Members nuke_diver Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 Looks like the footswitch is going bad (doesn't always switch properly, sometimes it's noisy). Anyone replaced one of these before? If so what did you use and where did you get it? Looks like it's a 3PDT switch but I haven't opened it up as yet (no time and it isn't dead yet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members big_cat Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 Dano seems to not want to make money. If they'd put their existing pedal line in the type of housings that the rest of the world has deemed best, they'd sell loads more. {censored}ing fundies, dude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RadioSilence Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 it's a 3PDT but it has a spring-loaded cover above it. try taking the cover off (there's 2 screws to undo) and cleaning out the gap under the cover/the sides where the cover slides against the enclosure.i thought it looked like it would be very easy for that bit to get gunked up with crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoboPimp Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 yup, that sounds right. I dont think a regular 3PDT will fit in there so if it goes bad you might have to contact dano for a new one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chris_d Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 yup, that sounds right. I dont think a regular 3PDT will fit in there so if it goes bad you might have to contact dano for a new one I haven't seen one yet in person, but in photos, it appears perhaps to be a normal 3PDT. It is mounted to a PCB, but looks like one of the regular old black(same as the blue in size) ones. Unfortunately all the photos i have seen are hosted at free stompboxes, so whatever. But yeah, looks like it might be a normal switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members THAT4301 Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 It's a nonstandard DPDT but you might cram a standard one in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoboPimp Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 I haven't seen one yet in person, but in photos, it appears perhaps to be a normal 3PDT. It is mounted to a PCB, but looks like one of the regular old black(same as the blue in size) ones. Unfortunately all the photos i have seen are hosted at free stompboxes, so whatever. But yeah, looks like it might be a normal switch. it's a bit smaller than a "regular" blue one, maybe one of the newer PCB mount ones (mammoth electronics sells them as "industrial grade") Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ispunk Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 Sounds like it's time to rehouse the Dano. Then you can use a real switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nuke_diver Posted March 10, 2011 Author Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 I'm not sure it makes a lot of sense for me to do a ton of work on this pedal since I got the TA-15 I don't use it as much as before when it was my main OD (now I used the HT1/2 channel for that more). I take a look and see if it's just dirty, that would be the simplest fix. If I was to rehouse where does one by the components? I should point out that I've not had any issues with switching until now and I've had the pedal for quite a while Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members THAT4301 Posted March 10, 2011 Members Share Posted March 10, 2011 I should point out that I've not had any issues with switching until now and I've had the pedal for quite a while they wear out when they wear out, footswitches are the least reliable part that anybody uses pretty much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chrisjnyc Posted March 11, 2011 Members Share Posted March 11, 2011 Just de-solder the switch from the PCB, and you can throw in a new one. I ended up drilling a hole in the top to make it easier to turn onoff. The dano switch cover is a pain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members THAT4301 Posted March 11, 2011 Members Share Posted March 11, 2011 Just de-solder the switch from the PCB, "just" desolder a footswitch from a pcb? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nuke_diver Posted March 11, 2011 Author Members Share Posted March 11, 2011 So any old 3PDT will do? Like this one? 3PDT Footswitch I'm guessing this isn't something I'm likely to find anywhere but through an online parts supplier? For ~$4 I'd rather just get it locally to make sure it will fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members richey888 Posted March 11, 2011 Members Share Posted March 11, 2011 Don't have any issues (mechanical that is) other than the knob and jack placement for mine....I wonder how difficult this is to rehouse. Does anyone know someone I could pay a reasonable price to have it done? I finally got organized and bought a Gator pedalboard and would love to have the CC Fuzz and TOD in a regular enclosure.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members timmat Posted March 12, 2011 Members Share Posted March 12, 2011 Good timing on this thread because..... The switch went out on my Cool Cat Metal. Dano sent me a replacement switch. At first glance, they looked the same, so I marked the wires and soldered in the new switch exactly as the old one was wired up. But, it didn't work (led illuminated, but got a buzzing sound). I confirmed good connections with my meter. Then, upon closer review, the circuit printed on the top of the new switch is totally different than the old one. Dano will not give me a schematic, but did confirm the early pedals had a different switch, which is no longer provided. What next? I'm no pro at this...good enough to follow directions and do basic soldering, but that's about it. Worth an experiment on a $30 pedal. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RadioSilence Posted March 12, 2011 Members Share Posted March 12, 2011 Good timing on this thread because.....The switch went out on my Cool Cat Metal. Dano sent me a replacement switch. At first glance, they looked the same, so I marked the wires and soldered in the new switch exactly as the old one was wired up. But, it didn't work (led illuminated, but got a buzzing sound). I confirmed good connections with my meter.Then, upon closer review, the circuit printed on the top of the new switch is totally different than the old one. Dano will not give me a schematic, but did confirm the early pedals had a different switch, which is no longer provided.What next?I'm no pro at this...good enough to follow directions and do basic soldering, but that's about it. Worth an experiment on a $30 pedal.Thanks. do you still have the old switch/circuit board? just follow the traces on the board from each lug on the switch to see which wire it attaches to, and where that wire goes. then wire in the new switch/board to the appropriate places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members timmat Posted March 12, 2011 Members Share Posted March 12, 2011 do you still have the old switch/circuit board?just follow the traces on the board from each lug on the switch to see which wire it attaches to, and where that wire goes. then wire in the new switch/board to the appropriate places. But here's where I'm having problems...the traces on the old switch are a totally different pattern than the new one they sent. The lug configuration is the same, so I initially soldered the same wire to the exact same lug position on the new switch. But, because the circuit pattern is different (even though the posts are the same pattern), it doesn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members THAT4301 Posted March 12, 2011 Members Share Posted March 12, 2011 are you soldering the individual wires or is there a connector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members timmat Posted March 13, 2011 Members Share Posted March 13, 2011 are you soldering the individual wires or is there a connector? Individual wires. Apparently, some of the older cool cat pedals, like my Metal pedal, had individual wires soldered directly to the lugs on the switch. Some others run the wires into connectors on either side of the switch. Because my only point of reference was my older Metal pedal's wiring configuration, I just soldered the individual wires to the exact same lug position on the new switch. This did not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members THAT4301 Posted March 13, 2011 Members Share Posted March 13, 2011 yup, you'll have to do it with a multimeter then find which join to input jack, output jack, board connections and ground, and then draw a 'map' of how the switch is connected on its board and compare it to standard switching diagrams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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