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Anyone seen the Tube Zipper Lounge?


Blungo

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hey! just got a tube zipper! and searched the forum for tipos and readed the whole thread...

anyone use it with bass? i play bass so i dont know if the settings here will work, but ill try them anyway, and correct settinmg to work for me....


so, for just envelope filter i have to set the drive at 0? and for just distortion i have to set the sens at 0?


i have another question, the envelope creates an peak that raises in a freq range and them goes down again, right? when in "up" mode, does it goes jut up? or first up and then down?
(same with "down" mode)

also, i couldnt get what the tron/trill switch does, can anyone explein it?

were i can find technicall information?, for example in what frequency range it the res and freq knob work? since im using lower frequencys i need to take this in consideration...

thancks!

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for bass, I recommend setting the input gain very low...

for just env, & just dist: like you wrote...

in "up"-mode, it moves up, then down...
in "down"-mode: first down, then up...
(in both cases, it starts and finishes at the frequency set by the "frequency" pot) (i.e.: for "up", you usually set it to a lower freq., and for "down" you set it to a higher freq., when you want a large "sway").

"Tron" is the usual envelope-following,

"Trill" will re-trigger itself according to the envelope of the already filtered signal, which works best at high "resonance" settings...

The designer (me) has never provided technical measurements...
(to let the user`s ears be the personal judge).

Be aware: even small movements on the knobs can make big differents in sound...

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Originally posted by puretube

for bass, I recommend setting the input gain very low...


for just env, & just dist: like you wrote...


in "up"-mode, it moves up, then down...

in "down"-mode: first down, then up...

(in both cases, it starts and finishes at the frequency set by the "frequency" pot) (i.e.: for "up", you usually set it to a lower freq., and for "down" you set it to a higher freq., when you want a large "sway").


"Tron" is the usual envelope-following,


"Trill" will re-trigger itself according to the envelope of the already filtered signal, which works best at high "resonance" settings...


The designer (me) has never provided technical measurements...

(to let the user`s ears be the personal judge).


Be aware: even small movements on the knobs can make big differents in sound...

 

 

some more questions....

 

so what is "very low" for the input? almost at zero?

maybe i shoul put distortion and sens at 0, and then adjust the input and out so they match the bypassed signal, and then start from there..... and tips here?

 

is it better to put a compressor before or after the unit?

 

so it starts from the freq that i set and goes either up or down and then returns to the freq, but how far does the peaks goes? is this determined by the RES? or the RES determinesd the Q of the peak?

 

i readed in other place that the TRILL acts acording to the TRON plus a modulation envelop added, so why the RES has to do anything to do here?

 

 

thancks!

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yes, very low is fully ccw (IIRC, fully to left is not completely off)...

yes, drive & sens. all the way down, while "frequency" should be set between ~8 and ~11 o`clock - choose the input gain now so that it doesn`t distort - match the volume to the bypassed signal now by adjusting the "master vol.".

Now you can check out, whether the "sens." allows sweeping wide enough, when turned rightwards...
(to check the widest possible sweep, turn the "freq" knob all the way down, with "env" in the "up-mode",
or "freq" fully right, with "env" in the "down-mode").

Note: in "Tron"- mode, the "sensitivity" is directly responding to the input-signal, i.e.: it can be influenced with the guitar`s vol-pot;
while in "Trill" - mode, the "sensitivity" and hence the modulation envelope gets influenced by the "input-gain", by the "resonance", and by the position of the "freq." knobs, in addition to the guitar`s volume...

The "resonance" determines the "sharpness" of the filtered sound ("Q" - up to self-oscillation),
and therefore features higher (smallband) volumes, when set high;
this adds to the influence on the "Trill"- modulation envelope,
and makes it more pronounced...

The "sensitivity"- knob determines how far the peaks can go,
maximally. (for both directions).

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ok, ok.

i'm thinking of running two tube zippers in a row maybe with a tube screamer or pulsar in between. woudl the filter of the first one react to the second one in a weird modulated kind of way?

...plus this thread deserves a noteworthy bump......

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Several years back, I had a couple of the Chandler tube drivers. I found the full-blown 12 ax7 distortion to be a bit nasal, and fizzy. I kind of have the same impression of the tube zipper. When I lowered the gain on the tube drivers by switching to 5751s or 12at7 it created a rounder warmer distortion, more reminescent of octal pre-amp tubes or power tubes. The only downside is that you lose a little bit of volume and a less agressive top to gain and drive.

Shouldn't hurt the unit. I'd throw them in right now but i can't find them.

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Originally posted by joe_lechuza

Rumour has it, that my Tube Zipper has broken. Official sources confirm this.


The powerpack has inexplicably broke, even though its been in its box for months. And yes, it worked before.



:(



fixed by now?

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i've only found one place in the UK that sells the PSU, ironically this is the same place I bought it from. However the shop is closed due to some easter hiatus, and i've had no spare cash to buy the new PSU. Hopefully the shop will be open by now!

question: has anyone used one with a clean boost (e.g zvex SHO) to goose the signal into more mayhem?

it makes it go a little crazier with an EQ or fuzz, but any feedback would be cool :)

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