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Anyone have experience with 30 year old les pauls?


tacoshow

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I'm seriously considering buying a '76 LP off this guy. It has normal checking and wear for it's age, but is all original save for the tuners which were changed to Grovers. It's giving me gas to be certain, but I'm still hesitant for a couple of reasons -

 

1) I'm not sure how this will hold up to being an everyday player.

 

2) I play a pretty hard rock style of music. My amps are a Peavey 6505 and an ENGL Fireball. I'd hate to think that the stock pickups will be so disappointing that I'll have to swap 'em out (though I'm resigned that it may be the case).

 

So the question is, are any of you experienced with this type of thing and/or what insights might you have to provide??

 

thanks in advance!

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I know, that's what I'm thinking too. The only thing I'd consider changing would be maybe the bridge pickup. But even that isn't my preference. Of course, this goes to my first point/reservation - don't know how it'd hold up as an everyday player. I mean, if the pots start getting scratchy/bad, then they'd have to be replaced, etc... etc....

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Why buy a 30 year old Les Paul and tinker with it? Wouldn't you be much better off getting an ESP or something with EMG's in it?. If you're getting a deal on the Les Paul, buy it, throw it up on the Bay, make some quick money then Buy an ESP with some EMG's...:thu:

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I'm seriously considering buying a '76 LP off this guy. It has normal checking and wear for it's age, but is all original save for the tuners which were changed to Grovers. It's giving me gas to be certain, but I'm still hesitant for a couple of reasons -


1) I'm not sure how this will hold up to being an everyday player.


2) I play a pretty hard rock style of music. My amps are a Peavey 6505 and an ENGL Fireball. I'd hate to think that the stock pickups will be so disappointing that I'll have to swap 'em out (though I'm resigned that it may be the case).


So the question is, are any of you experienced with this type of thing and/or what insights might you have to provide??


thanks in advance!

 

If the pots and pickups are original and you find them to be less than good, then swap them out and keep them, so should you not bond with it and need to resell then just swap them back in. It ain't rocket science.:thu:

 

My chief concern is that makes it a mid to late 70s model.....not the peak of Les Paulness, unless it's a Deluxe and you're dead set on a Deluxe?

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Not to be disrespectful ... but I find this to be humorous.

 

1) I'm not sure how this will hold up to being an everyday player.

 

 

Damned things are built like tanks and nearly weigh the same. Hell yeah!! it'll stand up. You might not after playing if for 4 hrs. But that guitar will. BTW, leave the pots alone. There'll be more damned solder on them pots than you'll care to mess with. Probably adds to the weight.

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Mine's holding up very well!!!

It only had 1 p/up in it when I got it,& I sold off the Witchhat knobs to a friend of mine & added Dunlops.

It's a great guitar,but I play it very sparingly,mainly because it's a 20th Anniversary & in VG+ condition.I played it a lot when I first got it,but then I dinged it at band practice & the lightbulb went off...Just makes sense not to beat it up,although when I was shopping I just wanted a beat-up Black Custom...So I bought an Epi for the live LP-duty,it's working out really well,too!!!

:thu

If it's nice & broken in/dinged,all the better!!!

100_0365.jpg

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Good points to all. I have a custom shop ESP that serves it's purpose. This one I'm looking at is a 76 LP standard, not deluxe. Ratae - what's wrong with mid-70's pauls that caused you to say that? I'd not heard there was anything particularly weak about them before so I'm rather interested in your insights there

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Buy a vintage Les Paul and then put EMGs in it? Les Paul is turning over in his grave and the bastard ain't even dead yet! Buy that guitar, assuming you are getting a great deal on it, then sell it to someone that has some respect for it, then buy a Schecter.. They go well with EMGs..

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Buy a vintage Les Paul and then put EMGs in it? Les Paul is turning over in his grave and the bastard ain't even dead yet! Buy that guitar, assuming you are getting a great deal on it, then sell it to someone that has some respect for it, then buy a Schecter.. They go well with EMGs..

