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marshall is dead...need some advice


mekke

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Does the amp show power apart from the tubes (i.e., power switch lights up, channel select lights on)? If not, your primary fuse would be the first place I'd check - it'll likely be on the back panel, and is labeled Main Fuse. If you pull the fuse (make sure your amp is unplugged from the wall), you may see the filament is broken. If so, replace it with a new 3A fuse. If the amp is powering on, but the tubes aren't lighting, that would sound like the heater circuit isn't working, in which case it might be a broken solder joint.

 

For the record, if you're running 2 16 ohm cabinets off of the amp, it should be set to 8 ohms at the head. I doubt that that would be the initial culprit however.

 

Edit: saw that you're in Sweden. The 3A fuse is for 120v power. If you're running 220/240, I think it's 6A. They can likely be found at a hardware store - bring the original with you to match size.

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thanks...can fuses be bough in any hardware store or special ones are needed?

 

 

I've blown fuses on many occasions..Just check them and see if they look blown/burnt.

 

You can get replacement fuses at any electronics store here in the states....Try Radio Shack if you have those in your country.

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I've blown fuses on many occasions..Just check them and see if they look blown/burnt.


You can get replacement fuses at any electronics store here in the states....Try Radio Shack if you have those in your country.

 

 

thanks dude...now, to the embaassing question...where the bloody hell are they located...got a link or some kind words to lead me find

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I had a DSL. So I am just guessing. But they should have little plastic sockets right on the back of the amp by the plug side. There should be two of them. They are round and plastic...You should just be able to screw them out with one turn. Most likely would be the big (primary) fuse over the smaller one. Just look at them. If one of them is bad they will look burnt or broken somehow. Fuses are really cheap. Hope it solves the problem. If its not the fuse take it to a tech.

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I would read the manual...specifically how those output load jacks are configured. Are any of the taps in parallel?? (ie dividing your overall impedance with multiple cabs connected?)

How did you have your cabs wired up? Both from the head? extention cab jack from one cab to the other?

If those output taps are in parallel, and you had two 16 ohm cabs connected, you may have actually had an 8 ohm overall impedance and not 16...this is potentially bad.

I know you said one of the cabs was unplugged, but just trying to provide some additional possibilities.

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^^^

With the cabs and settings you described - you were actually running it CORRECTLY with one cab unplugged.

With both plugged in you should have had the impedance on the amp set at 8 ohms.

 

What was happening WHILE the plug was workings itself out though, is anybodies guess.

That could have presented a dead short to the amp.

 

If new fuses don't fix it - take it to a tech.

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Does the amp show power apart from the tubes (i.e., power switch lights up, channel select lights on)? If not, your primary fuse would be the first place I'd check - it'll likely be on the back panel, and is labeled Main Fuse. If you pull the fuse (make sure your amp is unplugged from the wall), you may see the filament is broken. If so, replace it with a new 3A fuse. If the amp is powering on, but the tubes aren't lighting, that would sound like the heater circuit isn't working, in which case it might be a broken solder joint.


For the record, if you're running 2 16 ohm cabinets off of the amp, it should be set to 8 ohms at the head. I doubt that that would be the initial culprit however.


Edit: saw that you're in Sweden. The 3A fuse is for 120v power. If you're running 220/240, I think it's 6A. They can likely be found at a hardware store - bring the original with you to match size.

 

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this in such detailed way. Cheers, Matteo

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^^^

With the cabs and settings you described - you were actually running it CORRECTLY with one cab unplugged.

With both plugged in you should have had the impedance on the amp set at 8 ohms.


What was happening WHILE the plug was workings itself out though, is anybodies guess.

That could have presented a dead short to the amp.


If new fuses don't fix it - take it to a tech.

 

 

Today 09:10 AM #15

mekke

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thanks man...I am afraid I have {censored}ed up with the impedance...

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Yeah, the amp wasn't happy with that load. Marshall 2x12s are 8 ohms mono. They are 16 ohm PER SIDE if you run it in stereo. So you were running one 16 ohm cab and one 8 ohm cab out of the 16 ohm tap on the head = not gonna last long, especially since Marshalls are pretty picky when it comes to impedances.

 

Plus the fact that one speaker cable was just sitting there not plugged into a cab didn't help matters. I'd check the Mains fuse first; if the fuse is ok then there's likely some serious damage.

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...wanna thank you all for taking the time to bother about my crap...
After a visit with mr Tech this were the findings: fuses were alrite, transformer was alrite, tubes are in shape...it was one little tiny contact that went banana, so luckily my mistake was repaired with a fair 50 EUR note.

Wishing you all a great day folks. Thanks again! Matteo

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