Jump to content

What's the best way to add a subwoofer to a powered mixer?


Recommended Posts

  • Members

I just got one of the JBL Mpro's subs pretty cheap and I'll be driving it with a bridged RMX1450 until I can get something bigger. Should I drive if with a feed from the "Main Out" or send a mix from the "Monitor Out" (allowing me to keep the kick drum out of the tops).

 

Related - do I run some of the bass guitar thru it too?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
Originally posted by pktaskes

I just got one of the JBL Mpro's subs pretty cheap and I'll be driving it with a bridged RMX1450 until I can get something bigger. Should I drive if with a feed from the "Main Out" or send a mix from the "Monitor Out" (allowing me to keep the kick drum out of the tops).


Related - do I run some of the bass guitar thru it too?

Why on earth would you want to keep the kick out of the top cabs? It won't sound like a kick at all then. That makes no sense. As for the amp/sub relationship, that amp bridged is already way too much power for a single woofer. Why would you want to get something bigger? Anyway, here's how you'd connect it. There should be "main out" and "power amp in" jacks somewhere. Take your signal from the main out to the crossover. Then the low out on the crossover goes to the sub amp. And the high out on the crossover goes back into the power amp in jack on the powered mixer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

That would have worked on my last poweered mixer but the Yammy EMX512 doesn't have a a return for the power section (power amp in). I wan't planning on running a crossover as I just wanted to add a little pop to our smaller rig while keeping it simple. All the EQs, x-overs, additional amps the such are tied up in my Soundcraft mixer/gig rack.

 

It's a dual 15" sub running at 4 ohms. Sorry didn't mention it. 500w avg/2,000 peak. Tops are JBL MP415's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

They have a good amount of juice (not the 500w/ch they claim but enought to drive my JBL's nicely) and they are SOOO light and small enough to fit on a window ledge (the reason I went with the 512 and not the 5014). The Samson I had right before this had routing options up the wahzoo though.

 

Never thought it would be an issue as this is for our smaller gigs but the girls love to dance during and between sets. They get "happy" when they feel the low end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
Originally posted by pktaskes

That would have worked on my last poweered mixer but the Yammy EMX512 doesn't have a a return for the power section (power amp in). I wan't planning on running a crossover as I just wanted to add a little pop to our smaller rig while keeping it simple. All the EQs, x-overs, additional amps the such are tied up in my Soundcraft mixer/gig rack.


It's a dual 15" sub running at 4 ohms. Sorry didn't mention it. 500w avg/2,000 peak. Tops are JBL MP415's.

You wouldn't want to power that with more than 700-800 watts max then. Those are pretty ordinary woofers in them. Since you have no way to route back into the mixer,I'd use the mixer out to a crossover and then just bring the subs in where the Mpros start tailing off. 70-80hz, maybe? You can buy a decent active crossover used for $50 or less.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

How about using either the monitor out or the effects out?

 

As to adding the bass guitar, just flavor to taste. Keep in mind that you probably want to have some bass and/or kick also in the tops in order to give some definition, not just a low rumble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by pktaskes

Seems like I'm stuck at running 450W with a single channel or 1400 bridged. What's better? Less risky?

 

 

Going by your 500 watt cont/2000 peak quote, both kinda suck.

90% of continuous off one side of the RMX1450 or

40% over program rating (assuming 1000 watts prog.)

 

No other amps available for a better power match?

If somebody else is mixing, like for a rental? Stay safe with the 450 watts.

If YOU or someone you TRUST is mixing, I'd bridge for the 1400 watts.

What about picking up a used RMX850, pretty cheap about $200 or less, and bridge that to the sub. OR a RMX2450 (used for $400) and separate the leads into the sub to supply each woofer separately with 500 watts, matching the subs' program power, just pre-split between the woofers. Excellent damping factor, too, for tighter bass since each woofer is most likely an 8 ohm unit. Another option, using one side of an RMX2450 at 4 ohms for 700 watts to the sub and that leaves an extra channel for a 2nd monitor mix.

 

boomerweps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

The 1450 bridged is too much power IMO for those drivers. they are not their professional series drivers and I don't believe they are re-coneable either.

 

I would max out at about 800 watts between the two drivers, meaning that if you ran on one channel of the 1450, you would lose about 3dB of maximum SPL. That's a better trade-off IMO than overpowering and then possibly having an accident and no sub.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
Originally posted by agedhorse

The 1450 bridged is too much power IMO for those drivers. they are not their professional series drivers and I don't believe they are re-coneable either.


I would max out at about 800 watts between the two drivers, meaning that if you ran on one channel of the 1450, you would lose about 3dB of maximum SPL. That's a better trade-off IMO than overpowering and then possibly having an accident and no sub.

And the amp's limiter might even work to their advantage tonally this way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I'll second the call for a Rolls Tiny Crossover (model SX21 I believe).

 

I'll also concur with the advice to sell your QSC RMX 1450 and acquire a RMX 2450 for the few extra duckets. You can then use channel 1 of the amp to power your sub (750w at 4ohms - a bit more power than you need to run a 600W sub, but actually pretty good match), and use channel 2 to power your two mains (again 750w @ 4ohms split into the 2 JBL MP415s which are rated at 350w RMS each - each speaker would see 375 W, good match there too)

 

Then you can use the amps inside the EMX512 to power monitors.

 

Run a cable (balanced?) out of your main out on the EMX512 into the Rolls (or other) crossover. Run a line from low out to channel one of amp and then a speaker cable from channel 1 output to sub. Then run a line from high out of crossover to channel 2 of amp, speaker cable to one main, daisy chain main speaker 1 to main speaker 2.

 

Voila! Your using the EMX as a mixer only for FOH, but as a mixer and amp for monitors. SHould maintain the tidy rig you are looking for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Thanks for the advise guys. I'm picking up a Carvin amp similar to the 2450 and the Rolls is just what I'm looking for. I'll velcro it right to the head.

 

I'm definietly not expecting the world from these subs. Two questions though:

 

-Would the drivers be replaceable with better ones in the event of a mishap or is the cab tuned especially for the originals?

 

-Why would the limiter help tonally (any why set for 50 vs 30)?

 

I guess technically that's three questions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • CMS Author

 

Originally posted by pktaskes

Thanks for the advise guys. I'm picking up a Carvin amp similar to the 2450 and the Rolls is just what I'm looking for. I'll velcro it right to the head.


I'm definietly not expecting the world from these subs. Two questions though:


-Would the drivers be replaceable with better ones in the event of a mishap or is the cab tuned especially for the originals?


-Why would the limiter help tonally (any why set for 50 vs 30)?


I guess technically that's three questions.

 

 

The issue of driver replacement depends upon whether a replacement is available that matches the box tuning well.

 

The sub won't do much work below 50Hz, so setting the HPF there will help conserve power that is otherwise wasted reproducing mud below 50.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by Craigv

The issue of driver replacement depends upon whether a replacement is available that matches the box tuning well.

 

 

 

too much homework for me there. Hopefully they won't blow up any time soon.

 

Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...