Weird message inside an amp....

[moody]

I don't know how to take this.

 

I've been working on changing the XLR speaker connections to speakon on an old ZPE-600 MkII power amplifier (20 odd years old, I think made in New Zealand, but possibly Australia).

 

In doing this I've opened up the bottom of it, written on a plate in texta (Sharpie for Americans) next to the transformer (big hunk of metal) are the words:

 

THIS AMP BUILD QUALITY 6 1/2 / 10!

(That reads six and a half out of 10.)

 

I feel like i've opened somebodys exam results??

 

I've used this thing for ages, it's solid and works flawlessly.

 

On another topic, drilling out speakon sized holes in thick metal - what is the correct tool? Because they are cheap I've been using stone grinding bits on a drill (I think made for wood) and it's working but slowly and using up the bits quickly (3 bits used for two holes) but there has to be a correct way.

 

(for thin metal I'm using a hand nibbler, it just doesn't work for the thicker metal).

[dboomer]

Maybe it's a date code. That's what I'd expect.

 

Use a chassis punch to make holes for speakons ... well how thick is the metal?

[moody]

 

Maybe it's a date code. That's what I'd expect. Use a chassis punch to make holes for speakons ... well how thick is the metal?

 

 

Date's just don't add up to it... unless it hasn't been touched since 1910...

 

The back plate is a good 2.5mm, manual filing wasn't making a dent, I got a 6 pack of grinding shapes and I've gone through three of those (worn away to nothing) doing one amp. I have another identical amp still to go. (I'm glad it's not the front place, that's twice as thick).

 

A chassis punch sounds like something awfully specialised and I don't think anything hand held smaller than bolt cutters could make a dent. Is it something worthwhile if I don't plan to be doing this more than a couple of times?

[otaypanky]

You need a hole saw. Here's an inexpensive set from Sears

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00925240000P?vName=Tools

[moody]

 

You need a hole saw. Here's an inexpensive set from Sears http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00925240000P?vName=Tools

 

 

There is mention of both Australia and new zealand in the original post.

 

i've never seen a sears, and I haven't seen a hole saw that small.

[dboomer]

It is specialized.

 

It's for making f*cking holes for speakons! Isn't that what you asked for?

 

Did you bother to even look up what it is. I think still Google works in Oz.:poke:

[lonotes]

 

It is specialized. It's for making f*cking holes for speakons! Isn't that what you asked for? Did you bother to even look up what it is. I think still Google works in Oz.:poke:

 

 

One word, decaf. :poke:

[Craig Vecchione]

 

The back plate is a good 2.5mm, manual filing wasn't making a dent, I got a 6 pack of grinding shapes and I've gone through three of those (worn away to nothing) doing one amp. I have another identical amp still to go. (I'm glad it's not the front place, that's twice as thick). A chassis punch sounds like something awfully specialised and I don't think anything hand held smaller than bolt cutters could make a dent. Is it something worthwhile if I don't plan to be doing this more than a couple of times?

 

 

That depends how much you're spending in time and money doing it your way, vs doing the job right, and quickly with an expensive tool. And unless you're planning to retire from the business, you'll probably find yourself using these punches again. I've rarely bought a tool and only used it once....and you should see the mess of tools I've got....

 

Greenlee is the company that is probably most known for chassis punch tools. All shapes and sizes for pretty much any connector shape is available. They have a website, and I found the follow distributors in Australia:

 

 

 

Carlton, NSW

 

 

• Specialised Force, 612-9547-1844, fax 612-9547-2236

Northgate, Queensland

 

 

• Specialised Force, 617-256-6011, fax 617-3256-6055

Ringwood, Victoria

 

 

• Specialised Force Pty Ltd, 9761-4199, fax 9761-4966

Willeton, Western Australia

 

 

• Specialised Force Pty Ltd, 618 9354-8544, fax 618-9354-8360

 

 

[agedhorse]

Just get the correct chassis punch and be done with it. Who knows how much damage the grinding dust is doing to your amp and your lungs?

 

A hole saw is an inappropriate tool for the job as well.

[W. M. Hellinger]

You need a hole saw. Here's an inexpensive set from Sears http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00925240000P?vName=Tools

 

That could be a not-so-good recommendation based on the following:

 

I'll assume moody is fixing to use NL4MP jacks for his project. If so, then the OD of that jack body is approx. 0.928" (roughly 15/16"). Although I couldn't find any specifics of the sizes of hole saws included with the recommended Sears kit, a 15/16" hole saw is not paticurally common in entry level sets IME. Furthermore, if using NL4MP jacks, the screw (or rivet) mounting holes are spaced approx. 1.050" apart. If using a 1" hole saw, you'd have less than 0.025" of wiggle room with centering the hole bit without risking compromising the screw holes... and IME, maintaining significantly less than 0.025" tolerances (or even 0.050") with a hole saw is difficult. Furthermore, in sheet metal, it's my experience that hole saws are prone to chattering... which can easily waller out the hole 1/4" or more. Besides all of that, a hole saw can be very difficult to use (accurately) if the application is to enlarge an existing hole that is larger than the hole saw's pilot bit.

 

I suggest that the least expensive, most versitile, reasonably easy to source, and stands a reasonably good chance of producing acceptable results would be the use of a step bit:

 

[krikey]

Ahh, the Uni bit....that should work, provided you own one. If you don't, then head over to Lowe's or Home Depot, or any hardware store in general.... I own the Greenlee version, Klein also makes the same thing for about 10 bucks more....(but it says Klein on it)....Just make sure you drill a small pilot hole. And use some oil, so you don't burn up your new $45 bit. Trust me these things are handy!