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Yeah, I have zero desire to plop EMG's in it. If I were going to change out a pickup it would probable be bridge only and for something passive. Of course, that's only if the stock pickups aren't tonally suitable. I'd think between the 2 amps I have there's more than enough "high-gain", but...

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Ratae - what's wrong with mid-70's pauls that caused you to say that? I'd not heard there was anything particularly weak about them before so I'm rather interested in your insights there

 

They fall in the so called Norlin era, and were often multi pieced bodies and tops, although I personally like the 70s models with the maple neck....so much I'm building one. Just do a bit of research on Norlin era LPs. You'll probbaly still like em.:)

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Change in the Solder joints CAN directly affect value for some collectors... beware.

 

 

The kind of collectors that worry about that won't touch a '76 LP. While the '70's models have been increasing in value, it isn't the collectors market driving them up, they won't touch a Norlin becasue there is nothing exceptional about the build or materials. '70's prices are driven up by the casual buyer who just wants an old Gibson, but can't afford a collector piece.

 

As to the original post.

 

It'll need a refret if it hasn't had one already, almost certain. The LP's of that time had short, wide, overdressed frets that are often called "school bus" frets due to their appearance. They were low when it shipped from the factory, they may be nonexistant now.

 

It may be really heavy, that was common at the time. There was a big fad were players wanted the heaviest guitar they could find because they believed it increased sustain (it was a myth).

 

As to the pickups. You may have to replace them. First off, the stock PU's of the day were on the mellow side, and you'll want something tight and overwound to drive a hi-gain amp. Generally, you match PU's to the amp being used, lower output PU's for vintage low-gain amps, higher output PU's for hi-gain; while hot PU's often sound harsh into a vintage amp, they help the guitar signal stay focused and clear and not turn into a wall of gray sound driving a hot modern preamp design.

 

Also, the PU's weren't potted back then, Gibsons didn't start using potted PU's in their guitars until the mid- to late-'90's. After thirty years, they tend to go microphonic when exposed to hi-gain.

 

Try, try, try before you buy. Every LP was different back than -- necks were hand-shaped, so no two are alike; weight varied from 8.5 to 12 lbs; wood quality was quite varied; etc.

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I have a 55-77 which I just realized is 30 years old :eek:

 

I bought it in '91 and it's worked fine for me apart from a broken headstock that was easily fixed.

 

I also owned a '78 standard that was stolen :mad: (and led me to buy the 55-77). They were/are both great guitars, fun to play.

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The kind of collectors that worry about that won't touch a '76 LP. While the '70's models have been increasing in value, it isn't the collectors market driving them up, they won't touch a Norlin becasue there is nothing exceptional about the build or materials. '70's prices are driven up by the casual buyer who just wants an old Gibson, but can't afford a collector piece.


As to the original post.


It'll need a refret if it hasn't had one already, almost certain. The LP's of that time had short, wide, overdressed frets that are often called "school bus" frets due to their appearance. They were low when it shipped from the factory, they may be nonexistant now.


It may be really heavy, that was common at the time. There was a big fad were players wanted the heaviest guitar they could find because they believed it increased sustain (it was a myth).


As to the pickups. You may have to replace them. First off, the stock PU's of the day were on the mellow side, and you'll want something tight and overwound to drive a hi-gain amp. Generally, you match PU's to the amp being used, lower output PU's for vintage low-gain amps, higher output PU's for hi-gain; while hot PU's often sound harsh into a vintage amp, they help the guitar signal stay focused and clear and not turn into a wall of gray sound driving a hot modern preamp design.


Also, the PU's weren't potted back then, Gibsons didn't start using potted PU's in their guitars until the mid- to late-'90's. After thirty years, they tend to go microphonic when exposed to hi-gain.


Try, try, try before you buy. Every LP was different back than -- necks were hand-shaped, so no two are alike; weight varied from 8.5 to 12 lbs; wood quality was quite varied; etc.

 

 

Thanks very much for this information. You just saved me money!!!

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