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Quicky: Shaving the Saddle


spruce goose

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Couldn't find this in a (really really) quick search. I'm sure it's been discussed somewhere, but nevertheless....

 

I just got a new guitar (see other thread for details, goats, bats, etc.), and the saddle is really up there. I want to shave it badly. What sandpaper should I get, and how would be the best way to go about doing this procedure (i.e. should the sandpaper be glued to some kind of surface or something?)?

 

Danke.

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It has been discussed extensively in the Annex as well as other places, but basically here is what I do.

1 - make sure the guitar is completely stable and structurally sound - humidity, neck angle, all that stuff

2 - check and adjust the relief to whatever your criterea is, at least get it close

3 - check and adjust the nut slots

4 - measure the action and remember that you will have to bring it done twice as much at the saddle

5 - pull the saddle, mark how much youy want to take off with a pencil line. You can use 100-150 for rough sanding, about 220 for the final work. Put it on a flat surface (a plate of glass is best, formica countertop works OK). Some people stick it down with double sticky tape, I just use a heave square piece of steel as a little fence to hold the saddl square to the sandpaper.

6 - I sand half way to the line, put it in and check it. This is a good time to check the intonation and make any changes to the top of the saddle to compensate it if necessary. Tune up and measure the action, if it still needs to come down pull the saddle and go half way to the line again (I don't remove the strings, just loosen them)

7 - sand a little with the 220, put it back in and check again. At this point I like to also recheck relief, nut clearance and make sure there are no high frets.

8 - when you get it where you want it give it a nice polish on the top, put a new set of strings on and enjoy your sweet playing guitar.

btw - latest issue of Acoustic Guitar has a good article on doing a setup including lowering the action

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Thanks FK! I don't know if I could fix the intonation much, but I'll try to do the rest (or at least like 20% of it....).

 

I'll buy some 100-150 and 220, and probably glue it to a surface if I could find one. Probably also buy some 0000 steel wool for the frets, and maybe some oil for the fretboard. :idk:

 

This is a mid-level guitar, so I don't mind experimenting on it a bit, and it would still be worth it to try and make it better (unlike a really expensive guitar, that I would give to a professional, or a really cheap beater, that I won't want to spend time/money on).

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I have a small, well machined vise. I tape the jaws so there is no metal to saddle contact. I mark in pencil the amount I want to take off, and somewhere short of that. Lined up in the vise, it is square, and I don't have to worry about end to end balance. Sanding, the metal block is optimum. Love it. Just don't do to much at once. BEFORE YOU START: Check and make sure the manufacturer did not put removable shims in there. A lot of them do. If so, just pop 'em out one by one until it's right.

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I have a small, well machined vise. I tape the jaws so there is no metal to saddle contact. I mark in pencil the amount I want to take off, and somewhere short of that. Lined up in the vise, it is square, and I don't have to worry about end to end balance. Sanding, the metal block is optimum. Love it. Just don't do to much at once. BEFORE YOU START: Check and make sure the manufacturer did not put removable shims in there. A lot of them do. If so, just pop 'em out one by one until it's right.

 

 

+500

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... or a really cheap beater, that I won't want to spend time/money on).

 

 

Even a beater can be a joy to play if it's set up well. It's a shame to have any guitar poorly set up and difficult to play. If you learn to do this yourself, it really doesn't take too much time if the saddle is uncompensated (most beaters) and the nut does not need to be replaced.

 

Scott O

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Even a beater can be a joy to play if it's set up well. It's a shame to have any guitar poorly set up and difficult to play. If you learn to do this yourself, it really doesn't take too much time if the saddle is uncompensated (most beaters) and the nut does not need to be replaced.


Scott O


Why would I play a beater when I have two better ones lying around? :idea:

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Why would I play a beater when I have two better ones lying around?
:idea:



Good diarrhoea :idea:

--------

Spruce,

A basic set-up takes next to no time and a saddle reduction even less. Intonating a saddle may seem complex, but it's not and - to be honest - may even prove unnecessary once you've made your adjustments. A search for "Compensated saddle - how to" will provide the necessary information and links concerning the work you're interested in. :thu:

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Why have a beater if you don't play it? I play mine all the time.


Scott O


It cost me 50 bucks. At the time, my only other acoustic was my songwriter deluxe. I wanted to have a guitar that I can take places. Turns out I never go anywhere. I can do that with my gibby. Now that I have a third acoustic (mid-level), I might get rid of my beater, and start taking my mid-leveler to all those places I never go to. :idea:

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Why not keep the beater just in case it has an opportunity to travel to the places you never go to, have it play itself there for a while and send a post card - of the beach or health spa - home before it returns? :thu:

I'd hang onto it just in case, as you never know what's around the corner. ;)

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Most people would assume that my old $100 Yami is my beater 'cause it ain't worth too much, but it is a wonderful sounding guitar and I keep in strung and tuned for open C (a tuning I don't use much but its nice to have available). My real "beater" is my Taylor 314 - it is the guitar I take on ski trips and camping simply because it is replaceable. Everything else in the quiver has some history or meaning to me so I kind of take care of them.

I think that unless someone really needs the cash, holding on to old guitars makes sense. Different tunings, set up for slide, a loaner when a friend comes to jam, or when the good one is off getting worked on - always nice to have a spare.

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Why would I play a beater when I have two better ones lying around?
:idea:



(1) Play at the beach, on a camping/canoeing* trip or anywhere else where it might get banged up.

(2) There's always a drunk at the party who wants to play, too...he/she gets the beater!**

(3) Busking/gigging in less than ideal places.***

Beaters have their uses! :thu:




* Ever see "Deliverence"? If not, watch the river scene about an hour into the movie! :eek:

** Ever see a drunk at a party...bet you have!

*** Some great $$$ to be made at some of these scary places!

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