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K, let's talk bearing edges...


cdawg

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so, "experts," what kind of things can cutting new edges do for a drum, new or used? what considerations should be taken?

 

c.e. brought it up in another post and it peaked my interest. any kind of detail would be appreciated. or, is it some kind of can of worms that should be left alone?

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Bearing edges have a big effect on the sound of a shell -- specifically, the kind of attack you get. Sharp edges produce more attack. Vintage drums typically have a bit flatter and rounder edge, and that's a big reason they have the vintage sound. Warmer, mellower, less attack. If the shell is already a project, you can have whatever edges you want cut on it (by a pro! please!) but beware turning a vintage shell into a modern sharp-edged drum, it probably won't sound like what you wanted from your "vintage project."

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sharper=brighter, more attack and generally more resonance.

rounded=mellower, less attack and slightly less resonance.

45 roundover edge=good mix of boh worlds and great for toms

total roundover edge=good for BD

double 45 edge=nice sharp attack, good for snares unless you want a warm fat snare sound then go with the 45 roundover

 

just general thoughts about edges that I had picked up while buildng my custom set.

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ok, how about changing the "tone" of a drum? there was discussion of shallow drums and the affect of bearing edges...

 

 

A shallow won't have the projection of a power (deep) drum (think marching snare).

A shallow drum will have less decay compared to a deeper drum, but will have more attack. Think of a piccolo snare compared to a snare that is 6.5 inches deep.

The overall pitch will be the same between two drums of the same size (diameter), head type, bearing edge profile, and tuning, regardless of their depths.

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I'm no expert cdawg, but the standard 45 would make sense to me. But Dan says a 60 allows for more resonance, and that kinda makes sense too. Obviously tuning will have a huge impact either way. I would think a 60 degree would be warmer/mellower

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Theory:

Sharper would give a shorter 'good' tone window.

 

Sharpness = (supposedly) clarity and brightness

Mylar = low tonal durability

Bright tone would be only at the beginning of a head's lifespan and the first to go.

 

Also sharper makes a better mylar cutting interface.

Quicker wear IOW

 

 

?

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Go with a 30 degree roundover. IMO, 45's have more RING. Ring and resonance are two different things. A full roundover 30 won't sustain as long, but what sustain it does have is PURE TONE!

 

I, personally, find these generic 45's that come on most drums these days to be lacking in all mojo. To clean and ringy. I don't like hearing plastic attack ring out forever. There's a reason that studio and session guys still use vintage gear, those 30's are magic. Hell, Steve Jordan can have every Yamaha drum for free, he still goes back to vintage Rogers and Ludwig frequently. For a good reason too.

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Go with a 30 degree roundover. IMO, 45's have more RING. Ring and resonance are two different things. A full roundover 30 won't sustain as long, but what sustain it does have is PURE TONE!


I, personally, find these generic 45's that come on most drums these days to be lacking in all mojo. To clean and ringy. I don't like hearing plastic attack ring out forever. There's a reason that studio and session guys still use vintage gear, those 30's are magic. Hell, Steve Jordan can have every Yamaha drum for free, he still goes back to vintage Rogers and Ludwig frequently. For a good reason too.

 

all you dumb bastards ramble on for days, and the kid gets it right out of the gate!! jk

 

that makes sense, mary. thanks or the input, all. this is what i was looking for. everyone throwing in. this is something that just needed to be ironed out, in my head.:wave:

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