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Snare lug question...


cdawg

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so, building a single lug snare. i would like machined lugs, but i assume i might run into trouble, as far as tuning (tension rods running into each other inside the lug?) how do you measure correctly?

also, i assume you need to get the rims first, seeing that the lugs dont have the "play" in them, as far as the tension rods go?

 

advise?

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Well it seems to me that the length of the lug isn't as important as the length of the tension rod. You could have a lug 1 in long or 3 in's long, but the rods need to be the proper length for the drum. What we need to know however is what is the depth of the shell? From there we can help figure out the max/min length of the lug.

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Well it seems to me that the length of the lug isn't as important as the length of the tension rod. You could have a lug 1 in long or 3 in's long, but the rods need to be the proper length for the drum. What we need to know however is what is the depth of the shell? From there we can help figure out the max/min length of the lug.

 

 

This, the depth of the shell, and the rim will tell you how long the tension rods can be, the length of the lug just depends on how much of the rods you want inside it

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Is this an IQ test?

 

 

shut up, or mowtown1 will step in.

 

as for the depth, it 10". and i was looking at single-point lugs, to avoid drilling more holes, as it's a vintage shell. but, like i said, i was worrying about the tension rods hitting each other when i tighten them down (i read of this happening.) if it does, do i just cut a little off the tension rod/s?

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as for the depth, it 10". and i was looking at single-point lugs, to avoid drilling more holes, as it's a vintage shell. but, like i said, i was worrying about the tension rods hitting each other when i tighten them down (i read of this happening.) if it does, do i just cut a little off the tension rod/s?

 

 

That's what I'd do, but I'm not sure if that would have an affect on the rod itself or not, depends on how you cut it, I suppose

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this is what i was thinking of getting (but the double end version. they don't have the DE version pic available, for some reason, IDK.) it just didn't look like it had much room to play, inside, but i can't be the only one with this question/problem. adding the question of flexibility of tuning, you'd think there would be limits.

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I don't see any problem with cutting a tension rod, as long as you still have enough thread engagement.

 

Before you cut the rod, thread a nut onto it (it's 10-24 size). Then file a bevel onto the edge of it. When you take the nut off the rod, it will help fix the threads so that it will work properly.

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I don't see any problem with cutting a tension rod, as long as you still have enough thread engagement.


Before you cut the rod, thread a nut onto it (it's 10-24 size). Then file a bevel onto the edge of it. When you take the nut off the rod, it will help fix the threads so that it will work properly.

 

 

gotcha, thx!

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shut up, or mowtown1 will step in.


as for the depth, it 10". and i was looking at single-point lugs, to avoid drilling more holes, as it's a vintage shell. but, like i said, i was worrying about the tension rods hitting each other when i tighten them down (i read of this happening.) if it does, do i just cut a little off the tension rod/s?

 

:eek:

 

Ok I get it. No room for error. If it's that critical or you use high batter tension, allow for a deeper insert on the batter side.

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The problem with cutting the rods is you have to do either 18 or 20 of them. Just find out the overall length of the lug including the inserts. Subtract that from the shell depth and the overlap of the 2 hoops with the heads on and you have a general idea of what size lugs you need. This doesn't need to be a science project (unless you want it to be). Rods are inexpensive, if you order the wrong size, just return them or get more.

 

I understand your being cautious about this, but don't worry, it's gonna work.

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