Members baldbloke Posted January 29, 2011 Members Share Posted January 29, 2011 Hi, I recently got a bargain Tanglewood TW130. It was a bargain for a reason. It has a couple of issues. But I reckoned it was good enough and cheap enough for me to start learning how to do my own set ups and such. A bit of buzz on high E and A. Not a problem (I think). Fixed that mostly with a shim under the saddle. Still a little buzzing remains but I haven't started investigating that yet. The main issue, and the reason I am posting this, is cosmetic. The previous owner carefully removed (and disposed of) the original fret inlays on the fingerboard. He thought this mahogany guitar looked better without inlays. They were round dots, I believe. The holes left by removal do not interfere with playing at all. The indentations left look as though, if I could source some inlays, I could just pop new ones in, level and glue. I'm not too bothered about the inlays myself. I don't like the look of the indentations though. If there were some sort of filler I could use, that would be fine by me. It would have to colour match, of course. Any suggestions anyone, please? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Samilyn Posted January 29, 2011 Members Share Posted January 29, 2011 Wish I could help you, but I'm not a luthier and have only rudimentary woodworking skills. However, I'm sure Joshua or Freeman will spot this thread sooner or later and get you pointed in the right direction. Additionally, several members have built gits and can advise you. I'm sure it's not rocket science and you'll have your Tanglewood looking great in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baldbloke Posted January 30, 2011 Author Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 Thanks Samilyn, I've got some nice guitars (a couple of Stonebridges and a Martin) but I wouldn't want to tackle any setups on them myself at this point in time. I got this Tanglewood so I could mess around with it, set up wise. Experiment with the set up and generally learn from tweaking it. It's no big deal if I knacker it. But the bonus will be if it turns out decent (which I think it will) I'll have a cheap but decent guitar. A beater, if you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Terry Allan Hall Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 Couple of ideas: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Inlay,_pearl/Pre-cut_inlays.html or, fill in the holes with epoxy glue (be sure and make 'em level). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Neal Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 Y'know, I was thinking just get some of the same color wood filler, but then again, it's going to be in contact with human sweat, etc.. not sure if that would last. Dots, though, are pretty standard. you can probably buy them from Terry's link and they'd fit perfect with little work. Then again.. why don't we wait for Josh or Freeman to chime in... yeah, that's the ticket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitmo Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 I vote to buy some inlays and glue them in. They are cheap and easy. Get a few extra in case they fall out again. Do it right. MWO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 You can buy the pearl dots in the correct sizes from StewMac or LMI, just glue them in with CA. If you want to fill the holes, get some scrap of whatever wood the fretboard is (ebony, rosewood), sand it until you have a little pile of dust. Mix that with some epoxy and fill the holes, scrape flat, sand to about 600 and go over it with 0000 steel wool. Should look very much like the base wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baldbloke Posted January 30, 2011 Author Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 Thanks for the link TAH. Neal & Freeman Keller, I think my own chances of exactly colour matching filler are slim. I'm going to order some pearl dots. If there is any finishing off to be done, then I'll have to use filler I suppose. Many thanks. I'm going browsing on Stewmac & LMI now. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Joshua Borsack Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 Freeman s advice is spot on. However, if you need to route out the hole to make it fit, and you make it a little bigger than it should be, I find I get a better color match with this http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=130 I use black for ebony and burnt umber for rosewood. Lay down your 2 beads of epoxy, and then put a small dot of the powder on the end of your mixing needle and have at it. It really doesn't take much, I've had the same 1 oz jar of black for years and haven't even used 1/4 of it. They are nice to have on hand though for repair work to fretboards/bridges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitnoob Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 You could take this an opportunity to learn how to do your own inlay work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Neal Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 You could take this an opportunity to learn how to do your own inlay work. What a horrible Mona. Take off the hair and she'd look like Curly from the Stooges. (not Iggy's) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baldbloke Posted January 30, 2011 Author Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 Freeman s advice is spot on. However, if you need to route out the hole to make it fit, and you make it a little bigger than it should be, I find I get a better color match with this http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=130 I use black for ebony and burnt umber for rosewood. Lay down your 2 beads of epoxy, and then put a small dot of the powder