it really is a damage thing.