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another new build thread, help me i'm outta control !!!


GuitarNoobie

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started with this:

dcam2871ga2.jpg

plan on making this:

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first 30 mins progress.... my new orbital sander kicks ass !!!

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had to run to store for paint, i ain't done working tonight... thumb.gif

plan on a couple coats of white, then tape off for the red... i'll get the black stripes after that tongue.gif

i didn't get into the wood or past the sanding sealer, so all is good... let's slap the white paint on this bitch !!! eek.gif

tomorrow i better hit home depot for blue painters tape thumb.gif

P.S. this guitar had some knicks, and gauges in it... i'm leaving them, although they will get hit with paint, might scuff em up later... this is gonna be an easy build. don't have to worry about perfection... cool.gif

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ok, yep, i am installing the dead single coil... i already have a red pup cover, who has a dead single coil, i'll take it... i have a single coil i can put in there and i plan on it (but it works eek.gif).

i am also installing the switch stuck in the middle pup position...

we will see how it goes.... just having fun !!!

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Quote Originally Posted by alley trash View Post
Too bad there wasn't a universal bar code for "NECK PICKUP" then you could just put that in there.

It would kind of match the striped paint job pretty good too.
believe it or not, my red paint (duplicolor is what i went with this time...) should match pretty close !!!

and thanks for the tips on the light coats of red to prevent any problems when pulling off the tape... advice taken !!! thumb.gif

it's all good so far !!!
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Quote Originally Posted by ak47dragunov View Post
which floyd rose will you use
i've decided against the floyd rose as that will take some routing (i don't have one, but was looking at them today)... a router is my next purchase for sure.... my goal is to build from scratch eventually, well maybe not the neck, but someday... i working with hand tools and hand power tools facepalm.gif

doing the best i can....thumb.gif
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Hey noobie, Im in the process of refinishing my bass players Peavey bass that some goofball just ladled with 40 lbs of paint, so thick that I ended up taking right down to the wood on the edges, I feathered out the front and back pretty well leaving the base coat intact with the intention of spraying the whole thing with sanding sealer again, then spraying with acrylic lacquer. Do you think this is a good plan or should I take every bit of paint off and start fresh? Keep in mind that the job that was on it was sooooo unbelieveably bad that I cant even begin to describe it. He put soo much paint on there, then drizzled another color on top and then used a small compressor to blow it around in patterns, but there were huge globs dripping down every side of the thing. So, I would like to get a nice factory type finish on it, but its not an Alembic or anything, know what I mean?

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Quote Originally Posted by mikew View Post
Awwww man..........I thought I was your biggest fan rolleyes.gif



He he just kidding! Keep it up man.......it's like watching Lost, the suspense is killing me! facepalm.giftongue.gif
ok, you're right, i got two best fans...

and alley trash, that guy is amazing... been giving me tips and advice along the way and i really appreciate it !!! thumb.gif not to mention all the other projects that dude has going on this forum... when does he sleep ??? freak.gif

don't let the suspense kill ya..., but i am done for the night...

got band rehearsal tomorrow night, so no progress on the guitar tomorrow, but i should be applying some red paint by Weds night for sure... maybe thurs... i want to spend some time on the stripes to get them close.... much tape time coming up, but at least it's on the couch in the AC !!! thumb.gif
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Quote Originally Posted by almightycrunch View Post
Hey noobie, Im in the process of refinishing my bass players Peavey bass that some goofball just ladled with 40 lbs of paint, so thick that I ended up taking right down to the wood on the edges, I feathered out the front and back pretty well leaving the base coat intact with the intention of spraying the whole thing with sanding sealer again, then spraying with acrylic lacquer. Do you think this is a good plan or should I take every bit of paint off and start fresh? Keep in mind that the job that was on it was sooooo unbelieveably bad that I cant even begin to describe it. He put soo much paint on there, then drizzled another color on top and then used a small compressor to blow it around in patterns, but there were huge globs dripping down every side of the thing. So, I would like to get a nice factory type finish on it, but its not an Alembic or anything, know what I mean?
hey maybe alley trash will climb in here and give you some advice, but if the paint is so thick that's it causing issues, i might sand it down to bare wood.

