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Help needed: is my Yorkville LS800 broken?


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Amigos,

 

 

Quick question, a few days ago I plugged in my PA which consists of 2 Yorkville EF500s, 2 Yorkville LS800s, a Mackie 1604 and Peavey VSX 26.

 

This system is less than a year old, has only been run 4 or 5 times at lower- than-show levels and has basically been pampered.

 

 

Everything seemed fine. Except I noticed the right side wasn't nearly as loud as the left. Upon further inspection I noticed no sound was coming out of the right LS800. After 10 mins of debugging I determined there was a signal getting to the box but no sound was coming out. It worked fine when I previously ran it about a month ago.

 

 

When I turn the power switch to 'on' it doesn't even sound like anything is happening (unlike the other LS800).

 

 

Does anybody have any ideas? Is there a Yorkville service center near Seattle?

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

SOMMS

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Maybe write Yorkville an email or call them first to see if they are able to diagnose/troubleshoot the problem. If not, your dealer will service it for free under warranty - unless you did not purchase it from a local dealer... then you may have to ship the unit. Al

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Amigos,



Quick question, a few days ago I plugged in my PA which consists of 2 Yorkville EF500s, 2 Yorkville LS800s, a Mackie 1604 and Peavey VSX 26.


This system is less than a year old, has only been run 4 or 5 times at lower- than-show levels and has basically been pampered.



Everything seemed fine. Except I noticed the right side wasn't nearly as loud as the left. Upon further inspection I noticed no sound was coming out of the right LS800. After 10 mins of debugging I determined there was a signal getting to the box but no sound was coming out. It worked fine when I previously ran it about a month ago.



When I turn the power switch to 'on' it doesn't even sound like anything is happening (unlike the other LS800).



Does anybody have any ideas? Is there a Yorkville service center near Seattle?



Thanks,



SOMMS

 

 

 

It could be something simple like a poor solder joint or something more serious. I'm not sure if Yorkville put some type of protection circuit in this box. I know some of the older top boxes use a light as an overload protector.

 

I would carefully remove the rear input jack and inspect all the connections there. Once the plate is off you should be able to use a flashlight to do a visual inspection to see if the leads are still connected to the speaker. You could meter the connections for continuity.

 

With the rear plate off inspect the outer edge of the magnet to see if it may have shifted in transportation. You are looking for a crack that would run around the entire outer edge of the magnet. You should be able to feel it with your fingers.

 

If the magnet is cracked that driver is toast. If the box was purchased less than 2 years ago you have warranty on it. If not you will have to buy a replacement.

 

Neil

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Sounds like a powered box... not user serviceable. Call Yorkville. Hope it's under warranty. Don't take it apart and try to fix it yourself or you may find that nobody else will work on it. Service shops don't generally work on something that had been taken apart by it's owner. I know that we run the other way when we see something come in like that.

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Sounds like a powered box... not user serviceable. Call Yorkville. Hope it's under warranty. Don't take it apart and try to fix it yourself or you may find that nobody else will work on it. Service shops don't generally work on something that had been taken apart by it's owner. I know that we run the other way when we see something come in like that.

 

 

My bad. The OP stated that this is a LS800, which is a passive box. The LS800p is the powered version. Reviewing the first post in context I believe you are right and this is a powered box. If that is the case there are no user servicable parts inside.

 

Neil

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All,

 

 

Thanks for the input. The unit in question is an LS800P...the active version. I did make sure the input was set to 'LINE'. I really don't want to take it apart as I'm sure that would void something and the box still is under warranty. The problem is I don't know of any Yorkville service locations near Seattle.

 

 

Does anybody know where the nearest one is? Who would you use to ship this box (its pretty big...145 lbs) back to Yorkville?

 

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

SOMMS

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I'm not sure, but I bet it'll have to go by truck (Freight). There are probably several companies in your area. Get quotes from all of them. But I'd call Yorkville first -- they may have some ideas to help you out, besides, you'll need to call them before sending it back to get a RTA.

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If you don't get a power light and don't hear any relays click inside upon power on, I would check the fuse and look for any loose internal power connections (obviously disconnect the main AC power feed before opening the cabinet!). If everything looks good but still doesn't work, contact Audio East and get an RMA number. It may be possible to send just the power amp module and not the entire cabinet back to Yorkville. If you don't feel comfortable doing the above checks yourself, find a nearby service center or call for an RMA number.

