How much ReRanch clear coat to do a maple neck and fingerboard?

[rusholmeruffian]

I don't want to invest into a sprayer quite yet and I'm going to be moving into a house with a garage next month, so I can do nitrocellulose. This makes ReRanch clearcoat viable for a neck I want to put on a guitar.

 

If I get just one can of the satin clear coat, will I have enough to do two coats on the neck and fingerboard and one coat on a Strat-sized body?

[panther_king]

Well, my answer would be none...

 

Wipe some Birchwood-Casey Tru-oil on with a paper towel and let it sit for 5 mins or so; wipe it off and then rub some of their gunstock wax on it.

 

Leave it as naked as possible, imo.

[rusholmeruffian]

Well, my answer would be none... Wipe some Birchwood-Casey Tru-oil on with a paper towel and let it sit for 5 mins or so; wipe it off and then rub some of their gunstock wax on it. Leave it as naked as possible, imo.

 

Notice our relative locations: it's just a pinch more humid here than where you are.

 

Even the guy who built the bass with which I'll be buried, and does amazing oil-and-wax finishes, thinks that maple fingerboards should have a lacquer finish.

[FrooShonTay]

One can should be enough. I did several coats on a strat neck and still had maybe half a can left.

[Orange Jackson]

I say none as well.

 

I would use Tru oil (gunstock oil). 2 to 3 coats, no wax. You just wipe it on with an old t shirt and about two hours later you can lightly sand and recoat. It drys to a hard finish and will protect the neck from twisting. It also feels and looks great.

 

Nitro is sticky, and I for sure would not want that on a neck.

I've used Reranch nitro on a body before. If you did get it, there would be plenty for a neck, but again, I wouldn't.

[Reverse Entropy]

I used one can for a neck (masked off the pau ferro fingerboard).

 

You can make a 'spray booth' by hanging a clear tarp from the tracks for the roll-up door. I used high-tech coathangers, wire and duct tape. A big piece of cardboard for the floor, and more hangers and wire to dangle the neck in the 'booth'.

 

It actually took me two weekends of spraying LIGHT coats and then wetsanding until smooth. There is a LOT of wetsanding to do. LOTS of sanding as you grind down the little speckles s-l-o-w-l-y until the finest papers suddenly turn it cloudy and then polish it clear suddenly again.

 

It's NOT sticky, either. I live where it's humid as hell, and it's fine. Be sure you spray on a day without a lot of blowing dust or high humidity. Get a cheap 3M "respirator" mask from Home Depot, it will have the filters for organic vapors, and that's what you need - about $20 well spent.

[outtahear]

Or, get a can of gloss DEFT @ Lowes.

Clear nitro as well. (And humidity's a bigger bitch w/Nitro than TruOil.)

[Orange Jackson]

Hmm, maybe the nitro I've used is special or something, but it always has a sticky feel to it when it is all said and done.

[mutant_guitar]

tru oil is water proof, and quite durable. It was originally used as a gun stock finish, and if you've never been hunting, the environment can be pretty harsh.

 

also, if you are worried about humidity, you should know spraying lacquer is a bad idea in humidity, as it can cause blushing.

 

if you plan on using satin lacquer, I suggest you just use tru oil instead. A satin TO finish is super easy. All you need is a bottle of TO and some steel wool. TO, along with reranch nitro, yellows as it ages. You also don't have to worry the humidity when applying TO, unlike spraying nitro.

 

as far a doing a body, you'll need alot more than 1 coat to do the job. It is pretty common to hear people say they use 2 full cans. I used 3 full cans on my last guitar because I was worried about sanding through the clear during the final wet sanding period.

[Reverse Entropy]

Hmm, maybe the nitro I've used is special or something, but it always has a sticky feel to it when it is all said and done.

 

Well, I only leave it super-glossy sanded on the peghead. After letting the last coat cure for a week I sand back over it lightly with wet #1200 paper and broke the gloss. It's not exactly satin, but it's not shiny either, and it doesn't grab like a pure glossy neck does. I suppose the micro scratches from the #1200 actually reduce the area touching your palm print by quite a bit.

 

Now in 100% humidity when it rains, everything is tacky and this is no exception. Those days even your car's steering wheel is gummy and there's not much you can do about it.

[robertkoa]

" Re Ranch " Also great on salads.

[cratz2]

I just did a body in Reranch Coral and the tinted clear. I used most of the can of Coral and probably a bit over half of the clear. I absolutely think you could do a neck out of one can.

 

I will say that I have two necks with oil finishes... one that is Tru Oil that is my absolute favorite neck (and is on the Coral strat) and one in raw linseed oil. And I refinished a body in Tru Oil. I have every confidence that the Tru Oil will protect something like a guitar as well as a few coats of nitro.