on the end of your mixing needle and have at it. It really doesn't take much, I've had the same 1 oz jar of black for years and haven't even used 1/4 of it. They are nice to have on hand though for repair work to fretboards/bridges. Interesting stuff. Thank you. I've emailed Tanglewood and asked them for the size of the original inlays. When the previous owner took them out, it looks like he drilled in the center of each and pulled them out. The holes look "unwidened" (I think I've just invented a word) so with luck, and the correct diameter, the new ones just might plop back in nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitnoob Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 Great idea, Neal. If I ever order a custom, I'm doing a Three Stooges headstock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baldbloke Posted January 30, 2011 Author Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 That's a purdy lookin' headstock, Gitnoob. My own artistic limits stop at matchstick figures, I'm afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Neal Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 Great idea, Neal. If I ever order a custom, I'm doing a Three Stooges headstock. That's classic Curly, and would look wonderful on the headstock. Just the Curly though. Maybe carved like those Blueberry guitars, or inlaid in an art-deco sort of motif, just black and ivory. Mmmmm, classy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Joshua Borsack Posted January 30, 2011 Members Share Posted January 30, 2011 so with luck, and the correct diameter, the new ones just might plop back in nicely. oder ones that are larger and make them the right size with a dremel and a sanding drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted January 31, 2011 Members Share Posted January 31, 2011 oder ones that are larger and make them the right size with a dremel and a sanding drum. Yeah, if you were starting from scratch you'd use a brad point drill the proper size (brad points are square on the end and don't chip out the wood. I'm assuming that the edges of the holes are rounded off a little from play - you may need to clean them up or drill the holes the next size larger. Any lutherie supply house should be able to furnish dots in almost any size - I know that StewMac ships overseas but there may be some CITES issues with pearl - shoot them an e-mail or see if you can find a luthier in the UK http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Inlay,_pearl/Pre-cut_inlays.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baldbloke Posted January 31, 2011 Author Members Share Posted January 31, 2011 Thank you for the info. Lots of good advice here. I'll order from ebay (Stewmac site implied shipping to England may be problematic). And I'll try to ensure I have the correct tools and glues handy before starting. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members recordingtrack1 Posted February 1, 2011 Members Share Posted February 1, 2011 What a horrible Mona. Take off the hair and she'd look like Curly from the Stooges. (not Iggy's) I don't know, She's not as ugly as this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Jimmy Chaos Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 I wanted to get your thoughts on your TW130, how does it sound? It seems they are 'going after' Martin's 15 series with this model. I'd love a Mahogany 000 and to eb honest, for the price and spec it's hard for me to look anywhere but at the TW130. (000-15 is way out of the question budget wise) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baldbloke Posted February 2, 2011 Author Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 I wanted to get your thoughts on your TW130, how does it sound? It seems they are 'going after' Martin's 15 series with this model. I'd love a Mahogany 000 and to eb honest, for the price and spec it's hard for me to look anywhere but at the TW130. (000-15 is way out of the question budget wise) Jimmy, Do not read this. Warning. You'll get gas. I sat down with it tonight and played it a bit. I made comparisons to my oo15. The Tanglewood is larger bodied than the 0015. I reckon they have attempted to make it more like a 00015 than a 0015. The Tw130 is very good value for money. (As are many guitars, I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 Bloke, any chance you could make a couple of clips and post them - I am very fond of the 15 series Martins and would love to hear yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Jimmy Chaos Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 Thanks very much baldbloke your review is much appreciated. I've seen the TW130 for about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baldbloke Posted February 2, 2011 Author Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 Bloke, any chance you could make a couple of clips and post them - I am very fond of the 15 series Martins and would love to hear yours. I thought about it earlier on tonight in order to demonstrate the differences between the Martin and the Tanglewood. I decided bashfulness outweighed any need to post clips. So didn't. Mrs Baldbloke is asleep right now. I'm sure she'd love to be gently awoken by my beautiful playing but, then maybe she'd strangle me. So can't do it tonight. I'll do a couple of comparison clips tomorrow night. You will have to bear in mind that I haven't a clue how to record properly. But then, I expect my Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baldbloke Posted February 2, 2011 Author Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 Thanks very much baldbloke your review is much appreciated. I've seen the TW130 for about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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