Members moody Posted December 10, 2005 Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 Hi. I haven't been around much lately. I'm currently putting a set of budget speakers (p.audio HP-15w) in a couple of old 2x15 + horn cabinets. I haven't figured out specs, I'm just trying to get these cabinets working cheaply. The cabinets are marine ply, however the speakers don't quite fit (it's close, maybe a millimetre out. What's the best way to expand the size of the hole, file? sandpaper? I know it will be hours of elbow breaking labour either way. *disclaimer as to why I am putting cheap speakers in these cabinets* These cabinets belong to a friend of mine, they have been hanging around for years and are currently loaded with 1 etone 805, 1 etone 802, one dead etone 802 and an empty space. We just want to get them running to use as a rehearsal system in the garage. We both have systems to use for actual gigging that aren't half as heavy of massive as these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kayak Posted December 10, 2005 Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 wood rasp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members abzurd Posted December 10, 2005 Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 Maybe a "sanding bit" for your drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members preacherman672 Posted December 10, 2005 Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 I second the sanding bit but it works best in a high speed rotary tool like a Dremel(sp?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted December 10, 2005 Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 I'll venture to bet the replacement speakers are of Asian ancestry and are maybe not quite to the spec's that the traditional conponenets are anufactured to. This is not uncommon. (Excluding some JBL cast frames with the slightly radiused under-flange). Since there is a taper on the punch press forming dies on all stamped steel speaker baskets, you may find the you need to increase the diameter only slightly at the top surface ofthe hole only, so a 1/2-round rasp will round over the edge nicely. It generally doesn't take a lot. If it's the entire driver basket that doesn't fit, with the taper that means you have a fair amount of work ahead of you though. edit for gross spelling error!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bigmike216 Posted December 10, 2005 Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 Just pop a sanding drum into your drill, put a coarse sleeve on it, and go to town. Be prepared for a dusty mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ear Abuser Posted December 10, 2005 Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 I've used something called a rotary rasp- It looks a lot like the sanding drum pictured above only with rasp teeth-cuts faster than sanding.It chucks up in s tandard drill. I think it will work better than a dremel in this application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members moody Posted December 10, 2005 Author Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 OK, I have a dremel. Just have to find the right attatchment for it. (I've got to drill new bolt holes as well ) However, I think the rasp for me would be the way to go with more predictability as to where the dust goes. It really won't take much work I think. (for one of the holes, the speaker goes 95% in, just doesn't sit flush, the others aren't much worse) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tlbonehead Posted December 10, 2005 Members Share Posted December 10, 2005 Originally posted by agedhorse I'll venture to bet the replacement speakers are of Asian ancestry and are maybe not quite to the spec's that the traditional conponenets are anufactured to. This is not uncommon. (Excluding some JBL cast frames with the slightly radiused under-flange).Since there is a tatep on the punch press forming dies on all stamped steel speaker baskets, you may find the you need to increase the diameter only slightly at the top surface ofthe hole only, so a 1/2-round rasp will round over the edge nicely. It generally doesn't take a lot. If it's the entire driver basket that doesn't fit, with the taper that means you have a fair amount of work ahead of you though. If you can just taper them a little,a router and 15 degree or so tapered bit will work well and take very little time or effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted December 11, 2005 Members Share Posted December 11, 2005 Originally posted by Ear Abuser I've used something called a rotary rasp- It looks a lot like the sanding drum pictured above only with rasp teeth-cuts faster than sanding.It chucks up in s tandard drill. I think it will work better than a dremel in this application. French tickler??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 I've tried: 1) routers2) rasps3) drum sanders I've found that a 4" hand-grinder works as good or better than anything else. You might want to practice on a piece of scrap wood before you lay into the cabinets. With a little practice you might find the hand-grinder is easy to control to take off just the right amount. I've developed a technique where I use the guard as the guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dboomer Posted December 11, 2005 Members Share Posted December 11, 2005 Roto-Zip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 Originally posted by dboomer Roto-Zip! I've tried that too. I found the Roto-Zip was not very controllable and easily breaks those like $6 ea. bits when trying to shave a little off 3/4" plywood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dboomer Posted December 11, 2005 Members Share Posted December 11, 2005 If you go in one direction it works better than the other. I always remember that right after I've gone the wrong direction. I never remember which way you have control til I screw something up ... oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ctardi Posted December 11, 2005 Members Share Posted December 11, 2005 Go in the direction as if it were a wheel moving. if that makes sence... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bigmike216 Posted December 11, 2005 Members Share Posted December 11, 2005 opposite of if it were a wheel. you want it to drag the cutter across the surface, not propel the tool around the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ctardi Posted December 11, 2005 Members Share Posted December 11, 2005 Yea well, arn't we all alowed to miss a word every now and then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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