Strange problem

[Spacetrucker]

I've had my Yamaha FG730S for 3 weeks now and soon after getting it I noticed a strange kinda 'half muted' sound when I played certain notes. It's not a buzz as such, it's closer to the sound you get when you partially mute a string. The notes in question don't resonate like the others. It only seems to do this on the 3rd fret of the bottom E, the 5th fret on the D and when I play the open G. It also does it when playing most notes on the G string, but quieter. It's kinda noticable when strumming too, there's kind of a quiet 'banging' noise. It's really hard to explain. It came with 10's on when I bought it but today I put some Martin SP Phosphor Bronze 11's on and I dunno if it's my imagination but it sounds a tad worse than it was.

 

I would say the action is medium-high, but I'm pretty happy with it. The strings look pretty comfortable in their nut slots, so I don't think it could be that. The saddles seem fine too. Are we talking a truss-rod adjustment here or what? I'd really rather not have to pay to get a setup, if I could sort this problem out myself that would be great. Apart from this it plays great, the action is perhaps ever so slightly than I would like but it's no problem to play. Any help much appreciated.

[Queequeg]

I'm going to guess this is not your trussrod.

check out your saddle (again) and bridge. what you are describing sounds like you don't have a solid contact transfer from the string>saddle>bridge>top.

If the saddle seems to be seated properly, look your bridge over (flush with the top all the way across?) then with a mirror & light check out the bridge plate under the top for any gaps.

At three weeks old (assuming you bought it new) you have some recourse with the seller.

A good set up is usually worth the money (most especially, when you really need one)

[Hudman]

Are you sure it came with 10's?

 

12's are standard.

[Freeman Keller]

First, most sellers will include a setup with the price of a new guitar. That should include adjusting it to your playing preferences and eliminating buzzes or other strange sounds. You should have to pay for parts (strings, saddle if you want it replaced) but the labor by a good tech is often included in the purchase price. Depends on where you bought it of course and how much you dickered on price. If you have to pay, a good tech will charge you 35 to 75 depending on what needs to be done. A setup normally includes setting the relief if it needs it, checking the frets (it is possible that you have a couple of high frets that need leveling and crowning), and setting the action to your preferences, and replacing strings.

 

Before you touch the truss rod, run thru my little "Is My Guitar Sick" at the top of the page and measure everything. Then go to the "What do I do about my Sick Guitar" near the bottom of the post.

 

Last questions, are the strings seated correctly against the bridge plate? Is there any internal electronics stuff that could be rattling around? And I don't have to ask if it is properly humidified.

 

Last comment, be careful about letting the 16 y.o with all the tats behind the counter at GC offer to "adjust the action" for you.

[Spacetrucker]

 

Originally posted by Queequeg I'm going to guess this is not your trussrod. check out your saddle (again) and bridge. what you are describing sounds like you don't have a solid contact transfer from the string>saddle>bridge>top. If the saddle seems to be seated properly, look your bridge over (flush with the top all the way across?) then with a mirror & light check out the bridge plate under the top for any gaps. At three weeks old (assuming you bought it new) you have some recourse with the seller. A good set up is usually worth the money (most especially, when you really need one)

 

 

Thanks - I'll definetely give it a good check over. I bought it online so I'd have to pay for a setup really.

[Spacetrucker]

Originally posted by Hudman Are you sure it came with 10's? 12's are standard.

 

Yeah - absoloutely sure, they were really thin and I used to play 10's all the time on a Simon + Patrick SP6. These 11's I have on now are without doubt heavier.

[Spacetrucker]

 

Originally posted by Freeman Keller First, most sellers will include a setup with the price of a new guitar. That should include adjusting it to your playing preferences and eliminating buzzes or other strange sounds. You should have to pay for parts (strings, saddle if you want it replaced) but the labor by a good tech is often included in the purchase price. Depends on where you bought it of course and how much you dickered on price. If you have to pay, a good tech will charge you 35 to 75 depending on what needs to be done. A setup normally includes setting the relief if it needs it, checking the frets (it is possible that you have a couple of high frets that need leveling and crowning), and setting the action to your preferences, and replacing strings. Before you touch the truss rod, run thru my little "Is My Guitar Sick" at the top of the page and measure everything. Then go to the "What do I do about my Sick Guitar" near the bottom of the post. Last questions, are the strings seated correctly against the bridge plate? Is there any internal electronics stuff that could be rattling around? And I don't have to ask if it is properly humidified. Last comment, be careful about letting the 16 y.o with all the tats behind the counter at GC offer to "adjust the action" for you.

