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Tundra_Man

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    Sioux Falls, SD

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  1. That exact guitar was my 1st (if the one you're looking at is blue.) I bought mine in late 1989 for about $350, and sold it approximately 9 months later for $300. I got the best part of that deal. My own experience was that it was a huge pile of junk. The pickups sounded OK until I tried playing at a volume loud enough to hear over my brother's drums, then they became so microphonic it was unplayable. Mine held tuning adequately, but not perfectly. The hardware was pretty low-end. It did give me a great test-bed to learn how to do my own maintenance and setups. It looked kind of cool, if you're into the '80s shredding machines and the crackle finish, which I was at the time but have since drifted away. If it plays well and stays in tune, then it may be worth $120 to you. I wouldn't own another one, but that's just me. Hope this helps!
  2. For a "one piece" neck, you rout the truss rod slot from the back. The usual recommendation for the amount of wood to leave on the fretboard side is 1/4"; I wouldn't go any less than 3/16". If you're using a traditional truss rod, the slot has to be curved, with the ends of the rod closer to the fretboard. I can't remember the amount of the curve off the top of my head. If you use a dual-action truss rod, then they usually can sit in a straight slot. With the truss rod in place, you glue in a filler strip (often done in a different color wood ala "skunk stripe") to hold the truss rod. Then when you profile the back of the neck the filler strip will be cut flush with the rest of the wood. If you're serious about getting into building and don't already have it, I recommend Melvyn Hiscock's book. Great resource.
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