[georgestrings]

That could be a not-so-good recommendation based on the following: I'll assume moody is fixing to use NL4MP jacks for his project. If so, then the OD of that jack body is approx. 0.928" (roughly 15/16"). Although I couldn't find any specifics of the sizes of hole saws included with the recommended Sears kit, a 15/16" hole saw is not paticurally common in entry level sets IME. Furthermore, if using NL4MP jacks, the screw (or rivet) mounting holes are spaced approx. 1.050" apart. If using a 1" hole saw, you'd have less than 0.025" of wiggle room with centering the hole bit without risking compromising the screw holes... and IME, maintaining significantly less than 0.025" tolerances (or even 0.050") with a hole saw is difficult. Furthermore, in sheet metal, it's my experience that hole saws are prone to chattering... which can easily waller out the hole 1/4" or more. Besides all of that, a hole saw can be very difficult to use (accurately) if the application is to enlarge an existing hole that is larger than the hole saw's pilot bit. I suggest that the least expensive, most versitile, reasonably easy to source, and stands a reasonably good chance of producing acceptable results would be the use of a step bit:

 

As an electrician who's specialty is control wiring and panel building - if I didn't have the correct sized knock-out, the uni-bit(step drill) is what I would use... I'd use some rags to still insure that no shavings got into anything I didn't want them into...

 

 

 

- georgestrings

[Ray Tremblay]

 

written on a plate in texta (Sharpie for Americans) next to the transformer (big hunk of metal) are the words: THIS AMP BUILD QUALITY 6 1/2 / 10! (That reads six and a half out of 10.)

 

 

If it's not too much of a hassle, take a picture of the writing and post it for us to see.

[moody]

 

Just get the correct chassis punch and be done with it. Who knows how much damage the grinding dust is doing to your amp and your lungs? A hole saw is an inappropriate tool for the job as well.

 

 

I wasn't stupid with it. The whole back panel was detatched and components covered when I drilled it (It's actually an incredibly easy amp to take apart).

[agedhorse]

I was referring to breathing the fine grinding dust, and the small (conductive) particles get into everything.

[Ear Abuser]

I guarantee you'll use the uni-bit again. and again. and again.

[moody]

 

I was referring to breathing the fine grinding dust, and the small (conductive) particles get into everything.

 

 

As to that, I hate to say that I didn't think about the breathing situation at the time (but I won't forget it in future). The only thing I can say in my defence is that I didn't have my face anywhere near the actual grinding (I had goggles on as I have seen that sort of tool break up and fly everywhere before, and I didn't want my face in general anywhere near the action).

[moody]

 

I guarantee you'll use the uni-bit again. and again. and again.

 

 

I'll try to find / get one. It does look like a useful and generic tool that I could get a lot of use out of.

[Dogoth]

If you can make the plate in question portable enough, call around and find an electrical contractor and ask them to punch the holes for you (they should have a greenley punch (probably even a nice hydralic one. I can't imagin them charging you more than a couple of dollars and then you don't have to buy the tools. Just make sure you mark the exact center of where you want the holes (also make sure that you have the holes punched to the exact spec size that neutrix requires (it should be on their web site)).

[Craig Vecchione]

 

If you can make the plate in question portable enough, call around and find an electrical contractor and ask them to punch the holes for you (they should have a greenley punch (probably even a nice hydralic one. I can't imagin them charging you more than a couple of dollars and then you don't have to buy the tools. Just make sure you mark the exact center of where you want the holes (also make sure that you have the holes punched to the exact spec size that neutrix requires (it should be on their web site)).

 

 

Aye, there's the rub.....electrical contractors are very unlikely to have the size he needs. Most contractors carry conduit knockout sizes, which are not the same as the Neutrik "D" sized knockout (15/16"??) usually requires. If they have one of the jumbo Greenlee kits it may have it, but the conduit Slugbuster kits may not. It's worth a call to ask though.

 

The Neutrik "D" config fits a LOT of different connectors, both in their line and in Switchcraft's. Hence my recommdation to invest in the tool.

 

One big advantage of the hole punchers is that they need no reference hole. So if you've got a hole that's gone bad (off center) you can still simply place your tool correctly, tighten and punch, and you've got a correctly located and exactly sized hole.

[W. M. Hellinger]

 

Aye, there's the rub.....electrical contractors

 

Another possible rub could be that the electrical contractor might not quite share the same eye for detail. I've worked with a few that were analogis to a bull (in a china closet)... they did good work, don't get me wrong... but a 4ft. pipe wrench seemed to be one of the more delicate tools they appeared to be "at one" with. Depends on the electrical contractor. Others work I've watched was near watch repair level of detail.

[lonotes]

A toolbox only needs two tools. WD-40 for things that are supposed to move, but don't. And duct tape for things that aren't supposed to move, but do.

[Craig Vecchione]

Or....a hammer and a paintbrush. "If it doesn't move, paint it. If it moves, nail it down, then paint it".

[moody]

Ahh, the Uni bit....that should work, provided you own one. If you don't, then head over to Lowe's or Home Depot, or any hardware store in general.... I own the Greenlee version, Klein also makes the same thing for about 10 bucks more....(but it says Klein on it)....Just make sure you drill a small pilot hole. And use some oil, so you don't burn up your new $45 bit. Trust me these things are handy!

 

PS.

 

I got my dress suit from Lowes, I don't know what they'd say if I tried to buy drill attatchments from them, I'll try the local Bunnings.

[moody]

I suggest that the least expensive, most versitile, reasonably easy to source, and stands a reasonably good chance of producing acceptable results would be the use of a step bit:

 

Done, $25 down and it does a beautiful job. Made a couple of panels this morning for the back of my rack sleeves including one with 12 cutouts, all done and riveted, starting on soldering now.