 

One of our customers just had an issue with a U15P that wouldn't power up, it was just an internal power connector that became disconnected. He was able to successfully open the cabinet, plug in the connector, close up the cabinet and go!

 

Jeff

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Tom Keefer at Yorkville can advise you if there is a shop near you that is authorized to do warranty work, and he is probably also the person that would issue an RA number for any product returns.

 

If he okays it, and you can determine whether the problem is with the amp module or the driver, they would probably just have you ship back the faulty component for repair or replacement. They generally would rather avoid the cost of shipping big cabinets back and forth across the country just like you would. Once you had it opened up you could look for any obvious issues like a broken connection.

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This thread is the reason why I am against and will always be against powered speakers. You are at the mercy of the manufacturer and his proprietary product. The costs of repair reflect the fact that you are handcuffed. Not user serviceable, means that it is a license to gouge you once it is out of warranty. In warranty....you are responsible for the shipping costs. On a 145 lb active speaker, it will be pricey.

 

If it is the amp section, you cannot just plug in another amp like you can on a passive speaker. On a passive, you just plug another amp in. That means any brand of amp...new or used. Spare amps I got!

 

If it is the speaker, you just get it reconed or buy a replacement.

 

Been around long enough....to see all of this stuff in other industries.

 

BTW: The LS808 is the passive version and is the only one I would ever buy.

 

:thu:

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Tom Keefer at Yorkville can advise you if there is a shop near you that is authorized to do warranty work, and he is probably also the person that would issue an RA number for any product returns.


If he okays it, and you can determine whether the problem is with the amp module or the driver, they would probably just have you ship back the faulty component for repair or replacement. They generally would rather avoid the cost of shipping big cabinets back and forth across the country just like you would. Once you had it opened up you could look for any obvious issues like a broken connection.

 

 

 

Thanks a ton man. I will try to get in contact with Tom Keefer.

 

 

-SOMMS

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This thread is the reason why I am against and will always be against powered speakers. You are at the mercy of the manufacturer and his proprietary product. The costs of repair reflect the fact that you are handcuffed. Not user serviceable, means that it is a license to gouge you once it is out of warranty. In warranty....you are responsible for the shipping costs. On a 145 lb active speaker, it will be pricey.


If it is the amp section, you cannot just plug in another amp like you can on a passive speaker. On a passive, you just plug another amp in. That means any brand of amp...new or used. Spare amps I got!


If it is the speaker, you just get it reconed or buy a replacement.


Been around long enough....to see all of this stuff in other industries.


BTW: The LS808 is the passive version and is the only one I would ever buy.


:thu:

 

 

It's no less user-serviceable than a power amp would be.

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It's no less user-serviceable than a power amp would be.

 

I think he is just saying that if an external (rack-mount) amplifier were to break, you can still use the speakers that were being powered by it - you just have to plug them into another amp. He is making a valid point that if the amp built into a powered speaker breaks (as has happened here), the speaker is unusable until the amp is fixed, whereas with a passive speaker you could just plug in another amp and still use the speaker without any problem.

 

:thu:

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I know what he means, but with a powered speaker, replace it with a spare (rather than needing a spare amp and spare speaker) and wherever the problem is, it's solved.

 

I'm just pointing out that it's not that big of a deal considering the possible benefits of powered speakers for some users. That said, I have almost no powered speakers in my inventory due to my applications.

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I think he is just saying that if an external (rack-mount) amplifier were to break, you can still use the speakers that were being powered by it - you just have to plug them into another amp. He is making a valid point that if the amp built into a powered speaker breaks (as has happened here), the speaker is unusable until the amp is fixed, whereas with a passive speaker you could just plug in another amp and still use the speaker without any problem.


:thu:

 

 

The poster has no idea what is wrong with the speaker/amp combo. If the speaker inside the box is damaged then your in the same boat as if a speaker in an unpowered box is damaged. Replace it with a "Spare" that everyone seems to have around. If the amp section is bad remove it and send it back for repair just as you would any other amp. While it is out you could put in a plywood cutout with a 1/4 or speakon connector and feed the speaker direct with a spare crossover/amp that everyone seems to have around and paided for even though they may only use it once every 5/10 years......Geezzzz.:rolleyes:

If you can carry a spare amp around it wouldn't be any harder to have a piece of plywood with a connector around would it? Powered speakers don't fail any more than nonpowered setups do.

