Members scheczudio Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 In your point of view, how does basswood compare with alder or ash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ec437 Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 I thought alder and ash were bass woods! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members scheczudio Posted November 27, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GRANKOR Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 softer than either, needs a hard poly finish to prtoect it. Sounds fine IMO, a lot of Japanese Fenders are basswood. My Squier Telebass is basswood and it's my second favourite bass I own Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members scheczudio Posted November 27, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 That was exactly what I was thinking of getting! A MIJ Fender Jazz. I realized the models that use basswood are a lot cheaper than the other models, which used alder/ash instead. So I wanted to know a bit more about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members terminalnation Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 Got any yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GRANKOR Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 That was exactly what I was thinking of getting! A MIJ Fender Jazz. I realized the models that use basswood are a lot cheaper than the other models, which used alder/ash instead. So I wanted to know a bit more about it I think you'd be getting a fine bass then. Any pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Thumper Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 Check here for a comparison. For a Fender-style bass, swamp ash is my favorite for light weight and resonance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members fretless Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 [YOUTUBE]i3FnQMSD4Zg[/YOUTUBE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Perfessor Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 I never liked it because it dents way too easy and the tone seemed too bright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Darkstorm Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 Very resonant wood. Thinks would be little warmer sounding then alder. Basswood can be excellent choiuce, some of the top pyrotechnics guitar players use basswood body guitars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members scheczudio Posted November 27, 2008 Author Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 Thanks for you replies Because of the exchange rate, (1 AUD = 62 JPY) my initial plan, which was to try and get used models, either a Fender Japan 75 reissue, the non-export model Aerodyne Jazzes, Aria pro II SB 1000 or a Bacchus Handmade model isn't really possible atm. My price range went from up to 80,000 yen to about 50,000 yen But I'll probably still find something cool over there. We'll see Here are pics of the model I was thinking of: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members knuckle_head Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 Basswood, swamp ash and poplar will have more inherent girth than most other species. They all are susceptible to dings and such as they are all soft. Compensating for that with a hard, penetrating finish will alter its natural resonance. All are right fine bass body woods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Brother Mango Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 Basswood, swamp ash and poplar will have more inherent girth than most other species. They all are susceptible to dings and such as they are all soft. Compensating for that with a hard, penetrating finish will alter its natural resonance.All are right fine bass body woods. What would be a "hard penetrating finish"? Would it be something a person could buy at Home Depot and not be a complicated process? I've heard that a poly finish is not a DIY project. What's a real DIY project/material that could protect a soft wood? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Cpt. Spliff Posted November 27, 2008 Members Share Posted November 27, 2008 I've heard that a poly finish is not a DIY project. What's a real DIY project/material that could protect a soft wood? Will somebody post that picture of the furry guitar, please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Rusty the Scoob Posted November 28, 2008 Members Share Posted November 28, 2008 I have a DIY poly on my bass. Other than still smelling like poly finish, I think it came out fine. http://www.flickr.com/photos/danfcrea/sets/72157606940563012/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members countrybass Posted November 28, 2008 Members Share Posted November 28, 2008 You guys said everything I was gonna say. It's lighter, cheaper, dents easier, and in my opinion just doesnt sound as good. Although it's subtle. I personally prefer an alder body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members fretless Posted November 28, 2008 Members Share Posted November 28, 2008 I have a DIY poly on my bass. Other than still smelling like poly finish, I think it came out fine. http://www.flickr.com/photos/danfcrea/sets/72157606940563012/ Awesome bass ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members blueyedmule Posted November 28, 2008 Members Share Posted November 28, 2008 Some sort of Line-X or Line-A-Bed would definitely protect that soft wood. My 57 RI is made of some pretty soft stuff, I caught a corner (not very hard) and got a quick education on just how soft that wood is. BTW, I've hauled around 48,000 lbs of body and neck blanks from the sawmill for Fender on many occasion. My company sends them down to Corona, Ca. It's always kinda cool when I pick those up. I should say my ex-company. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members knuckle_head Posted November 28, 2008 Members Share Posted November 28, 2008 What would be a "hard penetrating finish"? Would it be something a person could buy at Home Depot and not be a complicated process?I've heard that a poly finish is not a DIY project. What's a real DIY project/material that could protect a soft wood? Poly is certainly a DIY thang. It is a suitable finish for a bass but it isn't what I was getting at when I said 'hard, penetrating'. Fender did this interesting process on opaque finishes in the mid-80s. They seem to have dipped or coated the bodies in an epoxy that was as much as 1/16" on some instruments. This stuff was difficult to ding and was damn near impossible to strip off. One of the finishes you could come by is a two part sealing epoxy - it wicks into wood and feels as though it cures almost immediately. In truth it will take 12 hours to cure, but it reinforces the outter surface of the wood to nearly double the natural characteristics of the species depending on its porosity. If you chase that with a two part finish you will have something near-bullet proof. But you will also change the tone of the body a bit. This may not be a bad thing, but it will have an affect. A boat supply shop is most likely to carry this sort of thing. Anyone that specializes in epoxy supplies will at least be able to come by it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Perfessor Posted November 28, 2008 Members Share Posted November 28, 2008 Poly is certainly a DIY thang. It is a suitable finish for a bass but it isn't what I was getting at when I said 'hard, penetrating'.Fender did this interesting process on opaque finishes in the mid-80s. They seem to have dipped or coated the bodies in an epoxy that was as much as 1/16" on some instruments. This stuff was difficult to ding and was damn near impossible to strip off. One of the finishes you could come by is a two part sealing epoxy - it wicks into wood and feels as though it cures almost immediately. In truth it will take 12 hours to cure, but it reinforces the outter surface of the wood to nearly double the natural characteristics of the species depending on its porosity. If you chase that with a two part finish you will have something near-bullet proof. But you will also change the tone of the body a bit. This may not be a bad thing, but it will have an affect.A boat supply shop is most likely to carry this sort of thing. Anyone that specializes in epoxy supplies will at least be able to come by it. A deeper penetrating boat repair epoxy might be even better. They have thin epoxy meant to find leaks in wooden boats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members knuckle_head Posted November 29, 2008 Members Share Posted November 29, 2008 A deeper penetrating boat repair epoxy might be even better. They have thin epoxy meant to find leaks in wooden boats. Yup... same stuff that by some companies is called Rot Fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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