Members Zeromus-X Posted May 23, 2009 Members Share Posted May 23, 2009 We're playing a much smaller place tonight, and I'll make sure we get a couple pictures from there, too. Another real benefit of switching out the rig to these is that the pieces of truss are now movable by one person. The truss you see in the picture consists of three 2m sections; we used to put one up, then someone had to hold it (or prop it up against something), two people would get the second piece, prop those up, two people would get the third piece, and finally everything was bolted together. With these, each person grabs one piece, we set it on the ground, snap them together, and lift the whole thing right up onto the stand in one shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rxnet Posted May 23, 2009 Members Share Posted May 23, 2009 I'd like to see some amber stage shots with peeps on board if possible..thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BillESC Posted May 23, 2009 Author Members Share Posted May 23, 2009 Lookin' good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members StormChronicles Posted May 23, 2009 Members Share Posted May 23, 2009 We're picking up a few of them today, and we'll be able to post "real" gig pictures with them this weekend. As an added bonus, both gigs this weekend are places we've previously played with our full light rig, so we can post some comparison shots. Damn sure wish there was an absolute standard for lighting values. This thing is bright...really bright from what one can see in the pics and videos. The main page on this bar says that it's out put is 4100 lux at 2 meters. http://www.shopesc.com/flower-420b-420.html 1 lux = 1 lumen/sq meter...Dude that's freakin BRIGHT. And this one is 4100 Lux at TWO meters from the source? Full daylight is roughly 12,000 Lux so this thing is about 1/3rd full daylight almost seven feet from the bar. A Par 56/300Watt is 2200 Lumens...so this device is much brighter by probably more than twice based on the assumption they're talking about lumens AT THE SOURCE? (I don't claim to be a physicist so I could be reading this wrong) But based on the pics alone...it's a bright mutha. And I'm hopin TheOriginalFuzz does get a few since I'm his guitarist!!! lol Given the choice of carting around, hanging, and waiting for the duty cycle on Par 56 or 64 lamps (can't take em right down after the show..gotta let em sit)...and setting up two or three of these...well, there's no contest. these things are a gift of the light gods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted May 23, 2009 Members Share Posted May 23, 2009 I'd like to see some amber stage shots with peeps on board if possible..thanks No problem. I'll get Z-x to model for you tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted May 24, 2009 Members Share Posted May 24, 2009 Here's a shot from last night. This is the economy setup, just two 420Bs across the front. I need to figure out how to get better pictures with the camera so that I can capture good picture with no flash, but somehow prevent the light from washing everything out. Had we thought about it a little more, we would have set up a little farther back, but we were in a bit of a hurry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted May 24, 2009 Members Share Posted May 24, 2009 And another: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BillESC Posted May 24, 2009 Author Members Share Posted May 24, 2009 That really shows what pixel control can do for you. Nice one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members StormChronicles Posted May 24, 2009 Members Share Posted May 24, 2009 Hmm...well, depending on placement...it seems that the "side wash" angle isn't very high though the stage wash is very good. Likin the Stage right purple, stage left amber thing. Where exactly did you have them across the front of the stage? Any thoughts on one at each corner, Stage Front...OR....if possible...three of them out front? One left, one right, and the one center angled a bit higher to insure drum riser involvement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted May 24, 2009 Members Share Posted May 24, 2009 The lights were on the truss approximately 8 1/2 feet up in the air. They are mounted horizontally on the truss and aimed down at about 45 degrees. If you look at the mixer to the drummer's right and the cabinets and wall behind the stage, you can see that we didn't have the lights properly positioned. Had we set up about two feet farther back or moved the truss two feet forward, it would have looked much better. Our full rig has three of them out front with the two on the sides moved closer toward the center. I think that you could utilize two of them on the sides, angled in to create a great looking stage. You could even mount them vertically on the PA speaker poles and probably get great results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BillESC Posted May 24, 2009 Author Members Share Posted May 24, 2009 The fixtures output is 45 degrees which means you'll get one foot of spread for each foot of distance.Here's a shot straight on about 15' from the canvas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members patman0322 Posted May 25, 2009 Members Share Posted May 25, 2009 Here's a shot from last night. This is the economy setup, just two 420Bs across the front. I need to figure out how to get better pictures with the camera so that I can capture good picture with no flash, but somehow prevent the light from washing everything out. Had we thought about it a little more, we would have set up a little farther back, but we were in a bit of a hurry. Haha, what's with the kitchen cabinets? Those are pretty good shots under those lighting conditions. You've already got the right kind of camera for the job - an SLR. Looking at the EXIF info for those pictures, I'd crank up the ISO sensitivity to 1600 which will buy you some more shutter - speed 1/40 of a second at ISO 1600 for that same shot vs the 1/10 sec @ ISO 400 that it was taken at. Don't worry about graininess and all that stuff people worry about at high ISOs, getting a sharp shot is more important and you need all the shutter speed you can get and any DSLR can take perfectly usable shots at ISO 1600.Also, the little bit of zooming in you did on the second shot cost you a little bit of shutter speed as the lens's aperture gets smaller as you zoom in. Shoot at the widest setting for the maximum aperture and thus the highest possible shutter speed for a given shot - move closer instead if you need to zoom.Lastly, unless you want to expose manually, the action mode is probably