as alley and i have discussed and what i have run into, is the edges and rounded parts of the body hold the least paint and thus easier to sand through cry.gif

most builds i have done go down to bare wood, the reason why i am not doing that with this one;
it's a damn rough (not perfect) finish to start with... i figure a few imperfections on this one just blend in with the replica i am trying to create... plus this guitar had some dinks and chips to start and i think it adds to the whole replica thing....

this one is gonna be easier to finish off, because a few imperfections are natural on this one... most of the time, i am cussing, drinking, cussing some more, resanding, restarting, etc... most of the time i want it perfect, in this case, no so much !!! GOOD LUCK !!!

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Cool! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

As far as the Floyd goes, you won't need a router, the trem on the original Frankenstrat was flush mounted. All you'll need to do is plug the Strat trem mounting holes and drill for the Floyd studs. Might as well go all the way brother!!! And don't forget the rusty, non working pickup switch in the middle cavity!poke.gif

Keep up the good work!thumb.gif

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Well, like I said, I took off all the thick horrible paint, which required leaving all the contoured edges bare wood, The original paint is basically left intact on the front and back, but feathered out to approximately 1/2 inch from the edges all the way around, the centers are still intact factory paint. But I planned on spraying the entire thing over again with sealer primer before laying on color coat. Obviously this thing was poly to begin with, but it was very easy to sand through, and very thin finish???? If it was poly, do you think I'd still be able to apply a lacquer sealer/primer and acrylic lacquer color coat and clear over whats left of the factory finish?

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Well, like I said, I took off all the thick horrible paint, which required leaving all the contoured edges bare wood, The original paint is basically left intact on the front and back, but feathered out to approximately 1/2 inch from the edges all the way around, the centers are still intact factory paint. But I planned on spraying the entire thing over again with sealer primer before laying on color coat. Obviously this thing was poly to begin with, but it was very easy to sand through, and very thin finish???? If it was poly, do you think I'd still be able to apply a lacquer sealer/primer and acrylic lacquer color coat and clear over whats left of the factory finish?

 

i have learned and been warned recently to use the same brand paint and clear coat...

 

however, with that said, i don't think you will hurt yourself spraying clear as long as it bonds...

 

i can't answer the laquer vs poly, but it doesn't sound good considering what i have been told... may some others will join the conversation, alley ??? :lol:

 

however, what's the worst case scenario... it doesn't work and you start over... it's never too late to start over !!! :thu:

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Cool! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.


As far as the Floyd goes, you won't need a router, the trem on the original Frankenstrat was flush mounted. All you'll need to do is plug the Strat trem mounting holes and drill for the Floyd studs. Might as well go all the way brother!!! And don't forget the rusty, non working pickup switch in the middle cavity!:poke:


Keep up the good work!
:thu:

 

if i can find that flush mounted rose i am all over it...

 

what about his one ???

http://store.guitarfetish.com/flroflotrsy.html

 

if that is flush mounted i'm all over it...

 

this guitar came with rusty screws and a rusty switch, can beat that at all !!! :D ok, well on a second look the switch ain't so rusty, but i can fix that LOL !!!

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The humbucker for your other one hasn't gone to post yet, so I'll drop a nut in there for you too.:thu:

 

For the other guys question: Yes, you can put lacquer over poly BUT (and it's a big buttt)

 

Not just directly over it. In other words, the lacq does not bond to the poly. So you need to prep properly. You already did the first step... sanding it back, etc.

 

If you use for example, a water based or oil stain, you can still lacquer over that if you use the right sealer. So in your case, as long as all the gloss is gone & you've got plenty of sanding scratches in the exisiting poly for the lacquer sealer to have something to "grab" you should be fine. But once you put the lacquer sealer on there, you will need to stay with the lacquer the rest of the way out. There's no turning back 1/2 way & deciding to put a poly clear over a lacquer base color (or vise versa)

 

I think you kind of answered your own question at one point in one of your posts when you mentioned the sealer coat. And that is the key part. What ever the solvent is that's in your sealer, is what you want to stay with as a chemical base the rest of the way out to finish.

 

Hope that helped/made sense.

 

 

...now back to the kramer show!

:snax:

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