Members TCEDDIA Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 What are the major differences between the two models? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bholder Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Captain Fathead Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 I'm actually curious too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DevilRaysFan Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 There are a bunch of differences in the cosmetics (binding options, inlay options, etc) but the main difference is the 4003 has a standard output jack whereas the 4001 can be set up for the Ric-O-Sound Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Captain Fathead Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 There are a bunch of differences in the cosmetics (binding options, inlay options, etc) but the main difference is the 4003 has a standard output jack whereas the 4001 can be set up for the Ric-O-Sound I'm pretty sure the 4003 has the ric-o-sound jack too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members lug Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 Though both have dual trussrod's, 4003's have a beefier trussrod system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 50calexplorer Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 The main difference is the upgraded truss rod system. Both have the Ric-O-Sound jacks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members johnnybassman Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 This is from John Hall, CEO of Rickenbacker: "The string tension of a round wound string, especially a nearly pure iron string like those in the Roto Sound class, is almost 100 lbs. greater than a typical flat wound string. The 4001 neck was designed in 1956 for the only type of strings available then . . . flat wound . . . and since the design favored a slim neck, the neck strength was right on the edge of the envelope. Round wound strings took many of these instruments beyond their rated capability for string tension, resulting in various problems. But of course there are many types of strings, not to mention that every piece of wood is different, so plenty of 4001's have been used with round wound strings for decades with no ill effect. The best advice on these older basses is to use the light tension string you can stand. The 4003 has a completely different truss rod design and can handle any type of string you prefer. Fretwire has nothing to do with any of this, as we've always used the hardest alloy available. But it is true that a round wound string will tend to wear down any bass's frets faster." I can attest to this. I had a '72 4001 strung up with GHS bass boomers. The neck laminates separated down near the body end of the neck. Had it repaired twice before I gave up and sold it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Captain Fathead Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 Awesome info... Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DevilRaysFan Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 The main difference is the upgraded truss rod system. Both have the Ric-O-Sound jacks. Meh-- What do I know? Rics suck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Captain Fathead Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 Yeah? well, um, YOU HAVE A FUNNY HAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bholder Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 Yeah? well, um, YOU HAVE A FUNNY HAT Hehehe... and a unitard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members TCEDDIA Posted February 20, 2007 Author Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 Is it safe to buy a 4003 from Musician's Friend, etc, sight unseen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Rowka Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 Hehehe... and a unitard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members s4001 Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 Says the guy in the blue wrestling thong.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members coyote-1 Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 They are brand-new and under warranty. If I had $1400 laying around looking to be spent, I could think of worse ways to do it. Is it safe to buy a 4003 from Musician's Friend, etc, sight unseen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 72Rick Posted February 20, 2007 Members Share Posted February 20, 2007 Where's Banta when the Rick 4003 needs him? Hey, I've had my '72 Rick 4001 since 1982 and have had Roto-Sound Round Wounds almost exclusively on it and have no neck delam or any other issues aside from the fact that it "Rocks Like A Hurricane"! Miss-use and miss-understanding of proper Truss-Rod adjustment technique required on 4001's is what results in Fingerboard separation. I'd have to say that I'm extremely fortunate that my Rick's neck is rock solid and straight as an Arrow, cuz I've never adjusted it more than a half a turn one way or the other, max, when I even feel the need, which seems to be quite rare. I don't even think I'd herd of the "Right Way" to adjust them until just within the last few years. 4003's are deadly cool, but I would never hesitate to grab another 4001. There are things to look for, as far as condition, but they can take a beating and keep on ticking just as good as any beater P-Bass. "4001's are not {censored} Basses and are not for {censored}'s"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RIC N BACKER Posted February 21, 2007 Members Share Posted February 21, 2007 Is it safe to buy a 4003 from Musician's Friend, etc, sight unseen? yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RIC N BACKER Posted February 21, 2007 Members Share Posted February 21, 2007 2. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DevilRaysFan Posted February 21, 2007 Members Share Posted February 21, 2007 Says the guy in the blue wrestling thong.... You're staring at my package, aren't you?....Admit it!.