 

 

Cool, thanks - I'll give it a good check over then take things from there. There's no electronics or anything, is a straight acoustic. Like I said earlier I'd have to pay for a setup as I bought it online, although it was pretty cheap(

[Spacetrucker]

Anyone have any thoughts on the G note thing? I'm thinking the fact it is pretty much all the same notes will make it easier to identify the problem, but then again, maybe it is just pure coincidence

[Freeman Keller]

Originally posted by Spacetrucker Anyone have any thoughts on the G note thing? I'm thinking the fact it is pretty much all the same notes will make it easier to identify the problem, but then again, maybe it is just pure coincidence

 

So it sounds like something is resonating at G? That is what you indicated in the first post - open 3rd, 4th at 5, 6th at 3 - all G notes. What happens if you tune it down a half step - do you still get G notes (same strings up one fret). If so I would try to pinpoint the location of the sound - maybe a doctor friend's stethescope would help

 

One common source of strange rattly sounds is the ends of the strings - you might try loosening them, pull the pins, pull up and rotate the string to make sure they are tight against the bridgeplate. Otherwise, I would look for something loose that just happens to vibrate at G - tuners, truss rod cover (or the rod itself), maybe a brace, wires inside the git, strap button - report back.

[Hudman]

Your guitar needs a set up. They are set up for 12's at the factory. You are using 11's.

 

Get a set up done on it.

[Dave W.]

One of my favorite tools is a mechanics mirror. It is about two inches in diameter, with a swivel head, and a sixteen inch long telescoping handle. I think it cost me about $10. As I seat each string and bridge pin, I stick it in the sound hole and shine a flashlight on it. I get a perfect view of the bottom of the bridge from either the front or the side. It makes it real easy to see that the ball ends are tight up against the top and the pin. A good investment.

[Spacetrucker]

 

Originally posted by Freeman Keller So it sounds like something is resonating at G? That is what you indicated in the first post - open 3rd, 4th at 5, 6th at 3 - all G notes. What happens if you tune it down a half step - do you still get G notes (same strings up one fret). If so I would try to pinpoint the location of the sound - maybe a doctor friend's stethescope would help One common source of strange rattly sounds is the ends of the strings - you might try loosening them, pull the pins, pull up and rotate the string to make sure they are tight against the bridgeplate. Otherwise, I would look for something loose that just happens to vibrate at G - tuners, truss rod cover (or the rod itself), maybe a brace, wires inside the git, strap button - report back.

 

 

I tuned down a half-step and the noise continued on the same frets, but like before the 1 or 2 frets directly above the problem ones are still making the noise, just not as much. I've tried loosening the strings then resituating them under the bridge pins but this didn't make any difference either. It does kinda sound like the noise is coming from around the bridge though, although I can't be 100% sure. I've checked all the screws are tight on the tuners etc too. Could be the truss rod itself is loose, but I wouldn't want to mess with it unless I was sure that was the problem. I really wanna avoid paying for a setup if I can, but it looks like that's gonna be difficult now.

[Spacetrucker]

Originally posted by Hudman Your guitar needs a set up. They are set up for 12's at the factory. You are using 11's. Get a set up done on it.

 

So you're saying my choice of string gauge is the problem? Like I said, it came with 10's on out of the factory - I bought it brand new, hadn't been touched. With 11's on the strings are pretty tight in their nut slots, so I'm not too sure it was setup with 12's in mind, although I do appreciate the standard is usually 12's.

[Spacetrucker]

Originally posted by Dave W. One of my favorite tools is a mechanics mirror. It is about two inches in diameter, with a swivel head, and a sixteen inch long telescoping handle. I think it cost me about $10. As I seat each string and bridge pin, I stick it in the sound hole and shine a flashlight on it. I get a perfect view of the bottom of the bridge from either the front or the side. It makes it real easy to see that the ball ends are tight up against the top and the pin. A good investment.

 

Man, I could really use one of those right now - shame you can't send it to me by E-Mail or something

[Hudman]

Maybe they do things different in England. I never heard of an acoustic coming with 10's from the factory. I bought a guitar made in China (Alvarez) with 12's and a guitar made in Canada (Larrivee) with 12's in the past 3 months.

 

I assume you do have guitar techs in your area. Take your guitar to a tech.

[Spacetrucker]

 

Originally posted by Hudman Maybe they do things different in England. I never heard of an acoustic coming with 10's from the factory. I bought a guitar made in China (Alvarez) with 12's and a guitar made in Canada (Larrivee) with 12's in the past 3 months. I assume you do have guitar techs in your area. Take your guitar to a tech.

 

 

Yeah, I admit I thought it was a little strange they come with 10's on, but I'm pretty sure I've seen others say the same thing in reviews and such. Yeah, looks as though it's gonna have to go to a tech.

[Hudman]

 

Originally posted by Spacetrucker Yeah, I admit I thought it was a little strange they come with 10's on, but I'm pretty sure I've seen others say the same thing in reviews and such. Yeah, looks as though it's gonna have to go to a tech.

