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My Larrivee is Bugging Me


12Gauge

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I'm kind of at my wits end with my LO-3. Maybe Gary or Freeman could jump in here.

 

I had a problem earlier with my fret ends lifting so had it repaired by a luthier. He super glued the fret ends and they seem to be holding just fine. He also made sure all the frets were level.

 

Now I have noticed that I'm getting a "zingy" type sound from the high E string and it's only when I use a capo and pick upwards with my bare finger on the fret that is capo ed. (fingerstyle). This seems to be happening up most of the neck. Downwards with a thumb or flat pick and you don't hear it. So I'm thinking it my technique but then why doesn't it do it when I do the same on my Yamaha?.

 

So it's got to be the capo but I have two capo's and it does the same with both so it's not that. Besides, on the Yamaha they both work fine. I tried placing the capo right behind and almost right on the fret but it's still there. I thought maybe it's a bad string. Changed it and same problem. Checked the bottom of the saddle to make sure it's flat. I even went as far as to put in a new saddle with higher action. Tried giving the neck more relief also.

 

The only thing I thought maybe it could be was that my frets are showing some wear already but I don't think it's that bad yet to cause a problem. (I hope). Besides, with the higher action saddle and more relief, I thought that should make it disappear by having more clearance above the frets. Didn't help.

 

Could having frets glued cause this problem?

 

I wish there was another luthier around here so I could go for an opinion. The guy that I take it to doesn't hear what I'm talking about.

 

Am I going nuts??:eek:

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Nutty as a fruit cake. :lol: Totally kidding and problems like this are surprisingly common. ;)

 

Could be an element of slap-back buzz due to lack of tension in the capo across the E string and the string being able to lift off the fret and vibrate against it after being plucked.

 

Is the neck a 1-3/4" nut width? If so, you may find a solution by reversing your capo and laying the bar a little further across the fingerboard.

 

Is it solely on the fret directly in front of the capo or the full length of the neck ahead of the capo?

 

On which side of the neck where the frets glued down?

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Is it solely on the fret directly in front of the capo or the full length of the neck ahead of the capo?


On which side of the neck where the frets glued down?


 

 

Yes, only in front of the capo. If I finger up the neck, the fingered notes are clear.

 

They were glued on the side of the high E string which is where my problem exists.

 

My Larrivee has a 1 3/4 nut with a fairly flat neck. Maybe I should try a classical guitar capo??? I use a Planet Waves with the knob that you turn and also a spring loaded squeeze type Kyser.

 

I'll try reversing tomorrow and see what happens. Maybe I'll even try two capo's at once.

 

I can see how your idea of slap back on the string would make sense.

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Yes, only in front of the capo. If I finger up the neck, the fingered notes are clear.


They were glued on the side of the high E string which is where my problem exists.


My Larrivee has a 1 3/4 nut with a fairly flat neck. Maybe I should try a classical guitar capo???

 

I'd assume the frets are fine and consider extending the capo further across the fingerboard or reverse it and apply it from the opposite side of the neck. Give this a try, if you have it nearby and let me know the results. It could very well be a quick fix. ;)

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I had a similar problem with a set of Ernie Ball 80/20s on my Ibanez. The two plain strings made that odd sound that usually happens when you pluck the string at the 12th fret, except it didn't matter where I plucked them. I never figured out what was wrong but the Martins I put on at my next string change didn't do it. Not a solution per se (a real solution would solve the problem with your existing strings) but you might want to change strings.

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With the screw tensioned capo, try holding down the capo from the top wih your thumb over the offending string, then give it the final twist. Sometimes they don't seat right. Mmmm... maybe insert something, a bit of matchbook cover between capo and string. If this helps it just might be the capo doesn't match the F-Board radius. Does the manufacturer recommend any certain capo? Hope it helps. Frustrating.

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Did you try applying the capo from the treble side of the neck? This often works if the capo isn't quite seating itself down correctly when applied from the bass side of the neck. Especially with Kyser, Dunlop Trigger and Shubb capo.

