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The Floyd Rose Set-Up Runaround... Any advice?


NoirAbattoir

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You know the drill. I set the trem springs to whereabouts I would like the bridge to sit. I then tune the guitar up with the headstock, tighten the nut, and try to tune it again with the fine tuners. The strings are either too flat or too sharp to compensate for the difference. Undo the nut and start all over again...

 

What is the secret to these damn things? It's been years since I owned one and it's a bit frustrating. Especially since the guitar sounds so damn good and the neck is so fast. It's an Ibanez JS100 loaded with 59s.

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I'm new to owning a guitar with a Floyd Rose and I'm experiencing a few headaches myself. I did see some articles out there that can help though:

http://www.guitarnoise.com/article.php?id=103

http://www.athensmusician.net/archive/2002-04-05_geneguitarguru.php

http://www.meanstreetguitars.com/Guitar%20Tech.htm


My guitar is a Music Man Axis with the Floyd Rose that you can't pull back on so I was hoping it would hold tune better, but I still haven't gotten that science down yet. If anyone out there does not the trick please let me know!

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Just keep tuning. I noticed it helps a little bit when you try to keep the equilibrium of the bridge by tuning E then e, A then B, and D then G. However, I'm usually too lazy to do that. Make sure you back out the fine-tuners so they're all roughly about half-way.

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Originally posted by Achilleos

If locking trems are complex to you, just use fixed bridge. If you've been reduced to the point of asking what is the "secret":rolleyes: , it's hopeless.

 

 

If you haven't got the skills to help someone out then take your ignorant comments elsewhere, jackass...

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Originally posted by kevdog

I'm new to owning a guitar with a Floyd Rose and I'm experiencing a few headaches myself. I did see some articles out there that can help though:









My guitar is a Music Man Axis with the Floyd Rose that you can't pull back on so I was hoping it would hold tune better, but I still haven't gotten that science down yet. If anyone out there does not the trick please let me know!

 

 

Thanks, man. Those links were helpful.

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The key to a FR is blocking the back while you are stretching strings and doing your initial tuning.

Start with the fine tuners turned in a few turns from all the way out and, with stretched strings, tune using the headstock tuners. Unblock the FR and see where the FR floats, adjust the FR springs.

The trick to tuning FR's is making small adjustments. You will get better at it with time.

Blocking a FR is like having a Corvette that is stuck in 3 gear.

EDIT: Not meant as a kick to those who have problems with FR's. Drop tunings are difficult.

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I'm sure it was mentioned in one of the referenced articles, but from your question, I think "the" secret would be to make sure and stretch your strings thoroughly before you tighten down the locking nut. For the first 2-3 days after you put new strings on, undo the locking nut, stretch them out some more, then tighten the locking nut again. I find it really takes a couple of days of stretching the strings to get the tuning stable.

It also sounds like you are having problems with the effect on tuning the locking nut gives. The locking nut itself will make the string go slightly sharp. So one string at a time tune it, tighten down the clamp, and tune it again with the fine tuner. Observe the difference, undo the locking nut, then use the regular tuner to compensate for this. Then when you tighten the locking nut again you should be able to have the fine tuners set how you want them.

Another thing is, once you do have guitar in tune and the locking nut tightened down, you rarely need to adjust the tuning flat for any given string - you almost always are tuning sharp. Given that, I usually will set the fine tuners to be about 2/3 of the way so there is more room to tune them sharp.

And I'm sure you've heard this before, but it bears repeating - change your strings one at a time.

Originally posted by ColorsoundKid

You know the drill. I set the trem springs to whereabouts I would like the bridge to sit. I then tune the guitar up with the headstock, tighten the nut, and try to tune it again with the fine tuners. The strings are either too flat or too sharp to compensate for the difference. Undo the nut and start all over again...


What is the secret to these damn things? It's been years since I owned one and it's a bit frustrating. Especially since the guitar sounds so damn good and the neck is so fast. It's an Ibanez JS100 loaded with 59s.

 

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Originally posted by kevdog

Let me ask a stupid question.... what's the best method for stretching new strings?

 

 

Put your finger on the first fret and pull the strings away from the fretboard with moderate pressure multiple times.

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Been a long time since I had a guitar with a Floyd, but from what I remember I would start by setting the fine-tuners to the middle position. I would leave the locking nut loose and do all my tuning with the keys. As others stated, it's a tune, adjust, repeat situation. Once I got it all set right, then I would lock the nut. After that the fine tuners would have plenty of room to make the small changes that would be needed.

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i had good luck by blocking the bridge and tuning, then slowly tightening the trem claw until the block falls out--it balances where you set it when you block it

next step, just lock down the nut--not too tight, just enough to grab the strings, and fine tune


when re-stringing, change one at a time

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In this first pic, we see the top of the trem. Is pretty much flat level. But just slightly forward tilted. Cause is easier for me to do both forward and rear bends eualy well that way. The fine tuners are all halfway or little more of the way down. No locking nut used. Tunings via headstock. Only rarely uses fine tuers. Doesnt use the locking nut clamps. Never needed em.

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In the 2nd pice see the spring assembly Is hard to tell. But on the low E string side, the assembly is slightly closer to the wood screws go into, into the body. About one turn of screwdriver worth. This helps tension stability. Thicker strings have more tension then lighter ones. We found that this little adjustment helped tuning stability in most all trems. Floyd & Floyd lic included.

 

Steps are 1, get guitar home or out of box. 2 adjust action as desired. Adjust fine tuners half way or slightly more down. Tune it at headstock. 3. adjust trem to about flat level. Retune at heastock. 4. Adjust trem to bout flat level. Slight adjust to that if right for you like I mentioned for my slight adjust for me with first pic. Do the one screwdrive turn tighter on low E string side. 5. Retune at headstock. If you use the locking nut, lock it nowand fine tune at bridge. Otherewise your done.

 

This is how I've done it for the past 30 plus years. Wether floyd, fender, etc. The floyds of course hold tuneing much better then the 70's fender type.

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I'm not gonna read all that.


The answer:

1. Put a 9 volt behind the trem (or for the handy, a block of wood). A 9 volt is usually just about the right size to leave the floyd in floated -"saddles level" position.

2. The idea here is to slacken the trem springs just enough to grab the 9volt and block the trem with full string tension so you can get the tuning established.

3. Restring, stretch and re-stretch till she stays in tune.

Now for the trick:
4. Very carefully tighten the springs at the claw just enough to loosen the 9volt, and viola! A floating trem in tune.

5. Lock her down after some fine tuning and you should be set for awhile.


6. Next time, restring one at a time, stretching them as you go to maintain your float.

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Originally posted by SHIVmongrel

i had good luck by blocking the bridge and tuning, then slowly tightening the trem claw until the block falls out--it balances where you set it when you block it


next step, just lock down the nut--not too tight, just enough to grab the strings, and fine tune



when re-stringing, change one at a time

 

 

What he said.

 

The (temporary) blocking technique also works for Strat type floating tremolos.

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