I feel the biggest problem that powered speaker have is that the companies that sell them don't seem to offer spare amp modules for sale.

If a person is willing to have a spare amp or two around then they wouldn't mind having a spare amp module as well. I would guess a powered amp module for a speaker would be less overall cost as it has only one job.

 

Everything in the signal chain can fail from the desk,eq's,crossovers,amps and drivers. Does "everyone" carry spares for everything everytime? I would guess not.

 

When the speaker is repaired could SOMMS post so we can all know what went wrong?

 

Thanks

Dookiethree

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Dumb question but there is a little push button on mine on the left hand side. i have mine set to line. have u tried playing with that? (button in or out) You're also plugged into the input, and not the mono blend input right?

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I know what he means, but with a powered speaker, replace it with a spare (rather than needing a spare amp and spare speaker) and wherever the problem is, it's solved.


I'm just pointing out that it's not that big of a deal considering the possible benefits of powered speakers for some users. That said, I have almost no powered speakers in my inventory due to my applications.

 

You make a very valid point based on that analysis, Andy. And you know that I have tremendous respect for your opinions.

 

But there is something more important surrounding my point.

 

The first is that I have purchased great amps at firesale prices either used or new, at Going Out of Business Liquidations, Auctions, Band Breakups, or from Cash Strapped Musicians. Many of which were bought a fraction of their street values. Soundtech PS-1300s for $199 ea, Yamaha PD-2500s in the Eighties, less than 2 years old for 30% of their list prices. (Those old Yamaha's bridge at 750 rms into 8 ohms and although they are not my first choice for a sub amp....they work great if required to do so.). I use them generally to run the tops in small PA's.

 

I basically own them, use them for years and sell them eventually for more than what I paid for them. I have never had to have one repaired in all the years that I have owned every one of them. I still have Yamaha 2201 and PD2500 amps from the 80's among the newer stuff that I have, that are bullet proof. I have enought that there is always a spare around. If anything serious happened to a lot of this stuff, I would just throw it out since they are long paid for.

 

Powered speakers mean that I am stuck dealing with the manufacturer who built it and the cost of repair is not negotiable. If the item is $1000.00 new and the repair is $500.00, (including the shipping), cause you fried one, you are snookered. Repair it or it is a Boat Anchor.

 

You only have a limited number of authorized repair facilities.....if there is even one in your State or Province.

 

I cannot just plug in another QSC, Peavey, Soundtech, or Yamaha etc. If the amp section goes in a Powered Speaker my downtime is longer and there is no instant relief from it. I can't even bridge a smaller amp into 8 ohms to do temporary sub duty.

 

My speakers were designed by me for the most part and I used alot of basket replaceable woofers and always have spare diaphrams for the horns. If one goes on a Friday night, I can have it back up and running for Saturday.

 

I just can't do that with powered speakers. They make about as much sense to me, as a TV with a built in VCR or DVD player that does not work.

 

They may well be more convenient and easy to use, and for lots of people they may make sense. For me they do not.

 

If you are a band, with one set of these that you used for the Friday Night Gig and something goes.....you are limping on Saturday. If this is the night before New Years or just about anytime when company Christmas Dances are happening.....You are not getting ANY rental replacement anywhere at any Music Shop, or Sound Company in Toronto, cause everything,everywhere is out......including all of my stuff.:thu:

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I know what he means, but with a powered speaker, replace it with a spare (rather than needing a spare amp and spare speaker) and wherever the problem is, it's solved.


I'm just pointing out that it's not that big of a deal considering the possible benefits of powered speakers for some users. That said, I have almost no powered speakers in my inventory due to my applications.

 

You make a very valid point based on that analysis, Andy. And you know that I have tremendous respect for your opinions.

 

But there is something more important surrounding my point.

 

The first is that I have purchased great amps at firesale prices either used or new, at Going Out of Business Liquidations, Auctions, Band Breakups, or from Cash Strapped Musicians. Many of which were bought a fraction of their street values. Soundtech PS-1300s for $199 ea, Yamaha PD-2500s in the Eighties, less than 2 years old for 30% of their list prices. (Those old Yamaha's bridge at 750 rms into 8 ohms and although they are not my first choice for a sub amp....they work great if required to do so.). I use them generally to run the tops in small PA's.