 

How do the glued fret ends check out for level?

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Did you try applying the capo from the treble side of the neck? This often works if the capo isn't quite seating itself down correctly when applied from the bass side of the neck. Especially with Kyser, Dunlop Trigger and Shubb capo.


How do the glued fret ends check out for level?

 

 

Yup, I tried that with both capos. I tried many different things with both capos. I even placed the string out of the wear groove on the fret and then clamped down with a capo. No change so it's not because of worn frets.

 

The local luthier that glued the fret ends also checked for level frets after all the gluing was done. I was there when he did it. Only one had to be filed on the treble side.

 

I just have a feeling there is a problem at the saddle end. The way these saddles are made, there is such a tiny contact area for the string. The Yamaha saddle is rounded yet the Larrivee saddle comes almost to a peak. Maybe I will take an old Tusq saddle and round it and see. But on the other hand, I didn't have this problem when it was new. I seems to be after the fret gluing.

 

I don't know.

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It's certainly a puzzle without being able to see it in person.

 

Do the frets make a slightly different sound to the others if lightly tapped with something metallic like a key? It could be a simple case involving voids within the fret slots if he didn't allow the glue to fill them when he did the job, or they may not have been properly clamped after gluing and the fret ends are vibrating.

 

Either of the two above scenarios could be the case if the problem solely involves the repaired fret ends.

 

Has you guitar dried out during the winter months by any chance?

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So, it happens only when capoed, regardless of where it's capoed? Can you replicate the effect without the capo? Does it do it when the other strings are damped? If not, it may not be the first string at all, but one of the others vibrating sympathetically. Another brand of strings is a good idea too. Some guitars are mighty picky.

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it may not be the first string at all, but one of the others vibrating sympathetically. Another brand of strings is a good idea too. Some guitars are mighty picky.

 

 

The guitar is 2 years old and I have kept a damp sponge in a ziplock bag inside the case so it should be humidified sufficiently.

 

You may have something there. I dampened the other strings while plucking the high E and it seems to have improved so maybe what I'm hearing is the other strings. I have been using Martin 80/20 and Dean Markley vintage bronze. Maybe I should try some phosphorous bronze or Elixers and see what happens.

 

Thanks

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with my S&P Pro Folk just recently.

 

I had replaced the strings on it with a set of Wyres - Pierre Bensusan model. The sound with the new strings was incredible!:thu:

 

But...after a few days, I started getting a buzzy E string.:confused:

 

I checked up and down the fret-board and located the buzziness source at the 2nd fret.

 

Okay...an uneven fret, I thought.

 

When I put a level on the fret-board, though, everything looked fine. The string height between 2nd fret and 9th fret, as well as 3rd and 12th, seemed fine, too.

 

So I figured I had a bad string, until I remembered my earlier string-checking and re-played it all over the board. It sounded fine everywhere but 2nd fret.

 

Finally, I decided to very slightly adjust the truss rod.

 

I tried turning it a quarter-turn to the treble side, but it seemed really tight. Didn't want to turn at all.

 

Hhmm...I went to the bass side, and it turned easily to the quarter-turn I wanted.

 

And lo and behold! no more buzziness at the second fret! :cool:

 

Now...I'm most definitely NOT a luthier, and I only did what I did knowing I would take the guitar in if I couldn't solve the buzz myself. Well ,i solved it.

 

By the way...my action seems a bit better now, too.

 

Ian

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Finally, I decided to very slightly adjust the truss rod.

 

 

Tried that too. The sound I'm getting really isn't a buzz. "Zinging" is the best way I can describe it. I realize it's hard to cure something like this over a internet forum. Kind of like diagnosing car trouble over the phone by someone trying to describe the type of sound it's making.

 

I will take it to a qualified luthier next time I go to a bigger center.

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I realize that youve got a sponge in your case but try a purpose built humidfier. This sounds more like a humidity issue (including the previous fret spout). I see you are in Canada and the winters been long :)

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