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Warmoth necks...finished or not?


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Nope. No drawbacks I can think of.

I actually have two of their maple necks that 'require' finish, and left them unfinished. One of them is 5 years old, the other is 3, and they are both holding up just fine. It does void the warranty if you leave maple unfinished though.

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Thanks for the responses, guys. Zinsser's Bullseye Sealcoat...why is this all that will work? Sorry, I know nothing about finishing! Any other input from experienced buyers would be great. Thanks

 

 

Any help at all will be highly appreciated here too!

 

How were the "classic" early 80's Charvel necks finished? I think it was an oil base. They felt freekin' wonderful!

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I just don't like the look of the woods that don't need finish. I bought a maple neck with pao ferro fingerboard and it was very easy to finish the maple with minwax wipe on poly. It is a satin finish and feels a lot like raw wood, but is smoother and covers the warranty.

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There is no downside if selecting woods that don't need any finish. You get that warm, organic, silky smooth wood feel.

If you want maple, then you can always Tru-oil it yourself. Tru-Oil is the finish most often used for gun stocks, it wipes on, dries hard and it is a Warmoth-approved finish. It's as easy as wiping on repeating coats with some occasional sanding in-between.

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Where can one by this Tru-Oil?

 

Wal-Mart or just about any type of hunting/sports supply store. Buy small bottles, once open it's shelf life is short.

 

There are a few threads on the subject here if you search for them, people have discussed their success and methods.

 

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html

 

The Birchwood-Casey company (makers) have a great brochure on to use it to finish gun stocks, the exact same procedure can be used with guitar necks.

 

You can study on how to use wood dyes to pull out flame or birdseye in maple and duplicate this Tru-oil finish by G&L.

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