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Tremolos


jvhc

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So what's the deal with these things? People say that they get annoying, are never used, make the guitar go out of tune, make the strings go out of tune when one snaps... And then you see people using them to great affect, with no hassle at all. So what makes a good tremolo, and why do some stay in tune and some not? Syncronization points etc.? Also, does a locking nut help?

 

Thanks alot!

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Good set up, lubrication, and intelligent usage is the key. Trems usually will do fine as long as the bridge saddles are smooth and burr free and the nut is cut properly and has good "fall away" at the back of the slot. Good downward pull from the nut to the tuner is key too. This can be harder to achieve on a Fender style headstock. Some use string trees, which need lubrication. Another idea is staggerd post locking tuners. Locking nuts do work but are a pain in the ass. They also alter how the trem performs. If you like dive bombing and tricks a locking nut will probably help. If you like subtle vibrato or surf guitar a locking nut will mess with the way the strings behave compared to a standard one. The main thing to remember is to ease into and out of any extreme sounds and stick to "drop only" as a rule of thumb and you'll stay in tune with a well maintained standard vibrato.

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I have three types, Fender vintage 6 screw, Fender 2 screw, (almost the same), PRS, and Floyd Rose.

 

The Rose is the most stable for heavy usage (think Joe Satriani). Hard to restring though and I can never get used to the big nut catching the side of my index finger.

 

The Fenders can be set up to work well but this usually means making it flush with the body so it will only go down in pitch. You need to make sure the nut is lubed and locking tuners help. I have two that stay in tune pretty well with moderate usage.

 

The best one for me is on my PRS CE24. It looks like the Fender trem bridge but it stays in tune better. I have no idea why. I can do, say, Eruption and 2 or 3 VH tunes in a row with fairly heavy trem usage and it stays in tune fairly well.

 

I prefer trems to stop tails but I use both. It all depends on what you are going to play. If your music doesn't call for it then why bother?

OTOH, if you do covers that require it there's really no way around having one.

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Staggered post locking tuners are tuners where the post height is varied, depending on which string it is. On a Strat headstock, they're generally higher closer to the nut and lower the further out you go, so the "high-e" will be the shortest. These generally give you enough of an angle over the nut to negate the need for string trees (which add friction and another point of potential tuning instability).

 

"Locking" posts don't lock the post to prevent them from moving, they lock the string in the tuner so you don't have to have multiple windings around the tuner. You can just pull the string tight through, lock it and tune it. You should have about half a winding after it's tuned. They're mainly for easier string changing, however they may help with tuning stability because they eliminate the multiple windings that can cause tuning to shift when divebombing.

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Originally posted by jvhc

Oh right thanks. Are they easy to install?

 

 

It depends on what kind you buy. Planet Waves (D'Addario) makes a set called TrimLoks which work well, have an 18:1 ratio and even trim the excess string off as you tune. The go on with no mods - direct replacement which means no extra screw holes which means you could always put the originals back on and nobody would ever be able to tell that they were changed.

 

The other kind I have are the Sperzels. I like them and they work well but they require a little hole to be drilled on the back of the headstock for a peg that holds them straight. Plus, the screw holes don't always match up so you may see the original old screw holes next to them.

 

That's the two types I have used and I like them both. Makes changing strings a breeze. And you can change a string in a couple of minutes.

Improper string winding techniques on traditional tuners can cause all sorts of tuning issues. I've learned how to do it properly and I have a couple of guitars that I don't want to change but locking tuners are the way to go, imho.

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As long as your willing to set it up right, the better lic floyds work great. Real floyds are more hassle then these in my exp. fender style trems arent to great but again can be useable if set up well. Light gauge strings (9's & 10s) also work better with trems in my experience.

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Originally posted by Darkstorm

As long as your willing to set it up right, the better lic floyds work great. Real floyds are more hassle then these in my exp. fender style trems arent to great but again can be useable if set up well.

 

 

The better Licenced Floyds are easier than the Original Floyd they're trying to copy? How?

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Originally posted by Darkstorm

As long as your willing to set it up right, the better lic floyds work great. Real floyds are more hassle then these in my exp.

 

 

???

I've never used a lic. Floyd that worked. I've had about 6 guitars with real Floyds and every one of them held tune like a pitbull on a mailman.

I have an early Floyd (no fine tuners) on my Dillion along with locking PW tuners and a graphite nut and it held tune ok but not perfect. Even with light vibrato I could hear that open chords were slightly out.

Last night I put a locking nut on it and I could not knock it out of tune. Good thing too, without fine tuners I can't fine tune without unlocking the nut.

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Originally posted by buddastrat

setup and skill. You have to practice it like anything else.


No special tuners or sliding nuts are needed bro'. Just some good ole' fashion practice!

 

That's true - kinda sorta....

Practice is the key to everything, of course.

But some trems work better than others. At least from my experience. And you can set them up to work better. Just a factoid. :)

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