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Sixtonoize

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What can i do regarding this floating ground heaters and removing noise coming from it? (This is getting into territory that I dont know much about)

I've heard of someone on "musicelectronicsforum" raising the gain 2 dipswitch to 330uf to give it crazy high gain. I'll probably tweak the low DIP switches, in attempt to give it an extended low end, and hoping to get some increased definition in the extended low end.

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Quote Originally Posted by tedmich View Post
glad its fixed...you noise may have come from the floating ground PV uses for their heaters, its 47ohm above true ground by using a flame proof (47FP) resistor :
47FP.jpg
What is the purpose of the floating ground?


Quote Originally Posted by tedmich View Post
See the valvewizard guys stuff on cathode bypass for some neat ideas:
http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard1...Gain_Stage.pdf

VTM/Ultra and Bravo tone is all about the cathode bypass
That's a cool link...maybe someday, I'll be smart enough to comprehend it all.eek.gif
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I bias-modded my VTM. I used a 22k resistor and a 50k pot.
It's DEFINITELY warmer/fatter, but I still can't get it quite hot enough - The bias maxes out right now at 35ma, which is still better than the 14ma I was getting before. I think a 10k resistor would be a better choice.

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FWIW, I threw some chicken-head knobs on my VTM.
It looks badass, and the tone is 12.73% better.

If Peavey ever stops jerking around my credit card company, I'll have a 5150 headshell on the way, too.

I'll post pics if it ever arrives.

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I've contacted a company about getting custom-made dual-concentric pots.
In theory, you'll be able to replace all of the single pots in the VTM with dual stacked pots with the right values, or even custom values (2 meg gain pot, anyone?).

If anyone's tried to find the correct pots before, you'll know that it's next to impossible.
They will be around $15 each+shipping, which may be a little bit b/c they'd be coming from England. Of course, a standard non-custom dual concentric pot is around $13 + shipping, so it's not really too much more for the custom jobs.

There is one catch: The minimum order is 10 units.
So, if I can get 4 other people who want to replace their Gain and Master pots or 9 other people who want to do a full swap, I can make it happen.

PM me if you're interested.

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3 questions

Where on the Peavey site can I order a replacement headshell and how much does it cost?

What are the values on the Pre Amp Gain and Bass pots?

Which R5 cap do I clip for the bright cap mod? is it on the pre amp board or the power amp board?

I just picked this chassis up and threw in some new tubes. It sounds so good a/b'd with my 5150 but it's a little to bright. I bought it will broken bass knob/pot and broken pre-gain knob.

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Quote Originally Posted by agiknee View Post
Where on the Peavey site can I order a replacement headshell and how much does it cost?
The headshell itself is $108. You can't order it directly from the Peavey site...you have to call or e-mail their parts department. I wouldn't recommend e-mail - it's frustrating and they don't know what they're talking about, in my experience. Calling the parts department is equally frustrating because you'll wait on hold for 5-10 minutes, but at least they know what they're doing and can actually help you order the parts you need.

When you but the "head cabinet" as they call it...that's ALL you're getting. You have to order all of the corner protectors, handle, top plastic vent, and cosmetics separate. The total for 8 corner protectors, 1 handle, 2 handle ends, 1 top vent, and 1 5150 headshell is just under $140, shipped.

If you're interested, I can post all of the parts numbers to make ordering easier. It will take them a while to look up the parts numbers when you call the parts department.

It's also important to note that they don't take debit cards, only credit - so make sure you've got a valid credit card available, or they won't process your order

Quote Originally Posted by agiknee View Post
Which R5 cap do I clip for the bright cap mod? is it on the pre amp board or the power amp board?
R5 is the fist power resistor - if you're doing a choke mod, that's the resistor that you replace with the choke.

It's the long, skinny, blue resistor at the top of the power supply board.

To perform the bright cap mod, you just clip the capacitor that's the closest to the Gain pot on the control board. The bright cap mod DEFINITELY helps out the excessive brightness that the VTM can have sometimes.
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New pics of my VTM:

sexyvtm.jpg

I still need to order the dual concentric pots, which is why there's no knobs on the Pre and Post gain.
FWIW, I had my first band practice tonight with the VTM, and it killed.
The Deep switch doesn't do too much at low volumes, but at practice volumes, it adds this Recto-like low end thump that's pretty badass.

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Is your deep switch the added 44n cap on the bass cap? that cap is 400V correct? I would love to get that nice recto-ish low end.

I have no idea where to get concentric pots. I looked for a while when I did my dual channel mod a year ago, but didnt want to pay $20 per pot, so I drilled some holes.

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If anyone's interested in dual concentric pots, I just bought a crapload of them.
Ted gave me a link to a supplier, but they had a minimum order...

So now I've got 20 dual concentric 1meg/2meg pots with a SPST push/pull switch.

If anyone's interested, I'll ship you a pair (or however many you want) on the cheap..
Shoot me a PM.

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As long as I'm going to be replacing C1, C6, C12 and C14 (the 22uf, 450V on preamp board), what effect would changing the value of these caps provide?
? I had another cap failure, so I'm just going to replace all EL caps and get it done with.

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For the entry price (and what little you get on resale), you simply cannot go wrong with a VTM. I prefer to use my VTM over my TSL now that I have a clean channel. Awesome amps. Too heavy though. Need new headshell

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