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Mark,(or anyone who owns,and can confirm)


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The NA3FDM/NA3MDF are designed to go into,say one of your(audiopile) 1-space pre-punched for 8 hole pieces of aluminum,to set up a simple way to connect sends at the fantail end,and returns at the amp rack end when using a snake. Correct? These pieces(parts) screw into the plate,and you simply connect with XLR patch cables. Correct? Though they seem a little pricey,they in effect do away with all soldering,and labor after the point of screwing the part to the plate. Correct? My P.A. was put together to run from stage,and with a little forethought the simplest way to hook it all up was achieved,and successful.I am now ready to get the board,and eqs,and effects out front,and I'm thinking these will simplify hook-up at both ends! Correct?:thu::)

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The NA3FDM/NA3MDF panel jacks

 

If I understand your questions correctly, I believe the answer to all of your questions is: "Yes"... including the part about the jacks being comparatively expensive, but arguably one viable option from the standpoint of those who might be solder challenged.

 

FWIW: These jacks do seem to be popular items (well beyond my guesstimate of demand).

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I am time, patience and solder challenged and I built my rig using those (bought them from Redco) a few years ago. No problems at all. I was able to finish a job in a hour that would have taken me weeks if I had to solder. Those are a great option in my mind. I used 12 and 16 holed blanks and the rig has been rock solid.

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Weird, I guess those would work with panel mount systems. I guess the only wierd thing is you'd be buying an xlr cable whole to use on the inside of the rack. So, if you don't wanna solder then bypass that connection point and wire your tails to the input of the device. Says 10' and coil it up in the rack for transport. My panels always have the input snake plugged into the patch panel. It can be used elsewhere if needed and other cables can be used too.

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I just happened to have a bunch of short (1') XLR patch cables sitting unused. I still remember my tried and failed attempts at soldering XLR, TS and TRS connectors. I admit it, I suck. I am just no good at it and it would take me too long. Those passthrough connectors work great for me. They do stick out quite far so if I were a more accomplished solderer I probably would have went that route.

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I use a fair amount of those connectors at work, for several reasons. They eliminate bare connections on the back of the panel, so nothing can fall in there and short out. Also, the strain relief is much better, because you're not just relying on the solder connections on a panel jack, you've got the strain relief inside the XLR cable connector to do that for you. But the biggest issue for me is servicability. These jacks allow me to quickly and easily remove an entire panel for maintenance, reconfiguring, or relabelling, rather than having a bunch of cable hanging off the back of it, which is often tied to something with screw terminals or some other obnoxious thing. These roughly quadruple the cost of each connection, but they make my life so much easier. I highly recommend them.

 

I will warn you though, a panel with 32 of these on it is much heavier than a panel with standard jacks, and they take up a lot more depth as well.

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I will warn you though, a panel with 32 of these on it is much heavier than a panel with standard jacks, and they take up a lot more depth as well.

 

 

I do not recommend them on a single space aluminum panel, they will cause bending at the ears due to the weight.

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Wow! Thanx all! I believe they have two space (would that be better,Andy) available as well,and I wondered about this. I already have all the patch cables I need,and this route I won't be wasting money(by not using them),and as said above,what will take(me anyway) at least 8-10 hours will effectively become a one to two hour job! In all,I will be looking at a new rack,snake (16 x 8),one of these panels on each end,and cables (20 - 30 footers) to connect the racks when not using the snake,and to hook the snake to when using it ! And then I will be done... ... ??? Lol , yea sure!!!

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2 space would be better. The weight and torque will cause the panel to twist at the ears and along it's length and the bottom of the panel will then stick out maybe 3/16". Looks cheesy.

 

Steel panels will be a little better and 2 space are much more rigid.

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2 space would be better. The weight and torque will cause the panel to twist at the ears and along it's length and the bottom of the panel will then stick out maybe 3/16". Looks cheesy.


Steel panels will be a little better and 2 space are much more rigid.

 

 

I stand corrected.

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I will only be using 8 per piece,and they have a lip on the top and bottom to add strength.Does that make any difference?I only plan to use them for the sends(on the fantail,board end).Maybe I wasn't clear on this in my OP.

 

 

The lip stiffens the in and out more than rotational deformation. It helps somewhat.

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