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Just can't intonate...


shades990

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I need some help finding a part, I've been reading about this for hours now. I'm looking for a replacement bridge for an Ibanez AS93 that is deeper (from headstock to tailpiece-wise) so I can intonate my low E string.

 

Thing is, when I was tuned to E standard, it intonated perfectly with just a bit left for the saddle to move. Now, in D standard, the low D can not get flat enough. It's just a little too sharp.

 

I thought a Wilkinson roller bridge or something might let it extend far enough, but I don't think I want rollers after all. Any ides or suggestions? The Gotoh 1511 is the same thing as what is already on this guitar... :confused:

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Hmm, I suppose I could try 11's (which I tried before when I played in E.) It might give it that slight push down that I need. It's really not a huge difference but I would like it to be 'on'.

 

Thanks for that DaleH, I'll pick up 11's when the Tusq Black XL nut I ordered comes in here in a couple days! The Artcore nut is bleh!

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Hmmm... I was going to suggest a Nashville bridge but it looks like yours already has those dimensions.
Do the saddles all face the same way? Sometimes I've had to reverse a saddle on the screw so the ramp is the other way, placing it's peak (where the string goes over it) at the end of the bridge slot.
I have an old Aria with one of these on, maybe something like that would do it?

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Sometimes a set of strings will have a dud in it that just can't be intonated properly (In 30 years of playing it has only happened to me about 4 times, but it does happen). If you haven't done so allready, try changing the string.

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Sometimes a set of strings will have a dud in it that just can't be intonated properly (In 30 years of playing it has only happened to me about 4 times, but it
does
happen). If you haven't done so already, try changing the string.

This is true. Don't adjust anything. Just put a new set of your favorite strings on the guitar and see if that helps.

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This is true. Don't adjust anything. Just put a new set of your favorite strings on the guitar and see if that helps.

 

 

I do a setup every time I replace the strings and check the intonation, and the low D has always been slightly sharp. The saddle is facing correctly and everything, if only it just had probably a couple more mm to move away from the neck... I was just ordering a nut last night and thought I might as well inspect and do some other things to my guitar.

 

Also, I've found the neck relief does not seem to affect the intonation either (if it does, very microscopic.) A short while ago I gave it some more relief and had the issue still, and then last night I was inspecting it again and set the relief to about 0.4mm (the manual says between 0.3mm and 0.5mm, and this is where I've typically had it) and also re-did the bridge height to as low as I could get it without buzzing anywhere, and I didn't have to adjust the saddle pieces during any of this.

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Even if you get the intonation perfect at the 12th fret on the low E, the intonation will be out somewhere else on the neck. Intonation is a compromise on a guitar. Even if you have a Buzz Feiten system, an Earvana nut, or those wacky crooked looking frets that are on Steve Vai's guitar, they are all a compromise that improves intonation in certain keys and with some chords at the expense of others.

 

Changes in relief DO affect intonation because they also change the height of the strings and the scale length (slightly). Frets are placed based upon a flat neck measurement, so setting the relief slight usually helps with more accurate intonation. More relief causes more bow and actually shortening the neck length ever so slightly. It's generally harder to get accurate intonation everywhere on the neck when a guitar has a LOT of relief.

 

The low E string issue with intonation is very common especially when the action is set high. I don't know your guitar but here are some tricks to getting a tiny bit of extra length out of that low E string scale. As has been mentioned, on a Gibson style bridge, putting the low E saddle in backward. On some guitars, you may even be able to attach the saddle slightly behind the bridge...although it's likely to be too far in most instances. On a Strat type trem, you can remove the low E spring and place it between the screw and the back of the bridge. On my Strat, I even added a washer on top of the spring to help get the screw shaft out of the way of the low E string hole... This helps when restringing the guitar.

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do your ears tell you its sharp? or your tuner? sometimes theres just nothing you can do about it. I have an SG where the 'G' string is impossible to intonate, its always a little sharp no matter what. But you can only HEAR it if I'm playing a chord past the 12th fret which is as rare as an earth quake in wisconsin.

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do your ears tell you its sharp? or your tuner? sometimes theres just nothing you can do about it. I have an SG where the 'G' string is impossible to intonate, its always a little sharp no matter what. But you can only HEAR it if I'm playing a chord past the 12th fret which is as rare as an earth quake in wisconsin.



You hit it on the head here... it sounds fine enough to my ears. I've already decided to move on and focus on getting a SD Jazz neck pup installed. :cool:

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One more thing to take into consideration is the action. I've had a guitar where the nut slot was too shallow and when I would fret it would pull the string sharp even with the saddle all the way back and turned around. I lowered the slots (all of them were conservative) and it came right in.

 

Going with heavier gauge strings may cause it to ride higher in the slots.

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