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  1. Custom-Made, scratch-built, Tele Thinline-type. $550 (w/strap and gigbag) SPECS: -Two-piece, chambered mahogany body -Two-piece, bookmatched, mahogany top -Maple/Ebony neck/fretboard (unstained fretboard) -Wilkinson (by Gotoh) VS-100, Tremolo bridge -Gotoh locking tuning-machines -Traditional-looking Tele controls, that actually provide 12 coil-switching options (via 4-way switch and push/pull pots). Currently wiring is for the pots to switch between parallel and series humbucking-modes (could be re-wired to split the humbuckers) -25.5" scale -10" fretboard radius -1.687" nut width (bone nut) -21 medium Jumbo, nickle-silver frets -Two custom-wound humbuckers (7.5k & 8.0K ohm, Alnico V) -Traditional single-action truss-rod, adjusted at heel -C-shape neck profile -Trans "Rootbeer", body color. Gloss poly finish -Neck is attached via machine-screws and threaded inserts I won't be shipping this guitar, so I'm looking for a local Southern California buyer, who will either come to me, or I can go to (perhaps within 150 miles of the Zip Code 92342). Please PM or email me at: dalenoir10@yahoo.com This guitar was built by me, under the supervision of a master-luthier, and was my final-project at Musician's Institute's luthery school (circa: 2004). It was not a pre-made parts-build, but rather the wood was carved from raw lumber, and hand constructed. Documentation of my attendance and completion of the school will be provided. ("New Economy", forces sale) The guitar is in very good condition (never gigged), but does have a few small dings (none expose the wood) on the body, and does have some light scratches. The neck has no dings. The frets have light wear. the hardware is complete, including the tremolo-bar and back-plate. Currently set-up to Fender action/relief specs, with .009" strings
  2. Do I remember correctly that there was some sort of cross-pollenation between Washburn and Barrington? EDIT: http://acapella.harmony-central.com/archive/index.php/index.php/t-1671649.html
  3. I'm all for making my guitar play well, but that Viper is becoming sort-of collectable. I won't go around modifying it in ways that cause permanent alterations. But that's just me.
  4. Just a thought, but if the post/knife edges are OK, then perhaps it'd be possible to create new notch in the locking-arm, which would be placed in the spot that you find the spring to have the best "feel". But (assuming the above mentioned parts are OK), I like the idea of exchanging the stock-spring for one with a different rate. (still haven't found any info for this type of swap).
  5. The trem on mine seems pretty good. Having trouble finding a hex key that'll let me sort the intonation though. I knew that in the UK there was a bit of resistance to full integration with the EU, but don't you have metric Allen (hex) wrenches over there? If my memory is correct it's a .5 mm wrench (FYI: my memory is rarely correct)
  6. It looks to me like the OP understands this, but many people seem to believe that the spring-knob is to adjust the spring-tension/action of the tremolo. Of course that knob's real purpose it to allow the player to bring the tremolo back to a floating position that is the same was the locked position. Locked is where the guitar should be tuned--the the lock is released, and the knob is adjusted to bring the trem back to "Zero". As far as the spring-rate (feel) is concerned, I imagine someone out there must have found replacements springs with different rates that will fit, but I don't know about them. I keep mine locked.
  7. Let's put it this way: In the 6 years that I've been on this forum, I've never signed-up for another guitar related forum---until 2.0 came along, and then I signed-up for two other forums. I've voted with my finger-tips. Signed.
  8. Is that one of those new PS/2 tremolo units that I've heard so much about?
  9. Here's your guy-guitar player who looks like a girl on the cover of a mag: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/206/499102054_3650da49a9.jpg?v=0 http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_dsERfy7Ib70/SC8gnxkJIxI/AAAAAAAAADQ/y1RH-25HcBQ/s320/Zakk%2BWylde%281987%29.jpg
  10. For all I know, this is 100% genuine, but anytime I see a fancy LP with bad photos and those static-cling pick-up overlays, I get real suspicious: http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/msg/1561727982.html
  11. Just came across this and thought it might help (scroll down to the pic of a pot with a resistor/capacitor): http://www.richbeckguitars.com/faq/ Good luck!
  12. ... bring my girlfriends Can non... I'm sure large-bore firearms are unnecessary. Although I am impressed at your girlfriends taste in weaponry.
  13. Fender is also using what is called no load pots. Supposedly, can be used as either volume or tone. I'm not buying it. The audio and linear taper pots are not as easy to find as they used to be. Surfy If I understand correctly, the "no-load" really isn't about the taper, except at the very end of the resistance-strip, where there is no longer any electrical connection through the pot. Here's a link to a DIY mod on a CTS post that achieves the "no-load", and I think it's enlightening: http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-tech/127070-no-load-mod-cts-pot.html Some pot taper info: http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm
  14. Maybe my eyes are going, but in that one pic, it doesn't look like the pickup rings line up properly. I believe that is an artifact of a bad digital image. If you look at the fretboard inlays, they appear to "sliced" and out of alignment (perhaps it was an artistic choice by the photographer, who is a fan of Picasso). I'm far from an expert, but I could make no judgment based on those bad pics.
  15. Those pickup mounting screws looks as though they are sitting a bit "proud" from the surface of the pickup. Like they might catch on your hand. (trick of the light?) I prefer my Asian guitars without "MSG" (yeah, it's a cheap-shot, but it's all I got).
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