Members veracohr Posted June 15, 2015 Members Share Posted June 15, 2015 One of four speakers in a 4x12 cabinet isn't working at all, which then takes the other one that is in series with it out of commission. I tested all the speakers and connections individually and I'm left with the conclusion that the wires going from that speaker's binding posts to the coil have broken. The solder points on the binding posts are fine so it must be inside where they connect to the coil. Is it at all possible to get inside a speaker and re-solder these without wrecking the whole thing? I looked at a (completely unrelated) speaker I pulled out of an old TV and decided that one was nigh impossible to get into, but I don't know how a guitar cab speaker might differ in construction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 I'd recommend taking or sending it to a company that does speaker reconing. Chances are good that it can be repaired, but if the break is inside the voice coil, it's going to need to be reconed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted June 16, 2015 Members Share Posted June 16, 2015 I've had a few occasions where the lead between the binding post and wire on the cone became intermittent or broke. The problem is that wire has to be highly flexible to work right. You cant just solder it because it will make it stiff and it will just break again. What I did was use a razor knife to remove the coating on the front side of the cone where the lead connects to the cone wire. Then I de-soldered the wire that connects to the cone. I had to remove the glue carefully on the back as well so I wouldn't rip the cone. I then resoldered a new braded jumper from an old dead speaker between the terminal post and cone and then used silicone to cover and secure the new connection. If the break is between the jumper and coil, you can pretty much kiss it goodbye. You can test this in fact by gently removing the coating on the contact and using an ohm meter. You can also measure between the terminal post and cone contact for continuity. Localizing the area of failure is needed first. then you can decide on a remedy. Another trick for the meter probes is to wind a pointy safety pin on the ends. This will allow you to poke through the cone insulation and get to the contacts below. Changing the jumper is doable, but its not guaranteed to work. if the coil is bad you have to decide if the repair and shipping are less expensive then just getting a new speaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members veracohr Posted June 16, 2015 Author Members Share Posted June 16, 2015 Thanks for the replies. I'm told there's a company here that does reconing, so I'll suggest that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted June 17, 2015 Members Share Posted June 17, 2015 Check their prices. Few re-coners can do the job for less then $100 a speaker. You can likely buy 2 new replacements for that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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