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Ohms of the Electro Voice 12S OEM 12" speakers?


petejt

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I won these things almost a year ago from eBay, got them from the buyer, but lost my records of what the impedance was. :facepalm: And it isn't marked on the speakers either. I can't find it out from the EV website either, it doesn't show 'em..

I finally got around to installing them in the cab, but can't wire them up until I know what the ohms are.

 

 

Does anyone know what it is?

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http://archives.telex.com/archives/EV/Speakers/EDS/EVM-12S%20Series%20II%20EDS.pdf


seems like there's no info on 4 or 16 ohm speakers... and i know mine was an 8.. but that's NO guarantee yours is!

 

Yup, that's why I don't want to take the risk!

 

 

 

I've got the standard Marshall 1960A jackplate, and want to use it for the new speakers. I want to use it as "8 ohms stereo", hoping that the Leslie's compression driver will be 8 ohms, wired up to one side, and then wire up the EV speakers in parallel so they'll be 8 ohms, for the other side. Then I don't have to have another jack just for the Leslie's compression driver.

 

It's weird how the web site that sells that driver, doesn't even have the impedance rating on it! :freak:

 

Thanks for the EV link. :thu:

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I finally got hold of a multimeter, borrowed from a friend.

 

But I honestly don't know how to use it :facepalm: . I've done electronics but never used a multimeter, and I can't get in touch with the friend that lent it to me.

 

It's just one of those standard yellow ones like you get at Dick Smith. Has a big dial, and two leads- common (black) and the positive one which can be used for low amperes and high.

 

 

Is there an easy way to measure Impedance by turning the dial and putting the probes on the speaker connections? Or is it more complex?

 

Or can I just measure the voltage at 20v, and divide it by whatever the current measures at?

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put the ohm meter on the dial, put the red lead on one speaker terminal, the black on the other.

 

if it says 6.8 ohms, it's an 8 ohm speaker.. around 13, it's a 16, and usually around 2.8 is a 4 ohm. it's 'nominal impedance'.. and what you're measuring is DCR (dc resistance).. it's good 'nuf for government work.

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put the ohm meter on the dial, put the red lead on one speaker terminal, the black on the other.


if it says 6.8 ohms, it's an 8 ohm speaker.. around 13, it's a 16, and usually around 2.8 is a 4 ohm. it's 'nominal impedance'.. and what you're measuring is DCR (dc resistance).. it's good 'nuf for government work.

 

Thank you! :thu:

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A multi meter is a must for anyone who owns an amp. Even the $20 work just fine. You don't need to spend a ton of money on them either. Actually, I prefer the cheap ones over the expensive one. The cheap ones are easier to use. The more buttons you have on it, the more you can screw up.

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There is probably a few sections on it. One for impedance, one for volts and one for amps. That is all you need.

 

 

Yeah it is like that. One for amps as you said, Volts DC, Volts AC, ohms, a red lead socket for 10 amps, a higher current red lead socket, a "hFE", something that looks like speaker? (!!!), and a square wave. There's also a dial for testing the different leads on NPN and PNP transistors.

 

 

Which particular setting do I select?

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You are probably never going to use the 10 amp socket, so ignore that one. You will put your multimeter on the ohms setting. if there is a 20 setting, put it on that. Touch off on your terminals on the speaker and see what you get. You can figure that the actual impedance will be less than stated. So if you get around 13, it's a 16 ohm speaker. Not knowing your exact meter, you can move the dial around in the OHMS area to get the correct result. It will not hurt your meter to move it while connected. Switching when measuring volts or amps is a different story.

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You are probably never going to use the 10 amp socket, so ignore that one. You will put your multimeter on the ohms setting. if there is a 20 setting, put it on that. Touch off on your terminals on the speaker and see what you get. You can figure that the actual impedance will be less than stated. So if you get around 13, it's a 16 ohm speaker. Not knowing your exact meter, you can move the dial around in the OHMS area to get the correct result. It will not hurt your meter to move it while connected. Switching when measuring volts or amps is a different story.

 

Thanks for that :thu: .

 

One of them turned out to be 6 ohms, so I just hooked up one speaker per side and switched the cab to stereo for 8 ohms per side. They work fine!! :thu::)

 

I know this seems obvious, but using two speakers is not as loud as four. You'd think that using four speakers would just spread the sound more, but the perceived volume really is less when just using two. But that's ok, it's what I want.

 

I tried them out with the Fireball- great tone :cool: . Very even sound, although I miss the extra thick midrange that I get with the Vintage30s. But again I wanted an even sound. I raised the bass a little bit higher and it was pretty chunky, even with the back of the cab taken off!

 

I also tried my MarkIV with it, but running the MarkIV's effects loop to my Rockman Stereo Chorus/Delay to split the signal, running one side back to the MarkIV and the other side to the Fireball's fx return, with the Fireball plugged into one speaker and the MarkIV into the other. It got a very convincing Roland Jazz Chorus sound! Quite nice, although it wasn't as chorusey or crystally like my real Roland Jazz Chorus 120 combo, when I tried that amp against it.

 

I'm very happy with the results. Now I need to sus out a jackplate for the other speaker driver for the Leslie whirlygig that will sit above the EV speakers, and more of that contraption.

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