Coaster

its roughly 5 cubic feet. its more than the driver wants i did finish these and have been running them a lot. they get really loud but dont hurt ears. they carry several hundred feet before freq response dies off. they outrun my peavey double 18's like mad. subs cant keep up.

this story is weird. i have pics for those who say it cant be so. my system sat dormant for 18 months due to the cv19 nonsense. i recently fired it up and ran it one night, the next night all my 18"s were locked up, cant push them in and out by hand, very little sound. distorted too. i was 15db below the DSP limiters when this happened. speakers are 1992 peavey 1801-8, original in HDH3 subs. i am only running 2 double 18's but i have 4. i took them apart, removed the magnets and was greeted by perfectly brand new golden orange voice coils. looked deeper and the foam covering the inside of the screen on the back of the magnets had mostly reverted back to petroleum instead of foam. it melted down inbetween the former and the inside of the magnet gap and burned into it, solidifying the whole thing on all 4 drivers. i was able to get the gunk off with some simple green and labor, cleaned the magnet gaps very well. took about 7 hours to do 4 drivers. it was stuck on crusty goo. they all worked great except for one driver rattled and distorted. never did figure it out, the magnet had cracked in 2 spots so i swapped the magnet with a different used one from 1995 and its fine. magnet is different shape on the back and has smaller vent though. they all work again, but i have nothing covering the vents on the magnets. wide open screen. should i try and do something about the lack of foam over the vent?

still not bad. i can lift them myself onto the subs. maybe 70 pounds? less? [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":32178886}[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":32177160}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":32177161}[/ATTACH]

Andy you were right. i shortened the ports to 4" and fired one up today with the bracing and backing. i used a mild amount of thick jeans type backing, i will add more but not much. with the shorter ports the driver moves and pounds. air comes out the ports now. i only did it to ne so far and it sound a lot better. i raised the crossover point to 800 from 500 with the backing and the 2226 sings. i love it. those big braces really work. i used my hands to learn where to place them, now i feel the horn area vibrating too so i may brace that. i have air leaking out of the horn where it meets the cab. a lot. i need some type of gasket there. i basically sat there stunned listening to this one speaker for an hour. i have not transfer functioned it yet. [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-tempid":"temp_129753_1515373928206_320"}[/ATTACH]

i'm still working on these but i had to take some time off. had a little boy july 6 and he is wonderful. speakers are sounding amazing. thinking about grill issues now

hey your right. i get way better results when i shorten the ports to 3 inches. freq response flattens out almost flat, vent velocity goes way down, cone displacement goes WAY down below 120hz, input power goes up a lot between 50hz and 100hz. i just lose a little response below 50hz which i dont care about at all. group delay and impedance gets high below 50z (not concerned) but both of those get lower above 50hz its easy to shorten the ports! i wonder why jbl said to use those ports? the computer model agreed but does like them best at 3". i tried 6,5,4,3,2 inches. 2" breaks up a lot of stuff. i can post plots if you want. i wonder if 3" is best, or if i should be looking at 4". thanks for suggesting this

these things are blowing my mind

prototype. i can make a better hole

i appreciate both of your input

yes that is basically what i have come up with. the hole is around 8.9" or so and i am not sure how to take the rubber ring into account. i could support via the rubber ring, or i could take it off but it doesnt come off without wrecking it. there is some give in the rubber and maybe thats fine. that brace would be a good sidewall brace too. i just received the handles from parts express an hour ago, i hope they fit my router templates from my last build. not sure. i can make new ones. i've been playing with these speakers and they are pretty amazing. i did a show last night with the hdh4's and i think the dh1a might be a lot better top end. no idea on the 2226 vs the hdh4, different beast

i'm building 4 cabs. i have the carcasses made already and the baffles cut out. i designed them in bassbox pro. crude testing with minimal dsp (for the horn) and no smaart yet reveals they will sound great. drivers are jbl 2226h horns are ev dh1a (8 ohm) on an ev hp940. yes i realize they are 90 degree horns. crude testing in my driveway shows they sound decent sitting next to each other in a typical arrangement. it took me a long time to decide to build these.. i would have preffered to find another set of HDH4 tops. but i cannot. so far i can lift these cabs. i cannot lift HDH4's the cabs need bracing. the 2226 overpowers the 3/4" plywood walls. i am not surprised. the baffle needs braced as well. i crammed a lot of stuff in that baffle. my question is how do i support the dh1a? its reall heavy and i dont want it unsupported. one big bump in the trailer and i foresee cracked horns i could make a bracket for the holes in the base of the horn but i dont like that. driver is still unsupported. my current idea is to make a thin metal tab that bolts to the driver on one or two of the mounting hole where it attaches to the horn and bolt that metal tab to a wood brace. or i could remove the rubber ring around the driver and directly support the driver? ideas?

sounds like you are looking at relics and you will never be happy with how large, old, heavy and underwhelming they are. if its what i think it is they were old in the early 90's and need amps.