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If I'm using Yorkville NX55p and Yorkville NX720 do I need an outboard crossover or
can I just adjust the ones on the speakers at 100hz and go with it?

 

 

Works fine for me.

 

I suppose it depends on how hard you're driving the system, and the subs in particular. If you're driving the subs hard, using an external x-over that allows you to bracket (hi-pass) the subs at 40-50Hz for example, might be beneficial.

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I suppose it depends on how hard you're driving the system, and the subs in particular. If you're driving the subs hard, using an external x-over that allows you to bracket (hi-pass) the subs at 40-50Hz for example, might be beneficial.

 

 

All high pass filtering is internal to the powered sub. No external HPF is needed or desireable.

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If I'm using Yorkville NX55p and Yorkville NX720 do I need an outboard crossover or can I just adjust the ones on the speakers at 100hz and go with it?

 

 

Yes set it at 100 hz and you'll be good to go also all your recommended setting should be in your manual.

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All high pass filtering is internal to the powered sub. No external HPF is needed or desireable.

 

 

I don't necessarily agree with this. Needed, no I guess not. Desireable? in the case of the LS700P and NX55P, absolutely! That sub puts out a ton of 100 - 200 Hz even with the filter at it's lowest setting. with a real crossover set to around 90 Hz and the filter on the sub at it's highest value and disengaged on the tops the sound is much improved. The 700P is a bandpass box so it suffers from peaks at certain frequencies. I've not heard the 720P, but it's quite possible it would benefit from a real crossover as well. The filters on the Yorkville stuff don't seem to have a very steep slope. If you're able to borrow a crossover you can give it a whirl and see for yourself.

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I don't necessarily agree with this. Needed, no I guess not. Desireable? in the case of the LS700P and NX55P, absolutely! That sub puts out a ton of 100 - 200 Hz even with the filter at it's lowest setting. with a real crossover set to around 90 Hz and the filter on the sub at it's highest value and disengaged on the tops the sound is much improved. The 700P is a bandpass box so it suffers from peaks at certain frequencies. I've not heard the 720P, but it's quite possible it would benefit from a real crossover as well. The filters on the Yorkville stuff don't seem to have a very steep slope. If you're able to borrow a crossover you can give it a whirl and see for yourself.

 

 

so you would set your external HPF to fix this how? if you set a HPF at 100hz your sub would plug away at 100 to 200hz, problem not solved.

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I don't necessarily agree with this. Needed, no I guess not. Desireable? in the case of the LS700P and NX55P, absolutely! That sub puts out a ton of 100 - 200 Hz even with the filter at it's lowest setting.

 

After a quick search, I couldn't find out what the NX's internal crossover slope is. I agree that the LS700P has a rather shallow slope and that sub in particular does benefit from a good external crossover.

 

Is a crossover absolutely necessary? Not really, but I always have a crossover handy anyways. I like to be able to control my crossovers in my drive rack.

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so you would set your external HPF to fix this how? if you set a HPF at 100hz your sub would plug away at 100 to 200hz, problem not solved.

 

 

Huh? I know you understand how crossovers work so I sincerely don't understand your question/point. - It's an easy remedy and not just for this sub, but for the situation in general. You just have to crossover lower than the built in. A lot of subs, like the LS700P, LS720P and my RCF 705-AS, have variable crossover settings. You simply set it to the highest available and crossover lower. At about 90 Hz, the mud comes out of the LS700P.

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I did not look up the manuals for the speakers in question BUT most currently made seperate crossovers have a 4th order 24dB filter available in them. Many subs use lesser order filters (6dB per "order" filter). While a poor comparision, when I had Behringer B1800X subs, the passive filters were useless. They were a 9db low pass and a 6dB high pass (if I didn't get those backwards) and up clear around 170Hz IIRC. What a waste of materials, I NEVER used them as a result, they were bypassable.

 

Boomerweps

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well, because HPF is
H
igh
P
ass
F
ilter. so setting the HPF lower than factory will yield a very narrow response, not at all what you want.

 

 

Who's talking about a high pass filter? The filter on the sub is a LPF. Set it at 150 Hz so it does frequencies at 150 Hz and lower. You then use a crossover, also a LPF, set at something lower than 150 Hz to get the results you're after. - You now have essentially bypassed the built in crossover. That's all I'm talking about. Nothing exotic. You just need to set the built in crossover to it's highest point so as not to interfere with the external crossover which will be set at something lower.

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Reread your first post abzurd, specifically the quote within it, before this madness continues....

 

Ah, OK - I see the confusion. OP asks about crossover, then it's changed to HPF discussion in next post, which I didn't get and responded to what I thought was a discussion on if you need a crossover or not. Sorry Coaster.... I should read the post correctly instead of expecting you to read my mind :facepalm:

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(borrowing a phrase from TV game shows) For the benefit of those at home playing along, The HPF for the lowest the sub will produce is a safety feature and should be included in the powered sub's electronics. The signal feed to the tops, if routed through the sub's, should also be a HPF. Of course the LPF is what chops the top's frequencies from the subs. I would think all these filters come into play (& discussion) when talking about crossovers.

 

Boomerweps

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The sub is active, has an active and fairly steep HPF, has a low pass filter (crossover) that's variable between 90 and 150Hz and is 24dB/octave (IIRC), and has some internal eq as well.

 

Shallow filters come from passive sub crossovers or stupid cheap products. Even Behringer filters are steep enough.

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The sub is active, has an active and fairly steep HPF, has a low pass filter (crossover) that's variable between 90 and 150Hz and is 24dB/octave (IIRC), and has some internal eq as well.


Shallow filters come from passive sub crossovers or stupid cheap products. Even Behringer filters are steep enough.

 

 

I own the LS700P (actually I guess it's an ES700P, but same thing) and they have a VERY shallow filter. It was geared for maximum output out of the box, which occurs at frequencies over 100 Hz. I found it was totally inadequate if you're looking for a real sub sound. You can get the 700P sounding like a bigger box, but at the expense of total output. Can't comment on the 720P.

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Looked at the service manual and it looks like the LP and HPF are 24dB/octave (split into 2 x 2nd order filters each.)

 

Of course there's no HP output to the tops, this must be handled by the top cabinet. (an oversight IMO).

 

Looked at the NX-55 and it's got a 25dB HPF on the woofer, a 36dB/octave LPF on the woofer and a 24dB HPF on the HF. Additionally, there is some eq at 2.5k and 3.9k plus there may be more eq on the LF section.

 

The schematic is pretty complicated (had I designed it I would have choosen a simpler way to achieve the same result) for what it is, but it should work just fine with the sub and no external crossovers.

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Not sure which sub you're referring to, but if it's the 700P then the controls are completely inaccurate. It's not just "a little better" with a crossover, it's night and day better. Others with the 700P have reported the same. You simply don't realize how nice the sub can sound until you ditch whatever lousy crossover-esque thing they're doing.

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