Members 6AM Posted November 18, 2003 Members Share Posted November 18, 2003 I just sold a pair of PA speakers to a guy and he claims the crossovers are blown and wants his money back. Is this even possible? How would they blow? If he's right, I assume they can be fixed... how hard can repairing a passive crossover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tlbonehead Posted November 18, 2003 Members Share Posted November 18, 2003 What speakers are they or what crossovers if you built the cabs yourself. 'Pile,Aged,and a few others know a lot more about this stuff than I do,but it isn't that rare to blow a capacitor. Not sure about resisters(if the crossover has any)but if something is blown,the caps would be the area to check,I would think. What are the symptoms of the cabs that make the buyer suspect the crossover? Evidently,something doesn't sound right or something isn't making any sound. I would think if there was a problem,you would have noticed it before you sold the cabs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 6AM Posted November 18, 2003 Author Members Share Posted November 18, 2003 Originally posted by tlbonehead What speakers are they or what crossovers if you built the cabs yourself. 'Pile,Aged,and a few others know a lot more about this stuff than I do,but it isn't that rare to blow a capacitor. Not sure about resisters(if the crossover has any)but if something is blown,the caps would be the area to check,I would think. What are the symptoms of the cabs that make the buyer suspect the crossover? Evidently,something doesn't sound right or something isn't making any sound. I would think if there was a problem,you would have noticed it before you sold the cabs. I email him and he has yet to get back to me. They are Nady THS 1515 speakers. I actually did replace the caps in both of them. One of the caps blow out a while back (I was told they used the wrong type), so I replaced them all. I haven't had any problems since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members billiam Posted November 18, 2003 Members Share Posted November 18, 2003 A circuit board trace could be burned out from too much juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 6AM Posted November 19, 2003 Author Members Share Posted November 19, 2003 Originally posted by billiam A circuit board trace could be burned out from too much juice. I could always just jumper that with a piece of wire, right? If say the tweeter drivers are blown, I assume those are replaceable, right? Does wattage/impedence matter on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tlbonehead Posted November 19, 2003 Members Share Posted November 19, 2003 Originally posted by 6AM I could always just jumper that with a piece of wire, right? If say the tweeter drivers are blown, I assume those are replaceable, right? Does wattage/impedence matter on that? Didn't you check to make sure they were working well before you sold them? I know I certainly would. Anyway,diaphragms are relaceable on most drivers,but on some of the cheaper models,they end up just replacing the whole horn/driver,or at least the whole driver. I have some Ramsa drivers like that. They are made so that you can easily replace just the diaphragm. Trouble is,Ramsa doesn't offer just the diaphragm as a separate part for some silly reason. You'll have to just check the horn and driver and see if it is a standard 1 3/8" screw-on type or 1" bolt-on mounting. If so,you could replace the driver with a different brand,I guess. But you certainly want to keep the same impedence or you will definitely mess up your crossover frequency. Even with a different model with the same impedence,it still may mess up the crossover frequency,etc,becaude speakers don't have a constant exact impedence at all frequencies and the crossover may have extra components put in specifically to work with that driver's impedence curve. If the driver is blown,I'd check with Nady as a first step. BTW,I've seen some Nady drivers with screw-on mountings with the lens and Nady had glued the threads so that you couldn't separate the driver from the horn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 6AM Posted November 21, 2003 Author Members Share Posted November 21, 2003 Hmmmm... interesting. I though the speakers were working, therefore good. I don't know how to check a tweeter... Anyway... if I am to replace the driver, does it have the same wattage as the woofer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Unalaska Posted November 22, 2003 Members Share Posted November 22, 2003 open up the cab, disconnect the woofer and play some music into the speaker. If you can hear the tweet, great, if not, you screwed. Buy some cheap drivers from madison and unload these cabs quick. Don't sell them to a friend either, cuz they won't be much longer. stay away from nady, stay away from nady. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tlbonehead Posted November 22, 2003 Members Share Posted November 22, 2003 Originally posted by 6AM Hmmmm... interesting. I though the speakers were working, therefore good. I don't know how to check a tweeter... Anyway... if I am to replace the driver, does it have the same wattage as the woofer? You can pull the horn/driver and do the battery test to see if they click. If so,they aren't dead,at least. Just use a small 1 1/2 volt. That is enough power. As for replacing the whole driver,you have to get one with the same way of mounting. As for power handling,a 50-75 watt driver is plenty good to match to a 250-400 watt woofer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 22, 2003 Members Share Posted November 22, 2003 Originally posted by tlbonehead You can pull the horn/driver and do the battery test to see if they click. If so,they aren't dead,at least. Just use a small 1 1/2 volt. That is enough power. As for replacing the whole driver,you have to get one with the same way of mounting. As for power handling,a 50-75 watt driver is plenty good to match to a 250-400 watt woofer. A real 50 - 75 watt driver is going to cost more than the entire monitor. HF drivers are rated so many different ways that ther's no real way to tell what they can really handle unless yo go with a MAJOR manufacturer. Most smaller HF drivers will handle about 20 watts RMS, 50 watts peak. That would make them suitable for systems operating with 500 watts - 750 watts (peak). This is factoring in LF to HF ratio plus efficiency matching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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