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members johnnybassman Posted February 21, 2007 Members Share Posted February 21, 2007 Where's Banta when the Rick 4003 needs him? Hey, I've had my '72 Rick 4001 since 1982 and have had Roto-Sound Round Wounds almost exclusively on it and have no neck delam or any other issues aside from the fact that it "Rocks Like A Hurricane"! Miss-use and miss-understanding of proper Truss-Rod adjustment technique required on 4001's is what results in Fingerboard separation. I'd have to say that I'm extremely fortunate that my Rick's neck is rock solid and straight as an Arrow, cuz I've never adjusted it more than a half a turn one way or the other, max, when I even feel the need, which seems to be quite rare. I don't even think I'd herd of the "Right Way" to adjust them until just within the last few years. 4003's are deadly cool, but I would never hesitate to grab another 4001. There are things to look for, as far as condition, but they can take a beating and keep on ticking just as good as any beater P-Bass. "4001's are not {censored} Basses and are not for {censored}'s"! True, but the type of string you use, and previous usage are a factor. I took very good care of my 4001. I knew better then to make any adjustments myself, so I took it to a local pro who's worked on all of my basses in the past. But, I purchased the bass used in 1990, and it was well used at that. I owned it for 7 years before it started coming apart. I think the combination of the strings I was using (GHS bass boomers) and the wear and tear that it received before it came into my posession contributed to it's demise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 72Rick Posted February 21, 2007 Members Share Posted February 21, 2007 True, but the type of string you use, and previous usage are a factor. I took very good care of my 4001. I knew better then to make any adjustments myself, so I took it to a local pro who's worked on all of my basses in the past. But, I purchased the bass used in 1990, and it was well used at that. I owned it for 7 years before it started coming apart. I think the combination of the strings I was using (GHS bass boomers) and the wear and tear that it received before it came into my posession contributed to it's demise. Hey johnny, What I said was not ment to be pointed at you, but to all who've had misfortunes with 4001's. Your story is not uncommon. At least two of the three '74 4001's I've owned had cracked laquer at the headstock, showing that the fretboard had been seriously stressed at that end at least. So, I do agree with what you're saying. My actual point is that this is something that's being done to these basses, not something that these basses do! Pro or novice, if you try too hard to make this uniquely designed truss-rod system (it's very different from any standard truss-rod, dual or not) funtion like any other standard truss-rod; Fender, Gibson, or whatever, you can end up tightening them past the stress limit the neck/fretboard can take. Standard truss-rods are designed to move the neck, either bowing (adding relief) or straightening (removing relief) the neck. With the old style 4001 truss-rod ( no-one ever bothered to say this) you're supposed to loosen the truss-rods, then physically bend then neck by either pushing from the fretboard side to add relief, or from the back of the neck to remove relief and then re-tighten the truss-rods, re-tune the strings and see where your actions at. That is information that I did not get when I was trained, in 1982, on how to perform setups for all Guitars and Basses. What I was trained to do though was to pay very strict attention to what the neck was doing and how much force I was using on the truss-rods. If it takes allot of force, somethings wrong. In these cases I was trained to push down on the middle of the neck to help it move into position, but not like what I discribed above for Ricks specifically. 4001 basses are exceptionally well built instruments. One thing that I've "never herd" anyone say when talking about the manufacturing or design differences between the 4001 and the 4003 is that Rickenbacker ever changed their approach to attaching the fretboard to the neck. So, I don't think 4001 fretboard/neck laminates are inherently weak. I think they need a little different approach in care and maintenance. For me, that's going to continue to be the use of Roto-Sound Billy Sheehan bass strings (110-43). My open string action is; 3/32-12th fret and 1/8th-last fret. This happens to be identical to my Alembic. I measured my action for a response to a flatwound string for '72 Ricks conversation on rickresource. When it all boiled down the guys over there who replied said it was a matter of preference. Which is really my point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bbl Posted February 22, 2007 Members Share Posted February 22, 2007 If you had $1400 to spend, would you rather buy a new 4003 or a mid-70's 4001? Why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members s4001 Posted February 22, 2007 Members Share Posted February 22, 2007 If you had $1400 to spend, would you rather buy a new 4003 or a mid-70's 4001? Why? I'd buy the 4003. I'm more partial to the tone of them than the 70's 4001 basses. Both are solid choices and are up to preference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JacieFB Posted February 22, 2007 Members Share Posted February 22, 2007 If you had $1400 to spend, would you rather buy a new 4003 or a mid-70's 4001? Why? Seems like for a lot of the reasons listed in this thread and in several previous threads, it might be best to not take a chance on buying someone else's truss rod mistake. Then again, there is the "put it in your hands and play it" factor. If you have the ability to try it out and inspect it, then by all means get whichever one speaks to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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