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Speaker reconditioning question


Belva

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I have an older speaker that sounds fine. I'll be putting it in a cab (DIY naturally) with a newer speaker & using grills instead of cloth. Problem is the older speaker looks, well, older. Slightly dirty & discolored cone. This is strictly an aesthetic thing, but is there a way to freshen up the cone on an older speaker? Armourall is probably not a good idea. I know black paint is out of the question. Should I just live with it? Thanks.

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You know, it seems to me that years ago I remember some kind of spray concoction that was intended to do just what you're talking about. But, I have no recollection what it was called, or even if the stuff existed for sure.

 

My inclination would be to do nothing rather than do something that you're not absolutely certain will help and not harm. Given the pretty amazing lifespan of a lot of old speakers they seem to get by pretty well as long as they're not abused. If I pull a speaker I usually just use a soft brush and a vacuum cleaner (carefully), and try to get the loose dust and dirt off, and, that's about it.

 

Edit: Might have been called "Cone Renew" or some such. But even if I found it I don't know if I'd use it unless somebody vouched for it.

 

Edit (again) : Umm, this has pushed some button for me. Just found a site called AudioKarma that has several threads on this subject. Seems to be mostly myth, conjecture, and "bacon grease", but you might check it out.

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How old we talking? I bought a Laney AOR-30 last fall that was in great shape, but very dusty (metal grille in front of the cone) after 25 years. Very carefully wiped the dust off the cone with a dry cotton cloth and it looks next to new.

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First I would try cleaning it with a damp cloth and see if you get the color back.

 

Believe it or not I have use light coatings of spray paint with no bad results. You just dont want to soak the paper especially around the ribs.

They do make rubber spray for coating tool handels you can get at hardware stores. I suppose that could be used because its flexable. Again just dusting it for color and no soaking the paper or the tone may be affected. If the ribs are foam or coated with silicon then there not much problem with the paper drying out an cracking at the ribs. If they are high quality speakers I'd just go with cleaning and leave them alone otherwise the cosmetics shouldnt hurt.

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Thanks for the input. The speaker isn't worth anything. Made by Samsung. If I had any sense I'd use acoustic cloth instead of grills. But I have the grills and PRS won't let me throw them away. And you can see right through the things. BTW the cab will house a 12 & a 10. I plan on using 1X4 fir as the stuff is cheap. And it gives me an excuse to use my Xmas gift bisquit jointer. Unsure if this construction method will work for the baffle. Thoughts?

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This is of interest to me.

 

The speakers in my Royal cab are a little dirty from over the years. If this stuff works for you guys, please let me know. I'm not willing to guinea pig the speakers that are in there now, as they're originals.

 

While we're at it the speaker fabric used on this amp is pretty unique. It seems slightly stretchy, but then that could be just from having so much open area, but the thing I really like about it is that it's very translucent - you can see the speakers and from across a bar, it looks almost like nothing is there. It's kinda like if you used sheer black panty hose for grilles, but this stuff is very tough. It's held up well since 1973-74.

 

Sorry for the rope, but it doesn't interfere with seeing the covers/fabric. I was in the process of unloading at Austin Ampfest 2 when someone took the picture.

 

royalamp.jpg

 

 

See what I mean about how translucent (almost transparent) they are?

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Isaac - in the words of the great Kool-Ade man: "Oh yeah!"


Never heard of the stuff, but I'll be getting some.

 

 

I don't know how it might affect the sound. It's designed for bass speakers. Woofers, that is. It might have effects on the midrange that don't matter in the intended application.

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So far I tried compressed air (turned down to 25 psi) and a damp sponge. Looks a little better but not much. Not touching it is maybe the best option. But the other speaker looks new (MOD 10-50). At this point I'll finish building the cab, get the speakers mounted & see how it looks. If it aint too bad I may leave it alone. If there is a noticable difference I'll try the parts express stuff. If the speaker combination sounds like {censored} I can't see the point in using the thing, so why bother making it purty?

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I can't find anything on tetrafluorine. Do you mean tetrafluoroethane?




Or worse, carbon tetrachloride?


 

 

No, neither.

 

Tetraflourine:

http://cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=18960236

 

internet.ktu.lt/lt/mokslas/zurnalai/medz/pdf/medz0-76/06%20Lugauskas%2024-28.pdf (cut and paste to address bar)

 

You also have carbon tetraflourine. You also have the option of a chlorinate brake cleaner used for cars. That contains Tetrachloroethylene. With that stuff you saturate the speakers and let dry for 24 hours. It can lift deep dirt and grease as well as skin and it also is not that nice for you. It will not harm the paper though. The nice enviro-friendly stuff mostly does not work.

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What I have sitting in front of me is "CRC Brakleen." I purchased it at Checker Auto Parts. Not sure if it is an inhouse brand; they carry the chlorinated and the non-chlorinated stuff. Most chlorinated brake cleaners use the chemicals. I am not joking about the hazards though.

 

If you google the active chemical "Tetrachloroethylene" you will find that it is used in dry cleaning and carpet cleaning as well as cleaning dirty brake parts or greasy engines. It is ok to get on your hands if you wash them in a reasonable time. If you get it on your cloths, change them immediately and wash the soiled clothing asap. I had a rash on my leg for over a week when I did my brakes and ignored the advise I just gave.

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What I have sitting in front of me is "CRC Brakleen." I purchased it at Checker Auto Parts. Not sure if it is an inhouse brand; they carry the chlorinated and the non-chlorinated stuff. Most chlorinated brake cleaners use the chemicals. I am not joking about the hazards though.


If you google the active chemical "Tetrachloroethylene" you will find that it is used in dry cleaning and carpet cleaning as well as cleaning dirty brake parts or greasy engines. It is ok to get on your hands if you wash them in a reasonable time. If you get it on your cloths, change them immediately and wash the soiled clothing asap. I had a rash on my leg for over a week when I did my brakes and ignored the advise I just gave.

 

 

I have the chlorinated CRC. It's the industry standard. I have personally used it for years. Also is great as a paint prep for metals. And hazard wise It hasn't affected me/me/me/me/me at all!

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Just a quick addendum to the issue of using chlorinated brake cleaner, I remember from my early days as a radio control fanatic using non-chlorinated brake cleaner for cleaning certain parts. The reason for using non-chlorinated was because the chlorinated stuff purportedly makes plastic brittle. Some RC vehicles are made primarily of composites, so I took the cautionary tales to heart until I discovered that wonderful stuff named Simple Green.

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Chlorinated cleaners can also cause hydrogen embrittlement in some metals. Been too long since I been in school & I sniffed too much of the stuff. So I don't remember which ones off the top of my haid.

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