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StratAttackJack

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About a year ago I bought my Martin D-15 (sprucetop, mahagony back/sides version) from musicians friend. About a week after I got it I showed it to my old guitar instructor, and upon inspection he pointed out that the bridge was already lifting very slightly. This pissed me off being that the guitar was brand new. I couldn't return it because frankly I'd already scratched the {censored} out of it with my pick (satin finish + hard playing....)

 

Anyhow the guitar came with medium gauge strings, and thats what I always used on my acoustics, but my instructor had told me to switch to light gauge strings citing that the tension of the medium strings was much to great.

 

The bridge hasn't pulled up any further, but at the same time I hate using light strings.....has anyone else run into this problem?

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Yeah, I had this problem with my Takamine. I installed a JLD bridge doctor on it and created a whole 'nother problem: I split the bridge down the center.

The problem is that somewhere along the line the guitar may have been exposed to excessive heat, causing the hide glue that holds the bridge to the top to weaken. It's an easy fix for a luthier but it involves removing the bridge, cleaning the area of old glue and regluing it. I think the actual repair costs about $50 give or take.

Here's a link of a professional's description of the problem and the probable causes:
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/GenMaint/Heat/Heat/heat1.html

And here's a link to the procedure of how to repair it:
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Bridges/ReglueBr/regluebr1.html

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It has a lifetime warranty. Find a reputable Martin authorized repairman and get it fixed for the cost of shipping.

All you need is a copy of the original reciept. Once you find a good reparman, call him and explane the problem, ship it to him with the copy.

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FYI: It's only a matter of time before the bridge will lift. It's actually designed to do this. The glue is meant to separate under enough tension so that it doesn't rip away some of the soundboard (top) with it.

As for "fixing: the bulge, like I said the JLD Bridge Doctor is designed to counteract the forces that pull the bridge forward:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Bridges/JLD_Bridge_Doctor.html

It did actually fix the belly on my Tak, but I got a little overzealous and tightened the truss too quickly. Now I have to have a whole new bridge put on.

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Originally posted by StratAttackJack

I'm sorry I wasn't as clear as I should have been, the bridge is still adhered securely to the top, but the lift is bowing the wood along with it. Hopefully you can get a mental picture from that, if not I could try posting a pic. I was told this can't be fixed
:cry:
!!!

Oh, ok. I thought the bridge was lifting off from the top.

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Originally posted by JasmineTea

It has a lifetime warranty. Find a reputable Martin authorized repairman and get it fixed for the cost of shipping.


All you need is a copy of the original reciept. Once you find a good reparman, call him and explane the problem, ship it to him with the copy.

 

JT's remains the best advice posted here. You invested in a CFM. Often maligned here & elsewhere for being overpriced. Before you go to the additional expense of repairing this yourself with the JLD Bridge Doctor, which incidentally, is a fine fix, take advantage of the lifetime warranty you originally invested in.

Good luck!

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