 

I basically own them, use them for years and sell them eventually for more than what I paid for them. I have never had to have one repaired in all the years that I have owned every one of them. I still have Yamaha 2201 and PD2500 amps from the 80's among the newer stuff that I have, that are bullet proof. I have enought that there is always a spare around. If anything serious happened to a lot of this stuff, I would just throw it out since they are long paid for.

 

Powered speakers mean that I am stuck dealing with the manufacturer who built it and the cost of repair is not negotiable. If the item is $1000.00 new and the repair is $500.00, (including the shipping), cause you fried one, you are snookered. Repair it or it is a Boat Anchor.

 

You only have a limited number of authorized repair facilities.....if there is even one in your State or Province.

 

I cannot just plug in another QSC, Peavey, Soundtech, or Yamaha etc. If the amp section goes in a Powered Speaker my downtime is longer and there is no instant relief from it. I can't even bridge a smaller amp into 8 ohms to do temporary sub duty.

 

My speakers were designed by me for the most part and I used alot of basket replaceable woofers and always have spare diaphrams for the horns. If one goes on a Friday night, I can have it back up and running for Saturday.

 

I just can't do that with powered speakers. They make about as much sense to me, as a TV with a built in VCR or DVD player that does not work.

 

They may well be more convenient and easy to use, and for lots of people they may make sense. For me they do not.

 

If you are a band, with one set of these that you used for the Friday Night Gig and something goes.....you are limping on Saturday. If this is the night before New Years or just about anytime when company Christmas Dances are happening.....You are not getting ANY rental replacement anywhere at any Music Shop, or Sound Company in Toronto, cause everything,everywhere is out......including all of my stuff.:thu:

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If you handle your gear in a reasonable way, a powered speaker will probably have better reliability than seperates, as it's way easier and more effective to protect a set of drivers when you know all the parameters. that's what is driving the powered speaker market. If fear of failure is that great, buy a spare powered speaker, then it doesn't matter where the problem is, it's solved. In the last 5 years, I've had a total of 2 failures and that's with an inventory of about 65 speakers and 30+ amps. One was a small format diaphram due to a user accident and the other was an amp that got wet from another accident (pipe split in a building truss and the water traveled down the speaker cable right into the amp rack.) This is in a wide variety of situations too.

 

If you buy decent gear, and operate it reasonably, the reliability is really pretty darned good.

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The poster has no idea what is wrong with the speaker/amp combo. If the speaker inside the box is damaged then your in the same boat as if a speaker in an unpowered box is damaged. Replace it with a "Spare" that everyone seems to have around. If the amp section is bad remove it and send it back for repair just as you would any other amp. While it is out you could put in a plywood cutout with a 1/4 or speakon connector and feed the speaker direct with a spare crossover/amp that everyone seems to have around and paided for even though they may only use it once every 5/10 years......Geezzzz.
:rolleyes:
If you can carry a spare amp around it wouldn't be any harder to have a piece of plywood with a connector around would it? Powered speakers don't fail any more than nonpowered setups do.

I feel the biggest problem that powered speaker have is that the companies that sell them don't seem to offer spare amp modules for sale.

If a person is willing to have a spare amp or two around then they wouldn't mind having a spare amp module as well. I would guess a powered amp module for a speaker would be less overall cost as it has only one job.


Everything in the signal chain can fail from the desk,eq's,crossovers,amps and drivers. Does "everyone" carry spares for everything everytime? I would guess not.


When the speaker is repaired could SOMMS post so we can all know what went wrong?


Thanks

Dookiethree

 

Hey hey, when I get an explanation from Yorkville I will be sure to post what happened wrong. I'm just sort of mystified. These boxes getting nothing but rave reviews here and I have taken immaculate care of this thing and haven't had it very long and it bums out on me. I guess I'm kinda bummed. Shipping is going to be pricey...at least $120.

 

 

-SOMMS

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Dumb question but there is a little push button on mine on the left hand side. i have mine set to line. have u tried playing with that? (button in or out) You're also plugged into the input, and not the mono blend input right?

 

 

 

Good questions but I've got all this set correctly. LINE and the input is going to input...not mono blend. Thanks though.

 

 

SOMMS

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All,

 

Thanks so much for your responses. As it turns out. Steve from AudioEast gave me a call yesterday and talked with me at length about what I should do. Basically I either have a bad speaker or a bad driver. I need to figure out which one...then send it to yorkville and have them fix it. I have not tested a speaker yet but how hard can it be right?

 

 

-SOMMS

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