 

 

My daughters Daisy Rocks Pixie acoustic came with 11's. I'm really surprised that anyone would make a full sized acoustic with 10's.

 

Either way, changing the string gauge changes the amount of pull on the neck. Your truss rod may need to be adjusted. Since you went with a heavier gauge string, you might want to try turning the truss rod clockwise a quarter turn. See what it does. You can always turn it back as long as you pay attention to where you started.

[Spacetrucker]

Originally posted by Hudman My daughters Daisy Rocks Pixie acoustic came with 11's. I'm really surprised that anyone would make a full sized acoustic with 10's. Either way, changing the string gauge changes the amount of pull on the neck. Your truss rod may need to be adjusted. Since you went with a heavier gauge string, you might want to try turning the truss rod clockwise a quarter turn. See what it does. You can always turn it back as long as you pay attention to where you started.

 

Do you think it's worth a try? Like I said, I had this problem before changing strings but to my ears it sounds worse with the 11's on. I'll definetely give it a try if you more knowledgable guys think it's worthwhile.

[Freeman Keller]

Three weeks old, two sets of strings - same problem. I would take it back to the shop and ask their tech person to go thru it with you. Get it set up for the string gauge you want to play and the action you want. A good shop should include that in the purchase price, minus the cost of any parts (strings).

 

I don't think you should touch the truss rod or anything else until you've done this. If it was 3 years old or purchased off evil bay or something then, yes, you need to pay a tech.

 

Weird, let us know what you learn.

[Hudman]

Originally posted by Freeman Keller Three weeks old, two sets of strings - same problem. I would take it back to the shop and ask their tech person to go thru it with you. Get it set up for the string gauge you want to play and the action you want. A good shop should include that in the purchase price, minus the cost of any parts (strings). I don't think you should touch the truss rod or anything else until you've done this. If it was 3 years old or purchased off evil bay or something then, yes, you need to pay a tech. Weird, let us know what you learn.

 

I agree with Freeman - although I'm lazy. I would try adjusting the truss rod before taking it back to the store. I will do anything to avoid driving to a store for service (did I say I was lazy? ).

 

It could be a number of things. If it's 3 weeks old, take it back. Most stores have 30 day return policies in the States. Either way, you probably have a 90 day to 1 year warranty. Take it back.

[Spacetrucker]

I think paying a tech is my only option - I bought it from an online retailer you see. I mean, yeah it'll be under warranty but they could argue it's not faulty or broken etc. I certainly wasn't expecting it to be set up brilliantly out of the factory but this is kinda frustrating.

[Spacetrucker]

Actually here's their policy on faulty goods purchased:-

 

"My Item Has Developed A Fault, What Do I Do?

 

Sounds Live offers a warranty repair on most faulty goods purchased which you've had in your possession for a period of more than 28 days.

 

If you do need to return a faulty product(s) to us for warranty repair, the first thing you need to do is obtain an RMA 'returns merchandise number'. Please ring 0191 487 9137 to obtain this,

 

Please note that when returning faulty products for warranty repair, that you will be responsible for paying the return courier charges - regardless of whether you decide to send back goods using our collections service or whether you opt to use your own method."

 

Just not sure if it's classed as 'faulty' because as we all know, it's rare for a guitar you buy online straight out of the factory to have the perfect setup.

[Hudman]

 

Originally posted by Spacetrucker Just not sure if it's classed as 'faulty' because as we all know, it's rare for a guitar you buy online straight out of the factory to have the perfect setup.

 

 

That's true. Especially, if the guitar travels a long distance through different climates.

 

I was really impressed with an American Series Strat I got from the California Fender plant. I live in Michigan. It was still in tune when I opened the case and had good intonation. It freaked me out.

 

I had similiar luck with a Gibson J-180 I got from Musicians Friend. It was in the sealed factory box. The low E was slightly out of tune. Otherwise it was set up perfect.

 

My Alvarez came with loose strings. I had to take a bit off the bottom of the saddle mainly on the bass side (I changed the angle slightly) and tweak the truss rod a touch. It was my first Chinese made guitar. I got the feeling that they do no set up work on them before shipping them.

[Spacetrucker]

I bought this FG730S and a Squier '51 at the same time - I was expecting the Squier '51 to have setup issues, but it plays absoloutely perfectly. If there was any issues I'd have probably endeavoured to fix them myself, with it being pretty cheap. With this one though, it's a job for an expert - I just hope those guys will sort it out for me. I guess it can't hurt to give them a call or drop them an E-Mail to ask.

[JasmineTea]

It might be a ratteling truss. Or it could be a loose brace.

 

You could try tightening the truss A LITTLE. If you have the proper fitting wrench, test it and see if it turns (to the right) realy easily with no effort at all. If so, give it 1/4 turn, see if it still shows symtoms. If that's not it, take it to a tech.