Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 I'm thinking of adding another tube so i can do a fenderish clean channel and a 4 gain stage build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 . . . and I've edited my post: I wouldn't use more than 70mA for a pair of those chinese 6L6s, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarbilly74 Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 @ guitarbilly: be careful, lethal voltages - but I guess that you know that. Thanks man, I just did it and it sounds epic. And I didn't even die in the process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 drop in KT88s. Somebody should check if the power transformer a) gets hot after a while b) the supply voltages for the heaters (3.15 - 0 - 3.15) go down I'm asking because a 6L6GC eats 0.9A/tube - a KT88 1.6A - thats 0.7x4=2.8A more sucked off the power transformer . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 I've put 6550 inside and will see what happens heat- and voltage-wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Shask Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Do you leave any amp alone I think these amps look like a cool, affordable mod platform. I could see these kind of "taking over" many people who would like to do the SLOCLONE, but don't want to start from nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 I've also modded my Einstein and Herbert, for me thats a kind of sport, you know Exactly - for this kind of money I cannot even buy all the parts for a Clone . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members O'Rourke Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 How'd you do your depth mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members FastRedPonyCar Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 IMO the clean channel is clean as can be on my HDM. It's not as clean as that of my renegade but it's still epic loud before it starts to break up if the gain/volume are set right. I was impressed. I need to go back and double check that the standard JCA100 can do this. All the preamp tubes are ruby HG's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Of course it is clean with the gainpot between 1 and 3, Drew. But if you want to have a wider spectrum of this channel, the little (SLO based) mod is useful, not a "must". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members t1r2u3s4t Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 so the clean/crunch mod switches between the values of 39k(crunch) and 68k(clean) for the resistor that goes to ground (R7 in the SLO100 schematic) right after the channel switch? I have the 50H, would the bias current value of 70mA be the same for 6L6? Oh congrats on the new amp and thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members FastRedPonyCar Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Of course it is clean with the gainpot between 1 and 3, Drew. But if you want to have a wider spectrum of this channel, the little (SLO based) mod is useful, not a "must". what do you mean by wider spectrum? like more control of when the breakup in the sound occurs? I typically run the actual volume level of the clean channel much higher than that of the lead channel and then use the preamp gain knob on the clean channel to bring the volume up. I actually do the exact opposite of this on my Titan and it has the same SLO layout. :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ke2 Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Imagine that when we started talking to each other, you still hadn`t built a kit?Now you`re modding amps before you take off your shoes after you come home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 so the clean/crunch mod switches between the values of 39k(crunch) and 68k(clean) for the resistor that goes to ground (R7 in the SLO100 schematic) right after the channel switch?I have the 50H, would the bias current value of 70mA be the same for 6L6?Oh congrats on the new amp and thanks in advance! 1) there's no such switch in the 50H/100H, this mod switches from the R which is in front of the gainpot thru 68k to ground (the gainpot) - that reduces the amount of signal going further thru the amp and cleans it up 2) NO! 35mA - in a 50s amp each side of the output transformer is connecetd to just one tube, so with the shunt method (as described above) you are reading the idle current of ONE tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Imagine that when we started talking to each other, you still hadn`t built a kit? Now you`re modding amps before you take off your shoes after you come home Nice words to tell me that I'm nuts - I am Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 what do you mean by wider spectrum? like more control of when the breakup in the sound occurs? / Yes. I know what you mean about the different levels - I'm the opposite, gain often (both channels) 6-8 and then I adjust with the volume pots. I'm a typical three channel amp user, I never (except I had to) used single channel amps, worked with the volume pot or pedals (actually I dislike pedals except channel switches ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ke2 Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 I can picture it Olaf coming home, kisses his wife and kids, taking off one of the jacket sleeves, and dive into it with steaming soldering iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 As I've said above, its my "sport", Knut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members t1r2u3s4t Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Ahh I see, your mod replicates that switch by adding a 68k draining to ground just in front of the clean gain pot (500k pot at the gate of V1A)Good thing I double check about the current value, thanks very much!Can't wait to see the vid...1) there's no such switch in the 50H/100H, this mod switches from the R which is in front of the gainpot thru 68k to ground (the gainpot) - that reduces the amount of signal going further thru the amp and cleans it up 2) NO! 35mA - in a 50s amp each side of the output transformer is connecetd to just one tube, so with the shunt method (as described above) you are reading the idle current of ONE tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Have a look at schematic heaven, there are schems of the Hotrod (=JCA) and the SLO, the SLO has it like this: first coupling cap (22nF) into 2 resistors, one in front of each gainpot - with the manual switch(s) on the SLO the signal can be put thru another 470k in series and a 39k to ground (the second - bright - adds a 470pF cap to it if needed. The HR is different: after the coupling cap straight thru one resistor (1M if I remember correctly) into the gainpot. So I've just used a "poor man's version of a " Soldano feature into one of Soldano's (JCA) design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 as in this clone . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members t1r2u3s4t Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 wow, that's KLEEENas in this clone . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Duesentrieb Posted September 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Not mine I'm building rat's nests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members t1r2u3s4t Posted September 9, 2010 Members Share Posted September 9, 2010 Gotcha, on the SLO100 they split the 1k into 2 470k to accomodate the bright switch.How about the depth mod, can I find the schematic somewhere?Thanks,MPS: Tone is in the rat's poop Have a look at schematic heaven, there are schems of the Hotrod (=JCA) and the SLO, the SLO has it like this: first coupling cap (22nF) into 2 resistors, one in front of each gainpot - with the manual switch(s) on the SLO the signal can be put thru another 470k in series and a 39k to ground (the second - bright - adds a 470pF cap to it if needed. The HR is different: after the coupling cap straight thru one resistor (1M if I remember correctly) into the gainpot. So I've just used a "poor man's version of a " Soldano feature into one of Soldano's (JCA) design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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