not a bad mode to shoot in since it tries to maximize shutter speed anyway. You might try different metering modes though and see if you like the results better. You might try setting it to spot metering or center-weighted and when you shoot, point the AF sensor at one of the faces so it'll try and expose for the face properly, then lock it and recompose and shoot. Also, if shots are coming out too dark or too light, play with the exposure compensation and try again.Oh, and you can turn any picture settings or whatever they call them on Canons all the way down - like contrast and saturation - there'll be plenty of contrast and saturation in what you're shooting without the camera wasting precious bits creating more.Very lastly, don't worry too much about stuff getting blown out and stuff disappearing into the dark, there's no way of getting around that when you're shooting stuff in the dark lit up by really bright lights - just get the faces (or whatever your subject is) right and let everything else fall where it may.Canon has a 50mm F/1.8 lens for under $100 that would make it even easier to get sharp band shots. It's about 2 stops faster than the zoom lens that comes with the camera so for that first shot, instead of 1/10 sec, F/3.5 @ ISO 400, you could've shot it at 1/160 sec, F/1.8 @ ISO 1600. No problem getting sharp shots at 1/160 of a second. At 50mm, you would have to back up almost twice as far though to get roughly the same shot as you did at 22mm.Anyway, good shots and your lighting looks great - nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted May 25, 2009 Members Share Posted May 25, 2009 Holy crap! Thanks. I got that camera for my wife because she was sure that she wanted to learn about taking pictures. Well, a year later and we should have just picked up a point and shoot because she knows less than I do about the camera. I bought the lens you referenced when I got the camera based on the recommendation of an SLR geek friend. I'll have to print that out and try it at the next gig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members patman0322 Posted May 25, 2009 Members Share Posted May 25, 2009 They great thing about SLRs is they make great point & shoots too... unless you want something small you can slip in your pocket or in a purse Keep the Rebel, but you can pick up a compact P&S that will take great pictures for under $200 these days. An SLR will still kick a P&S's ass up and down the street for shooting action, kids, low light and low light indoor kids action stuff like birthday parties.You can practice shooting around the house - turn off the overheads and turn on a few table lamps and start experimenting. If you've got any pets, they make excellent test subjects since they don't get annoyed if you take 500 pictures in a row of them like wives tend to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted May 25, 2009 Members Share Posted May 25, 2009 Cool, perhaps I'll do that tonight after I put the kid to bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Zeromus-X Posted May 25, 2009 Members Share Posted May 25, 2009 Haha, what's with the kitchen cabinets? No time to set up the rear truss, probably no space since it was in a corner, and no desire since it was a low-dollar gig. What a difference it makes, though, comparing the two pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members patman0322 Posted May 25, 2009 Members Share Posted May 25, 2009 Oh yeah, your backdrops with the cartoon stylized versions of yourself on them look awesome. I love those! Very cool looking stage. I only wish I was shameless enough to steal that idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mastersonics Posted July 5, 2009 Members Share Posted July 5, 2009 Hi Bill Please PM me with pricing and contact info for 2 of these. cheers, Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mastersonics Posted July 6, 2009 Members Share Posted July 6, 2009 You could even mount them vertically on the PA speaker poles and probably get great results. I think that's what we'll do to start things off..... any videos of you guys performing with these lights? thanks, Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members twostone Posted July 6, 2009 Members Share Posted July 6, 2009 Those could be used for blinders nice stage shot. probably have to wear sun glasses using those fixtures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted July 6, 2009 Members Share Posted July 6, 2009 Those could be used for blinders nice stage shot. probably have to wear sun glasses using those fixtures. While they are quite bright, they aren't nearly as blinding as the fixtures with hundreds of 5mm LEDs. If you look directly into a Colorsplash JR, you'd think it was ridiculously bright, but it's no where near as bright as a gelled par 38 that isn't nearly as blinding. With the LED420Bs, it's very similar to being on a stage that is lit with standard par cans, only without the heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mastersonics Posted July 6, 2009 Members Share Posted July 6, 2009 Zeromus-X any video with the 420B LED's in action? would love to see them on video... thanks, Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Zeromus-X Posted July 6, 2009 Members Share Posted July 6, 2009 Sure, here's some videos from Saturday night. I'm at work so I can't go through them, so I'll just post links to them all. I'll go through later and remove any that aren't helpful. Also, there's a video posted earlier in the thread. View from the stage, I aimed the camera up at the lights near the end:aXZa2a1OfE0 mvmq33erfuI WqWbUGYbb8c 7uZOP8XxcNQ fJXlqR1TBtw LNWubYQmetY And my favorite completely unrelated video: DiaJW7dXuFk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted July 6, 2009 Members Share Posted July 6, 2009 In that first video, the par cans along side the LED bars are ADJ P64 LEDs. They were turned off during our set, but they turned them back on when we were finished since we were shutting down our lights. The P64LEDs are very bright, but they do not compare to the LED420Bs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mastersonics Posted July 6, 2009 Members Share Posted July 6, 2009 thanks for the links..... So it will be safe to say that the ADJ PAR64 or the Chauvet PAR 64 are the right fixture to light up the backdrops and do some time strobing as well? I'm looking to light up the backdrop and do the sequenced strobe effect etc... You know I don't want to bore the audience in the first 15 minutes of the show. cheers, Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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